excess oil in pipe

[Toad face killah]

I just picked up my '10Assault from the dealer after having some work done on it. When I opened up the hood there was oil all over my SLP can. The mechanic cleaned it off and blew it off like it was nothing. Getting ready to go ride tomorrow, I took my pipe off to check it out. The Y-pipe was oozing oil. oil inside the pipe. Not a ton of oil but enough to make it leak between my pipe and can when its running. Should I be concerned? Is there something stuck open to allow oil to keep flowing? I guess too much oil is better for my motor then not enough but want to make sure. I also dont want to have oil all over in my engine compartment or have to clean off my can every time I open the hood. Thanks for your help

 

[MORSNO]

The black oil soot could be from a few things...

- Check your oil pump cable and make sure it is connected. If disconnected it will go to full oil.

- What did the shop work on? If they pulled your pipe, they may not have resealed it at the donut between the Y and pipe well, so the excess oil blew out. The donut inside the pipe seals with carbon/high temp sealant and when taken apart you lost that seal. It should normally seal back up after a day of riding and getting hot. Mine has done this after sitting all summer and resealed after getting hot.

- If this is the first time running this season, you may have had a pool of oil that collected in the crank over the summer and firing it up has caused all of the excess oil to blow out the exhaust.

- Check your exhaust valve ports (there is a small hole between the cylinder and bellows) and make sure they are not plugged and not allowing the oily soot to drain out through the drain line.

I'm sure there are other things, but this should get you started in the right direction.

 

[SaskRMK]

^great answer
Here is a link to a picture of the oil pump calibration marks. The oil pump is at the back of the block and you will need to remove the airbox and move the throttle bodies in order to get your hands/mirror back there to adjust the jam nuts. You calibration marks may looks slightly different(they do on my 2009)

good luck!

 

[SaskRMK]

sorry double post

 

[PaulAnd]

If the cable breaks on the cfi4 the pump goes full off... No oil pumped... Engine goes boom. I just replaced my oil pump for excessive oil use at a turned down setting... 1 tank of oil to 1 tank of fuel, my exhaust is full of oil and it's leaking all over everything. Check your oil use on the Assault. I usually seal up my exhaust with high temp silicone for powder reasons, I haven't sealed it again yet and it's blowing oil all over at the y pipe area

 

[SaskRMK]

the oil pump does not turn off. If the cable breaks the pump goes to max so your engine doesnt fail. A friend had his stretch out and it was oiling so heavily it would barely run at less than 3/4 throttle. This was a cfi4 900

 

[PaulAnd]

I could be wrong... when you pull the throttle.. pump arm goes counter clockwise, you would think that would mean more oil when on the throttle? The pumps normal state is clockwise till it stops, also when I pulled the pump arm/counter clockwise with a coat hanger to bleed it, it got real smokey. I hope someone could clarify this for me so don't adjust it the wrong way once I have a base line

 

[PaulAnd]

Sorry about hijack

 

[PaulAnd]

scored cam/binding, normal Idle setting, full open above 1/2 throttle full open cable-off
unfortunately the arm/cam bound before hitting full open with the cable off, the spring was not able to overcome the binding, Recap: tightening cable increases oil flow, loosening cable less oil flow, still consuming lots of oil.. then replace pump.
Sorry again for hijack.

 

[Toad face killah]

Ok im having some serious troubles here. I have been trying to figure out my oil problems but no luck. I have double checked that my oil pump is hooked up. Although I have not gotten in deep enough to double check the oil pumps settings. My sled is still losing oil through the cylinoid at the end of the line from the power valves. and my plugs are still dark and way too rich. and my sled bogs a tiny little bit at low rpms. Not sure why?? today I took off my power valves and found that spring next to the bellows is broken up 3/4 of the way up. So I think that valve is sticking open a little bit. I know I gotta fix the spring, but could something so minor be the culpret for my excess oil and bogging at low rpms? or should I be digging in deeper to check my oil pump settings?

My dealer is telling me its because im running Redline Synthetic motor oil. But i dont believe that is the issue. I know too many people that run just fine with it and it has done me great for 5+ years.

My dealer also told me to double check the TPS connection to make sure it is correct and dry because that could be part of my bog/shutoff as I pull up to a stop. But I feel that im plain just getting too much oil and thats giving me the issues.

Thanks for any help!!!

 

[SaskRMK]

If your oil pump was not hooked up it would grenade your motor VERY fast. Red line is not the issue. if you have not checked your pumped settings your just wasting your time man it only takes 15 minutes to check. Ensure your pump is set properly and replace your exhaust valve spring and go from there

good luck!

 

[trench]

my 7 does the same thing after sitting all summer .
The main thing is take it out and run it hard for a couple hrs.

They will leak oil when y pipe bolts and gaskets are loose , exhaust power valve gaskets and bolts , and lastly y pipe dounut not sitting proper from removal of pipe. As age sets in the y pipe dounut wears in and now needs to sit in that position or will leak untill it rewears in again.

Like others have said check exhaust bellows, mine tear atleast one every year.

 

[PaulAnd]

Ok im having some serious troubles here. I have been trying to figure out my oil problems but no luck. I have double checked that my oil pump is hooked up. Although I have not gotten in deep enough to double check the oil pumps settings. My sled is still losing oil through the cylinoid at the end of the line from the power valves. and my plugs are still dark and way too rich. and my sled bogs a tiny little bit at low rpms. Not sure why?? today I took off my power valves and found that spring next to the bellows is broken up 3/4 of the way up. So I think that valve is sticking open a little bit. I know I gotta fix the spring, but could something so minor be the culpret for my excess oil and bogging at low rpms? or should I be digging in deeper to check my oil pump settings?

My dealer is telling me its because im running Redline Synthetic motor oil. But i dont believe that is the issue. I know too many people that run just fine with it and it has done me great for 5+ years.

My dealer also told me to double check the TPS connection to make sure it is correct and dry because that could be part of my bog/shutoff as I pull up to a stop. But I feel that im plain just getting too much oil and thats giving me the issues.

Thanks for any help!!!

A broken ves spring will cause the valve to not close completely, open too quickly, causing a bog off the line, change your springs/pair, they do rust and break. What is your oil consumption ratio?? Oil coming out of exhaust and ves vent is normal especially after sitting long periods. Find out your oil consumption ratio anything more than 38 to 1 is too much IMO

 

[Toad face killah]

Thanks guys!!!! I replaced the power valve spring as well as gave the power valves a good cleaning. No oil problems. Everything seems to be good

 

[PaulAnd]

Long live the assaults!!