Engine Oil

[PistonBroke]

I have had mine apart, and can verify what Roest is saying. The starter drives a reduction gear that in turn will crank the motor via this clutch. I guess the best way to describe it is a "one-way" clutch.

This device grips a smooth sleeve when turned in one direction, and freewheels as soon as the engine starts. It is most definitely bathed in oil.

I like this discussion, keep it going since I have an oil change to do very soon!
I would also like to hear what guys are doing for "special procedures" on oil changes.

I have used Yamalube, Motul 0-something, and last year used Mobil-1 0-40 full synthetic, all with good results. None of these oils has caused any trouble with the starting system.

Cheers gents,

PB

 

[Mountaintech]

Not trying to argue, just trying to understand.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=81571&highlight=wet+clutch+starter

I understand what you're saying. Alot of people mix up the clutch we're talking about with the multi disc wet drive clutch found in bikes and quads. Pistonbroke explains it well and if you ever have the chance to see one of these engines apart you will see immediately how it functions. It took seeing it apart on my RX1 years ago for it to make sense.

 

[PistonBroke]

Here's a couple diagrams of the two assemblies.

Item #4 in this diagram is the "one-way clutch" in question. It grips the backside of item #1 which is the reducer gear.

 

[FBM]

Thanks

 

[Scott1]

Mobil1 Synthetic 5w30 is my choice.

 

[autopro]

Amsoil 0-40 is what I have been using with good results.
Autopro

 

[justinkredible56]

That's a judgement call on your part but I would pull it and go 0W-30 Yamalube and have piece of mind. Keep in mind that your motor is designed and tested to run best with 0W-30. If you are using a 10W you may not be getting the cold start protection you need in a sled motor. If that oil is to thick it may not be coating everything properly at start up. Not good for rod bearings or journal bearings. If you get ring blow by and lose compression etc it's just one less thing to look at as a culprit if you have the proper oil in her.

Thanks for the info I pulled the 10w and went with 0w-40 amsoil...I feel a lot better about it.

 

[Coldfinger]

You may also consider Shell/Rotella t-6 synthetic 5w40 because it is rated JASO-MA for motorcycles. Lots of bike guys are going this route.

Regarding the "energy conserving" starburst symbols they say to avoid - these oils contain more Moly, very slippery and could cause problems in theory, though some of you seem to be running it without issue.

I don't know what temp ranges and oil weights are in the owners manual, but I would try to stay within their guidelines.

 

[07gbapex01]

I have been using Amsoil 10- 40 for three seasons in my supercharged Apex with good results

 

[HIDY]

4000 boosted miles with Mobil1 Synthetic 5w30.

Mobil1 Synthetic 5w30 Thats why u have 4000 boosted miles. Smart man

 

[summitboy]

I used to run Yamalube 0-30. I now use Mobil1 0-40 Synthetic. It's cheap and works well. I will most likely start using their 5-30 Mobil1. My sled always comes out of a warm trailer.

Oil is smoke and mirrors. If they can make you believe it's special than they can make you pay 20 bucks a liter ! All for a warm fuzzy feeling inside LOL. Just my opinion of course !