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EGR sensor

An EGR makes the gas recirculate so that the emmissions are not as bad (as if they were not recirculated). Most diesel trucks have one or even two EGR's. EGT's are used to measure exhaust gas usually at the exhaust manifold. This is a good way to determine if the sled is running too lean or hot and is the best warning you have before burndown. IMO, all sleds should come with them, but they don't.
 
The Polaris sensor in the big part of the pipe is an EGT sensor. It feeds input to the ECU.

Pretty much all cars these days have an EGR valve of some sort.
 
The Polaris sensor in the big part of the pipe is an EGT sensor. It feeds input to the ECU.

Pretty much all cars these days have an EGR valve of some sort.

The stock pipe sensor is not adjustable nor does it give you feedback on exhaust gas temps. It just blinks 5 times when the $hit hits the fan.
 
The stock pipe sensor is not adjustable nor does it give you feedback on exhaust gas temps. It just blinks 5 times when the $hit hits the fan.
I never said it did. I just said the stock sensor was there to give the ECU feedback.

The blinking it does means the sensor is bad, not that your temps are out of whack.

The average rider/consumer wouldn't use a real EGT sensor/guage unless you are modding there is not much need for one. If you keep the stock head, pipe and fueling an EGT won't do anything.
 
If you keep the stock head, pipe and fueling an EGT won't do anything.

I added EGT's when I boosted. That said, on my 08 D8 I can watch the EGT's and see the mid range lean spot that takes down some of the 800 cfi's. On my sled even with aftermarket fuel control (Boondockers) I can see temps exceed 1350 if I hold the rpm's in the 6800 - 7300 range or so.

All I have to do to bring down temps is wick the throttle a time or two and/or vary the rpm range. I think egt's on a stock sled would still allow the rider to spot and ride around the potential lean spot that some of these sleds seem to suffer from. Some seem to think this condition can be increased on hard pulls after the fuel in the tank drops below 1/2. If that is true you would see that on egt's as well. Just a thought. EW
 
I added EGT's when I boosted. That said, on my 08 D8 I can watch the EGT's and see the mid range lean spot that takes down some of the 800 cfi's. On my sled even with aftermarket fuel control (Boondockers) I can see temps exceed 1350 if I hold the rpm's in the 6800 - 7300 range or so.

All I have to do to bring down temps is wick the throttle a time or two and/or vary the rpm range. I think egt's on a stock sled would still allow the rider to spot and ride around the potential lean spot that some of these sleds seem to suffer from. Some seem to think this condition can be increased on hard pulls after the fuel in the tank drops below 1/2. If that is true you would see that on egt's as well. Just a thought. EW


Good info on that post! I just think the "average" (non-turbo, no major mods) user won't use an EGT guage. Most people leave their guages on the speedo setting. I rarely use that, usually RPMS and temp (water).

Does your EGT guage have an idiot light that kicks on if you go over a set point? I would just be worried that you don't notice until it is too late. I have an EGT setup on my car, and it is easy to see but I don't have snow coming over all my guages all the time. LOL

What do you consider max EGT temps on your D8?

It seems that there is no one magic number. I have read that you should really tune to piston wash and plug color and stick with that number.
 
I run the Koso's that do have a blue or red (your choice) idiot light that flashes at a user set temp. My number is 1350 per Boondocker. Your right that after you have watched the gauges a trip or two you can ride by feel and know what the sled is doing. I just think it would wake people up a bunch to see how warm the temps got while they were cruising down the trail looking for game tracks or chutes to climb. You would think the melt down risk would be at the top of a hard pull in deep pow, but on my buggy the trail ride in would be the killer if I didn't know.

I have gone over 1350 several times on pulls or deep grinds before. I would not want to camp over that range, but I do have a good Snap-On bore scope and look at what the wash is doing (I may not understand all I know about wash) and I have had no problems with the same pistons for 1 1/2 seasons boosted. Doesn't take much throttle variation/comtrol to keep out of trouble, atleast temp wise. lol. EW
 
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