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Easier way to change out bent A-arm

Prayn4snow

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Polaris Klim
I should have labeled this as easier way to work on the sled. Ive had my sled apart a number of times and have found it easier to use a sled lift like Lift-A-Sled. Anyone else using one? I changed out a lower A-arm last night and started with a floor jack, but it would push the Skinz float plate up into the lower A-arm putting the shock in a bind. Ive had other sled lifts in the past that some friends wanted more than I did. Ive had steel and aluminum lifts with problems with both. The steel was of course Heavy and rusted so it looked like crud after the 1st year. The aluminum one was too lite weight, cracked and was wobbly. I thought Id try a new design by Kurt Krug. His welds were perfect and so far every time Ive used it, it works flawless.
Changing the factory A-arm took only 30mins as described in the attached instructions including setting up on the lift. If anyone needs to change one Ill try to attach the instructions below. If your like me (You should get professional mental help) I like to know what every size wrench/socket is I will need to carry in my tool bag if I need it. I usually write next to the nut/bolt w a sharpie the size. My sled gets used in the trees with plenty of scratches so a little ink doesn't bother me. I also use this tool list to keep in my enclosed trailer and the Lift-A-Sled folds up nice and mounts up on the wall easy in my shop & trailer. I used a 13mm & 15mm wrench & sockets. Its easier if you have an extension and a torque wrench. 30ft lbs for the a-arm to bulk head, 18ft lbs for sway bar link, 40ft lbs for spindle and 18ft lbs for shock bolt. Note: kit comes with new lock nuts and advises you to throw away old ones. I keep a spare nut of almost every size in my tool bag if I ever loose one. The lift also puts me at the right height for my roll around stool, saving my old back for when Im stuck ;)
2nd & 3rd pic's are new A-arm next to bent one.

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Im posting some more pics and info of the Lift-A-sled for the guy that wanted them. Sorry I can't remember your name but it was nice meeting you. Kurt Krug's number at Lift-A-Sled is 715-661-0016. kurtssledlifts@gmail.com
The rear pads are adjustable to hit the right spot on the running boards and have a nice rubber boot to keep from scratching powder coated boards.

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Polaris instructions for A-arm kit. P/N 2206257, 258, 259 & 260 for Axys and SKS. I also tried to straighten one in my vise. They are stronger than they look! I put a 36" cheater on and it wouldn't bend. Time to drive the Arctic Cat over it, if that doesn't bend it nothing will ;) for you haters out there its 719lbs dry. Actually I'll try a press later when I get home.
 

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I'm in the market for a lift but I bet that one will cost a fair amount. Looks really nice though.
 
My a arm changing method requires a 5 gallon bucket. Just tip the sled on its side so you can stand up and work on it...

Your right, Ive used the 5 gal bucket too, I'm just liking being able to do everything at one time like greasing the skid, check track alignment etc. It was cheaper than I thought. He has a regular job and builds these at night. His son raced snow cross so he has tried the other brands too and decided to make his own. He sells them for $325, all his lifts come with wheels, hand crank, and drill adaptor
 
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Can you tell us how you bent the A-Arm? I sell the braces to protect the arms in this location and every one I have seen has been catching rocks with the carbides. I am wondering if we should also change the carbides skags to simple steel skags?
 
I hit a stump going about 20mph. Stopped me dead in my tracks. Im not a fan of carbides on off trail sleds unless you need to run tight trails to get to the hills.
 
In the past, I ordered hard weld bars and was happy with them. I did wear out a set completely this year. For this year's sled I kept the carbide, but I welded a bead all the way around the carbide to fill in the voids and then took them to a grinding wheel to make the rod as round as possible the entire length. This is what I'll be doing on all of mine from here on out. it's working great to prevent snagging on rocks but still has the hardness for the asphalt when needed.
 
Did it break after straightening?

I have a tweak in one of mine and the sled has never contacted anything hard.

Nope. I rode it for another couple of weeks with no issues, then I found the end of a log with my ski and put a proper 90 deg. bend in it where it had bent before, but it didn't break.

I didn't try bending it back a second time.
 
besides pressing them out - what's the trick to popping out the ball joint when re-using for the new a-arm?
 
Jesse,

You really should use a press...but if you dont have one... another person holding the arm over a larger socket.

Here's something that worked in a pinch for me... I'm sure theres some other good tricks out there too.

Buy a coupler for 3/4" metal conduit ... looks like this...

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pull the screws and file or grind off "a hair" around the O.D. of the coupler at one end so that it just fits inside the top hole for the ball-joint in the arm. File off the threaded boss for the screw on the outside on that same end.

The coupler will fit over the ball end, and only contact the outer race... then, using a hammer, with your helper holding the arm, with the ball joint resting squarely on, and centered over, the hole of the large socket (so the ball-joint will pass through)... tap the ball-joint out of the arm.


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I have the same lift as I'm friends with the guy whoo builds the lift a sled by far the best lift out there imo
 
besides pressing them out - what's the trick to popping out the ball joint when re-using for the new a-arm?

The new Polaris A-arm comes with everything already installed. So you don't have to remove anything. Look back at my original pics and you'll see what I'm talking about. I'm going to try straighten these when I get back from CO. Then keep it in my trailer as a back up. How much is your brace kit Teth-air?
 
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