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Electricity for pumps, etc on M sleds

Tonysnoo

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Another post got me to thinking about putting this together. It's gonna be a long read, but lectricity can't be splained in a few words...LOL

There seems to be lots of questions about how much power is available on a sled....primarily M sleds.

Most sleds have a decent amount of power typically 200 watts or more. This means, that there is over 15 amps of current available at 10-13 volts. Warmers and lights can use up 1/2 of that so there can still be 7-10amps left over for other goodies.

Most of the time we need DC power to run pumps and guages and controllers....etc. DC power is like what is available from an automotive system. This isn't always available on a snowmobile, but there are ways to get it. Stators, magnetos, alternators all make AC power. This power needs to be made into DC to use most automotive components.(Auto alternators change AC to DC internally).

05, 06 (M6 and M7) have a lot of AC power for hand warmers and lights. This power comes from one winding in the stator. It is regulated down (10-12 volts) for use in the light/heat circuits. A tiny bit is rectified(turned to DC) for use by the APV servo motor. Another winding in the stator supplys power for the fuel pump. It is turned to DC There is only enough amperage from this winding for the stock(small) fuel pump.

The typical way to get DC power to run big fuel pumps and other devices is to wire a bridge rectifier into the lighting circuit. From this rectifier, DC powered devices can be run at almost the full output of the lighting coil(minus the heaters and lights). There is an issue with a stock ground wire so you can't ground anything that is in the DC circuit without having a gremlin or two show up. Too much to explain here.

07, 08 (M8 and M1000) have DC circuits from the CCU to power the mechanical reverse. That means all your work is done. Just hook up any aux equipment to the output of the CCU and your off to the races.

09 (M8 and M1000) went back to the old AC system. So now there are a few choices. The old bridge rectifier option is available just like the M7. The second, a savy tuner could use an earlier model CCU instead of the Reg/Rect assembly and run all the DC power from it.

Please keep in mind, this is the condensed version. If you are going to modify your sled's wiring, enlist some help from someone who is used to chasing electrons around a circuit. Always use a meter to confirm voltage and continuity of curcuits, and be wary of your grounding.

There are lots of folks on here who have the electrical thing figured out so please add to this as questions arise.

Hope this helps bring a very basic understanding of electrons and snow...LOL
 
That's a great summary. We stopped utilizing that Cat part when Boondocker created that new fuel upgrade circuit, finally a solution to all the oversize pump and regulator rectifier shenanigans... No more convoluted wiring or hard starting just simpler, cheaper and works better. Thanks BD
 
That's a great summary. We stopped utilizing that Cat part when Boondocker created that new fuel upgrade circuit, finally a solution to all the oversize pump and regulator rectifier shenanigans... No more convoluted wiring or hard starting just simpler, cheaper and works better. Thanks BD
Does this mean there is a Boondocker solution to the M7 voltage problems?
 
Does this mean there is a Boondocker solution to the M7 voltage problems?

From what I have measured there is no lack of power on the M7 lighting circuit. I'm going to try the M8 CCU setup on my M7/1000 this year. I should know for sure in a month if it will work. I think it should be just fine. Has anyone out there tried it yet?

The M7 or M8 both have limited power in the fuel pump circuit. It will not run the big pumps. It might start the big pump,... but then the lighting circuit(recitfied) will have to be used to run it. Maybe boondocker figured out a way to combine the circuit outputs to get the pump started and keep it running without switchover circuits.

I'd like to hear more about this new scheme. Good on them for figuring something out.
 
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That is exactly right, Boondocker engineers designed a very clever circuit that utilizes the stock pump circuit and marries the lighting coil to it. Aside from this the new circuit increases the stock fuel pump output capacity to far more than the bigger pumps output running on lighting along. This result is function of increased voltage and thus eliminates the need for the larger pump.
 
That is exactly right, Boondocker engineers designed a very clever circuit that utilizes the stock pump circuit and marries the lighting coil to it. Aside from this the new circuit increases the stock fuel pump output capacity to far more than the bigger pumps output running on lighting along. This result is function of increased voltage and thus eliminates the need for the larger pump.

Hmmmmmm.........very cool! Never thought of increasing the voltage. Very ingenious! Kudos to BD
 
That is exactly right, Boondocker engineers designed a very clever circuit that utilizes the stock pump circuit and marries the lighting coil to it. Aside from this the new circuit increases the stock fuel pump output capacity to far more than the bigger pumps output running on lighting along. This result is function of increased voltage and thus eliminates the need for the larger pump.

Does this create any longevity issues for the stock pump that you're aware of?
 
we have done extensive testing and pump durability was un-effected. BD engineers evidently worked with the pump manufacturer to determine appropriate voltage parameters and rpm tolerance levels. The rate of voltage increase is related to engine RPM. There are apparently some advantages to higher pump rpms possibly effecting greater longevity due to cooler running temps, though I have no technical basis for that assertion.
 
Does this create any longevity issues for the stock pump that you're aware of?

BD has been running this setup for a couple years now and it was sold last year in their 1000 and RG M8 kits with no failures that I've heard about. I put about 1600 miles on mine last season with no issues.
 
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