Driveshaft question?

[AKRMK25]

No, this is not another let's complain about the 2013 drive shaft thread. I have read a lot of people talk about, but never give a firm answer on if a 2012 welded driveshaft will bolt in to a 2013. I am picking up my 2013 Pro tomorrow and want to order a 2012 shaft. I just want to be sure that it will work since my dealership is not 100% sure it will. I have full faith that Polaris will eventually fix this "situation" and I'm a big enough boy to realize toys break and we deal with it. I'm just a firm believer in fixing what I can before it potentially becomes an issue. Thank you for positive input and happy Thanksgiving!

 

[mountainhorse]

Although it has already been answered many times... I realize that it can be hard to find the info.

Gornodav, Привет и Добро пожаловать на форум!

Yes, you can substitute any 2010 - 2012 Polaris PRO-RIDE Chassis shaft into the 2013 PRO RMK.

If it is NOT from a 2011/2012 PRO-RMK, which has three 2.86" pitch drivers on them... You will need to install 2.86" pitch drivers.. All of the RUSH chassis and Switchback chassis have 2.52" pitch drivers on them and they will not fit your track.

You can get 2.86" combo drivers from AVID products or find some used drivers from someone that has taken them off already.

If you buy a used driveshaft.. I recommend that you change the bearing on the non-driven end of the shaft as well. And purchase a new pulley bolt with thread locking compound.

Send me a PM message if you need any help with this.

Может быть, я могу приехать в Россию некоторое время и ездить с вами.

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Snapped this pic of a 2012 Driveshaft on a 2013 belt drive/chassis.

Confirmed with Polaris factory engineering that the 2012 Driveshaft will bolt onto the 2013 Belt drive .

Geoff... Remember the display bare-chassis they had in the conference room... 2012 chassis with the new boards... Belt drive and the 2012 driveshaft..

The new driveshaft on the machines we drove is the same as the piece of extrusion that they had on display with the driveshaft... same length as previous years.

 

[mountainhorse]

Unless your dealer has one of the 2011/12 RMK driveshafts in stock... You will not be able to get one as they are back-ordered right now from the factory.

If you want to get a steel shaft in there.. you will need to find a good used one OR order a new one for a RUSH/SB (same shaft differnt drivers and hence different part number) and then add on some combo drivers like avids or find a person/shop that has some take-off stock drivers from a 2011/12 RMK... often laying around when they change out tracks... I'd bet that Carl's cycle has stock drivers from a 2011/12 they would sell you.

Note: The 2006 - 2010 IQ RMK/Dragon shafts will NOT fit into this application (too long)...SSABMUD DID successufully install a 2005 900-IQ shaft into his 2013... but also needed a new bearing on the non-drive end and new drive sprockets for the 2.86" pitch tracks on the newer sleds.

















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[AKRMK25]

I spoke with the dealer and as mentioned on here they are not available until the middle of December. I just wanted to ensure it would fit so when I pick my 13 up tomorrow I can order one and have it coming once they are released.

 

[mountainhorse]

PREDICTED availability is Mid December... but I wouldn't bank on it at that time.

 

[LoudHandle]

This is just my opinion but since most alternative shafts are BO'd. Check the glue on both ends of your driveshaft. If is is setup / cured hard your shaft will most likely be fine. Also verify the stub ends are straight, don't wobble when rotated. If both of these tests come up good the only other reason the shaft might fail is they didn't get enough glue squeezed into the joint. My hope is that is unlikely. Let us know what you find by checking these two things.

 

[AKRMK25]

Will do, I plan on going over it with a fine tooth comb once I get it on my stand in the shop tomorrow. Obviously the first item to check will be the driveshaft. I'll post the results tomorrow.

 

[OregonRMK]

I have a 2013 pro 800 le 163 in the garage. Have not had a chance to take it out yet. I will by next week and will post the good results of everything staying together. I did check it out however, due to the massive paranoia on here. Both end of the shaft have lots of glue and is very hard. looks like it was done correctly. During the inspection i noticed the stickers on the driveshaft. Looks liek serial number and not sure about the other one. Maybe they can narrow down the improperly glued ones by these numbers....anyway cant wait to ride this beautiful sled!!

 

[bubba94]

checked the glue on the shaft and A arms and it was fairly soft on both, I cut through it with a razor pretty easy. Im guessing that its not cured right then.

 

[LoudHandle]

checked the glue on the shaft and A arms and it was fairly soft on both, I cut through it with a razor pretty easy. Im guessing that its not cured right then.

I'm not sure a razor blade is a valid test as you can cut even aluminum fairly easily with a razorblade. I was referring more to finger nail poking at it or the blunt tip of a flat blade screwdriver. If it actually sticky still definitely not cured.

 

[polaris88]

I think the FST IQ drive axle will work in the pro. I am not 100% sure. I do remeber guys swaping in the fst drive axle into the 2010 rush so they could run 121 track. Just another option if you are looking for a steel axle. And I do have one for sale.

 

[Kiputah]

Why wouldn't you just use your current drive? We had two pros out today no issues. If it fails it happens within a few miles. Just a thought

 

[pura vida]

FWIW, i checked the glue on my 13 drive shaft and on the a-frame with my pocket knife. then checked the glue on the a-frame on my 11 pro. all three seemed to be similar hardness. i could cut through it and shave pieces off but only with my knife. fingernail did nothing on any of the three. no idea idea if this provides any relevance what so ever. but had i been able to tell a difference between the 11 and 13 i would have been talking with my dealer. as of now, i'll ride it and see what happens. whenever we end up getting snow that is... alaska is dry, dry, dry! not a single place to ride on the road system. in one of the main riding areas we are already 50 inches behind where we were last year at this time... a good start? not so much! anyway, good luck to all.

pv

 

[scarffy]

Rode my 2013 pro today . I was very concerned but after 30 miles i have to say what a great sled !!! I rode with 2 other 13s and all went well , 3 very happy customers .

 

[trickedxcr]

No, this is not another let's complain about the 2013 drive shaft thread. I have read a lot of people talk about, but never give a firm answer on if a 2012 welded driveshaft will bolt in to a 2013. I am picking up my 2013 Pro tomorrow and want to order a 2012 shaft. I just want to be sure that it will work since my dealership is not 100% sure it will. I have full faith that Polaris will eventually fix this "situation" and I'm a big enough boy to realize toys break and we deal with it. I'm just a firm believer in fixing what I can before it potentially becomes an issue. Thank you for positive input and happy Thanksgiving!

I don't no what the shafts from Polaris cost but I'm sure they aren't cheap!if it was me I would get whole of Gary at micro Belmont and have him make me a shaft out of microloy.microloy is as strong as they get period.they hold up to 700hp sleds launching on grass...asphalt... and ice.Gary has very good prices and his work is top notch and he stands behind everything he makes.I would check the price on the poo shaft then give him a call.I bet he is around the same ball park for price for 1000 times stronger shaft...just my opinion.

 

[elvis1280]

Why wouldn't you just use your current drive? We had two pros out today no issues. If it fails it happens within a few miles. Just a thought

I completely disagree with that. If It fails at all it will be when you finally stress it by either long wot pulls or wot from standstill? If your breaking your sled in properly you will hit wot for a couple of seconds at a time the first 20 miles so that would be the time it would happen the least. If it goes it will happen when you finally ride the hell out of it.

My best friend brought his 13 over to my shop today so we could check the glue, anyway he has 40miles on it already and his glue on the driveshaft was a lot softer than the a arm glue but not soft like the hardner or 2nd part of the mixture was missing? I think its a bad batch on the ones that failed, not so much the glue hasnt cured, its just bad glue?

I hope polaris takes care of you guys and I hope my buddies sled is fine. Nothing worse than a beautiful day cut short cause someones sled fails. I can say this, all the talk about my 12' cat last year blowing 15-20 belts a weekend? I got 550 miles on the same belt and i am still using it. So this could very well be the same type of situation.

I ll keep you updated on his 13' rmk but i assume its gonna be a bad azz sled.

 

[Tenderloin]

Day Two

289 km, first 171 breakin. Next 118 deep pow, hills , even a couple of mandatory rollovers! Driveshaft - not enough glue coming out of holes to tell if it is super hard, basically flush with aluminum.

 

[AKRMK25]

So I finally got my two 13 Pros home and the first thing I did was check the drive shafts. The glue on both is hard as a rock with plenty coming out of the holes. I am feeling a lot better about things and am praying for some snow so I can test them out.

 

[chedder]

Hi Guys. Anyone know if the 2013 regular rmk800 (not pro) with the chaincase has this same driveshaft issue? Or is it a different part?

thanks.

 

[mountainhorse]

2013 Std RMK has a chaincase and the same driveshaft from the 2011/12 RMK's/PRO's