Edge RMK 800 turbo
- Thread starter Ztiggi
- Start date
That project is looking really good. Nice job fabricating it all up. What are you doing to your carbs, to let them work for boost. I am familiar with the automotive side, I have a blow through setup on my car, but on a kehin or mikuni do you just pressure up the float bowl with boost? If you could post a pic of this I would appreciate it, because I have a 2007 dragon with a silber kit on it, but have a 2002 800 edge LE that this would be fun to try. Thanks, Adam.
almost finished with the air box now,
and I found that it is possible to do it with the rubber carb boots, so I just threw the aluminum ones in a drawer.
a M6 threaded axle is going through the air box and attach to a bracket in the cylinders to keep the air box in place,
and help keeping the carbs from popping off,
the air box uses the seals from the oem air filter box,
but the holes are narrowed down to 74.6mm, giving it a real tight fit onto the carbs
the two holes on top is for the vent lines from the carbs,
from what I've read I think the only thing to do to the carbs is this, and drill vertical holes in the carb slides so the space above them gets vented.
and I found that it is possible to do it with the rubber carb boots, so I just threw the aluminum ones in a drawer.
a M6 threaded axle is going through the air box and attach to a bracket in the cylinders to keep the air box in place,
and help keeping the carbs from popping off,
the air box uses the seals from the oem air filter box,
but the holes are narrowed down to 74.6mm, giving it a real tight fit onto the carbs
the two holes on top is for the vent lines from the carbs,
from what I've read I think the only thing to do to the carbs is this, and drill vertical holes in the carb slides so the space above them gets vented.
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Good thread keep us updated. I've been kicking around the idea of a turbo. I'm interested in seeing how this turns out.
More pics showing walbro fuel pump install,
installed fuel return into tank,
inline oil filter on the turbo oil.
fired it up and rode around a bit today, it runs rich (same jetting as before)
also seemed to empty the bowls for gas on long pulls,
so I've got to check the fuel system.
going to a dyno to test and tune later this week
installed fuel return into tank,
inline oil filter on the turbo oil.
fired it up and rode around a bit today, it runs rich (same jetting as before)
also seemed to empty the bowls for gas on long pulls,
so I've got to check the fuel system.
going to a dyno to test and tune later this week
Is the stator able to keep the battery charged?
I think so, it is still charged, I use a 50A 1000volt rectifier,
think I'll add a voltmeter gauge and fuel pressure gauge that can be read while riding to see what happens to the fuel
J
jskattum606
Well-known member
you need to Boost reference the float bowls. This is so the fuel gets pushed in. Also, what size pipe do you have going from the pipe to the turbo? should be 2" no bigger.
Do you have a blow off valve? The carbed turbos ive been around have run on with out them
Do you have a blow off valve? The carbed turbos ive been around have run on with out them
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I connected the carb vent lines that were on the air box to my new air box,
doesn't that pressureize the bowls?
the pipe is 2", but I allready got some negative feedback on my pipe, look at the pics longer up, maybe I'll need to change the end of the pipe.
J
jskattum606
Well-known member
i cant see which ones go where, Just make sure the bowls get pressure
J
jskattum606
Well-known member
project looks great. Cool Ideas and new designs
Did you add the battery and if so what did you have to do to get the battery to charge?
How's the build coming along? You almost finished up?
I took off the turbo because I was going for a long trip last weekend,
and it had not been tested enough for longer trips yet,
I'll install it again and add voltmeter and fuel pressure gauges to see what happens to my fuel, think the bowls got empty on long pulls.
Yes I added the battery, and a 50A rectifier that goes to the battery with it's own ground, I do not use the chassis for DC ground.
I have been using it the whole season for powering my gps.
My battery melted on the side facing the pipe on the long trip last weekend,
so guess I need a heat shield and a new battery.
and it had not been tested enough for longer trips yet,
I'll install it again and add voltmeter and fuel pressure gauges to see what happens to my fuel, think the bowls got empty on long pulls.
Yes I added the battery, and a 50A rectifier that goes to the battery with it's own ground, I do not use the chassis for DC ground.
I have been using it the whole season for powering my gps.
My battery melted on the side facing the pipe on the long trip last weekend,
so guess I need a heat shield and a new battery.
Today I installed the turbo again,
and added gauges for fuel pressure and voltmeter,
replaced the battery with a condensator, enlarged the fuel tank vent line
I discovered that my fuel pressure did not rise at all,
voltmeter showed 14volts when over 2-3000rpm,
but it did rise when I blowed into the line with my mouth at idle,
so there can not be any pressure in my pipe!
I T-ed the signal pressure line into the boost meter line, and now the fuel system works OK,
the fuel pressure is 5-6psi above boost, boost is 9psi
but I wonder why there is no pressure in my pipe, is it because of the flat plate in the end?
and added gauges for fuel pressure and voltmeter,
replaced the battery with a condensator, enlarged the fuel tank vent line
I discovered that my fuel pressure did not rise at all,
voltmeter showed 14volts when over 2-3000rpm,
but it did rise when I blowed into the line with my mouth at idle,
so there can not be any pressure in my pipe!
I T-ed the signal pressure line into the boost meter line, and now the fuel system works OK,
the fuel pressure is 5-6psi above boost, boost is 9psi
but I wonder why there is no pressure in my pipe, is it because of the flat plate in the end?
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I wondered how there could be no pressure in the pipe, and I found that I had forgotten to drill the hole after welding the coupling on the pipe 
so now i use the pipe reference, went down from 420 mains to 310,
had to tighten my track, it just slipped,
the sled seems to work pretty well now, it does have a run-on some times,
so a blow off valve is ordered.
guess I have to play with clutching too, it pulls 8600rpm now and it sounds like it hits the rev limiter.
so now i use the pipe reference, went down from 420 mains to 310,
had to tighten my track, it just slipped,
the sled seems to work pretty well now, it does have a run-on some times,
so a blow off valve is ordered.
guess I have to play with clutching too, it pulls 8600rpm now and it sounds like it hits the rev limiter.
Good for you! It sounds like you have put together a turbo system!
I was wondering how you could have no pipe pressure...nice simple mistake/fix.
A 3/8 tank vent sure wont hurt.
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I was wondering how you could have no pipe pressure...nice simple mistake/fix.
A 3/8 tank vent sure wont hurt.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
