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Exh. Valve Cleaning Update!!

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When you say tubes, are you referring to the hoses coming from the exh. valves to the solenoid ? If so, it's possible to have some oil residue in them as they are exposed to gases below the bellows.
 
High Velocity said:
When you say tubes, are you referring to the hoses coming from the exh. valves to the solenoid ? If so, it's possible to have some oil residue in them as they are exposed to gases below the bellows.
Click to expand...

there will be some oily stuff in the hoses (tubes) as the pressure hole dealie in the cylinder allows oil/fuel/combustion gases to travel into the valve stuff and then out the hoses. This is what causes the spooge to accumulate in the engine compartment. If you drive WOT all the time, no oily stuff moves through the hoses as the valve/solenoid is closed. At part throttle when the solenoid gizmo is open is when exhaust stuff flows through the hoses.

Oily stuff coing out the top of the valve cover means the bellows is kaputt. Oily stuff all over and exhaust noise from under the hood means the valve attach bolt has unscrewed and the $5 gasket is fubarred.
 
Rick! said:
there will be some oily stuff in the hoses (tubes) as the pressure hole dealie in the cylinder allows oil/fuel/combustion gases to travel into the valve stuff and then out the hoses. This is what causes the spooge to accumulate in the engine compartment. If you drive WOT all the time, no oily stuff moves through the hoses as the valve/solenoid is closed. At part throttle when the solenoid gizmo is open is when exhaust stuff flows through the hoses.

Oily stuff coing out the top of the valve cover means the bellows is kaputt. Oily stuff all over and exhaust noise from under the hood means the valve attach bolt has unscrewed and the $5 gasket is fubarred.
Click to expand...

I was in a hurry when I posted the question, by tubes I mean hoses and the tee, the oil was under the bellows not on the out side, just did not expect to find every thing to be dry, thought it would be more like my 09 Dragon glad to see its not, it did make me wounder if the solenoid was working or not but if no one else is finding a mess guess every thing is OK, when we ride we don't mess around much, hit it hard and get to the play areas, must be why it is staying so clean. Thanks to every one.
 
I just picked up a used pro. Seems to run fine, except from 5300 to 6000 ish rpm, it sounds like the carbs arent sync-ed . I know its efi, but that is the best way I can describe it. I pulled the exhaust valves, and they didnt have much carbon built up, just a little oily. From around 6000-6300 she cleans up and runs great. I'm just trying to get the mid range cleaned up. Any suggestions. Again I thought it was the valves not opening at the same time and rate, so thats why im trying to post this here. Any suggestions helpful.
 
trestlecreek said:
I just picked up a used pro. Seems to run fine, except from 5300 to 6000 ish rpm, it sounds like the carbs arent sync-ed . I know its efi, but that is the best way I can describe it. I pulled the exhaust valves, and they didnt have much carbon built up, just a little oily. From around 6000-6300 she cleans up and runs great. I'm just trying to get the mid range cleaned up. Any suggestions. Again I thought it was the valves not opening at the same time and rate, so thats why im trying to post this here. Any suggestions helpful.
Click to expand...

Oil fouled plugs - try a fresh set and should clean up, did with mine.

Have FUN!

G
 
Part####################'s

xc6rider said:
Are the exhaust valve gaskets the same as the IQ gaskets??

I'm assuming they are.
Click to expand...

YES Them Same..

Parts Unlimited Part #### Gasket 0934-0854

Bellow ## 0926-0302

Gaskets Come as a "set" of two. bellows Each!

Bellow is Orange "New" Ones ;)

New Gasket, Every time!!! Bellow Every other!


My .o2~
 
Oil

Just curious, you guys that are cleaning your valves, what oil are u running in your sled? If theyre really that dirty maybe you ought to look into a different oil. They shouldn't be like that in that many miles. Just my .02.
 
I'd rather clean valves too much than catch them too late and have carbon baked on! Nothing worse than cleaning rock hard crap off the valves.

Also a good way to keep an eye on the pistons etc...

I am leaning heavily towards going back to mineral oil over synthetic anyways.
 
Every 500 Miles.. Is not over Kill!

It is pretty easy work after the first time.


I want the POWER!!

And Snap of Clean Valves ;)
 
I cleaned my valves also. Therefore I know there free. So my ? is after cleaning, I warmed it up and tried to watch through the plastic cap hole as I ran some R's, to see if the valves were opening up, never really seen them move. On the Doo's you can hit 7000RPM and watch them open. Has anybody tried this on there Pro and made them open while running on your stand??----------Thanks
 
Hmm TTT

:eek:The stand test is really only for .. Free the ICE:confused: Track Alignment. And to see if it Runs!

Other then That.. I see if it runs on Snow.. And With a Load! AKA A Person Riding it.. Spinning out of the trailer doesn't count:face-icon-small-dis


:focus:
 
Last edited:
With the problems I posted earlier in this thread, I'm changing springs before this season. I emailed Dyno Tech, ( I'm a paid subscriber ) and they said to be careful if you go with too light of a spring. This may create a lean condition if you back out of the throttle real fast.... Apparently the spring may allow too much flow when the fuel is cutting off... lean condition.... It took me a while to wrap my thoughts around that. So i'm going with the stock springs. I know SLP offers several different springs. I wonder, as mentioned earlier in this thread, if you take those hoses and plug them, if this creates more pressure and opens the valves earlier...?...
Keep us informed as to which springs you go with, very interesting !
 
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