effects of re-locating front skid shock
- Thread starter pj8556
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Ron
ACCOUNT CLOSED
The shock has more leverage upright, so exerts more pressure. Lay down it gives a softer ride, lets the nose down easier. Almost everyone around here keeps theirs in the upright position for mountain riding, deep snow. Carl's Cycle says up for snow, down for softer ride.
But some swear their sleds work better in the snow laying down.
But some swear their sleds work better in the snow laying down.
Myself, I believe that the shock laying down collapses easier to let the sled try to climb on top of the snow.
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440dart
Well-known member
well if its in the up rite position it has more pressure trying to push the skid down in return make a worse approach angle exspecially when weight transfer is at its peak. i run mine layed down because my suspension is not coupled atleast thats how i think it works correct me if iam wrong
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Trenchmaster
Well-known member
I believe the owners manual says that for deep snow you should keep it in the upper hole, with the straps extended (coulda been the Edge owners manual). I tried mine in the lower hole and hated it, felt like the front end was plowing snow, and it was hard to pick the skiis up as there was less weight transfer. I was getting stuck in places I would normally just blast threw, some guys seem to like it better though.
Laid down works well on Edge RMKs... not well on IQ RMKs. Lots of theories why that is, but the nose of an IQ RMK is heavier than an Edge RMK so you need more help to transfer that weight up.
When the 900s came out leaving the shock in the upright position and even adding a stiffer spring helped a bunch with the heavy azz steering, as long as you were on the throttle.
All I can tell you is to play with it on your sled and see if you like it.
If you are riding an IQ Dragon and can't seem to get the inside ski lift under control when trail riding it move the shock to the lower hole and see if it is improved.
sled_guy
When the 900s came out leaving the shock in the upright position and even adding a stiffer spring helped a bunch with the heavy azz steering, as long as you were on the throttle.
All I can tell you is to play with it on your sled and see if you like it.
If you are riding an IQ Dragon and can't seem to get the inside ski lift under control when trail riding it move the shock to the lower hole and see if it is improved.
sled_guy
What everyone else has said is correct. Typically you would lay down the front shock an let out the front limiters. This in theory would allow the sled to get on top the snow easier and stay flatter.
Letting the limiter out allows the shock to maintain full stroke even though it isn't at optimal angle for transfer of force from bumps and jumps.
With it in the down position you also exert less transfer force of the machine. You will be less likely to wheelie. However, you will place more pressure on your skis. This may lead to more darting on the trail.
Put a chalk mark or tape or something on the floor where your track first touches the ground. Then make the adjustments and that mark should have moved further back. You have now in essence changed your approach angle.
As stated this was a great improvement on the edge chassis. I am trying it on the IQ this year too. This is more of a deep powder adjustment and should work good for boon docking.
If you spend a lot of time jumping or on the trail I wouldn't recommend doing this as you are going to sacrifice ride quality and as Ron stated, suspension action. If you ride a lot of set up snow this probably won't benefit either as you are not as concerned about the approach angle.
Letting the limiter out allows the shock to maintain full stroke even though it isn't at optimal angle for transfer of force from bumps and jumps.
With it in the down position you also exert less transfer force of the machine. You will be less likely to wheelie. However, you will place more pressure on your skis. This may lead to more darting on the trail.
Put a chalk mark or tape or something on the floor where your track first touches the ground. Then make the adjustments and that mark should have moved further back. You have now in essence changed your approach angle.
As stated this was a great improvement on the edge chassis. I am trying it on the IQ this year too. This is more of a deep powder adjustment and should work good for boon docking. If you spend a lot of time jumping or on the trail I wouldn't recommend doing this as you are going to sacrifice ride quality and as Ron stated, suspension action. If you ride a lot of set up snow this probably won't benefit either as you are not as concerned about the approach angle.
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tahoermk
Member
Like it low!
I dropped mine down on my 09 D8, and left the limiters in the middle. I like it in the pow and on climbs. It seems to jump up on top of the snow quickly, and climb flatter and faster than my friends in the stock position. His seems to climb and plane up slower. It does ride rougher on the trail, but I don't care how it rides on the little bit of trial I ride.
I dropped mine down on my 09 D8, and left the limiters in the middle. I like it in the pow and on climbs. It seems to jump up on top of the snow quickly, and climb flatter and faster than my friends in the stock position. His seems to climb and plane up slower. It does ride rougher on the trail, but I don't care how it rides on the little bit of trial I ride.
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G_dub
Member
Tried mine in lower position this weekend trail riding as whooped out as it was sucked. But in the deep it would just jump up on top of the snow I was ripping right through where normally i would trench and get stuck. so I would think for a free mod other than time it was worth trying to me. Other than time to loosen 1 bolt an wrestle the shock into the lower position it was worth it IMHO
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