Drive shaft bolt lock washers

[M5-]

So I've just been going through my kit and replacing every bearing after the new slide rail install and found all of these lock plate washers are fawked. Anybody know what these are called or what there original application is and where to find them other than through Polaris. John Deere?

M5

 

[WingNutRacing]

?

Harbor Freight?

 

[M5-]

Harbor Freight?

Exactly. I'll just make some, TS dealer had no clue, what a joke.

M5

 

[CATSLEDMAN1]

the old folding tab

I have built from scratch 5 snow bikes. From the first machine on, the issue of loosening bolts on the drive shaft and jack shaft was a problem. Over time I gravitate to about the same setup as the TS.

Basically you want fine thread sae grade 8 7/16" or 1/2 bolt, then use a grade 8 washer and red loctite..............done. The bending tab idea is mostly a factory safety net idea but will not prevent loosening of the bolt if its not properly cleaned seated and torqued. Like the plastic sleeve over the safety belts in your new pickup you don't really need them.

So clean the internal and external threads with wire brush and carb cleaner then hit with some electrical contact cleaner, lots of red loctite and tighten with good air gun. If it comes loose after that, then you need to really look at your other problems.

 

[M5-]

Bolts were tight as hell with red Loctite. I'd have to look up the actual torque spec I used but it was over 100 ft/lbs. I torque everything. Even with that there is still movement. You can see where the nut has eaten into the washer. Just another thing for guys to keep an eye on is all I'm saying.

M5

 

[olymon]

Lock wire bolt head to another bolt? I'm really not sure of the application but we lock wired bolts that had high vibration loads when I was in the Navy.

Making JIS screws into junk

 

[Jon Mutiger]

While that seems like a viable solution to the keyboard hero's out there, this bolt spins and can't be wired effectively.

Physical / mechanical locking means like the original is the way to go if you want to retain future serviceability of your kit.

I run a thread chasing tap through each hole before reinstallation, and I use 243 Loctite to help with any future disassembly issues. The red Loctite results in a nearly unserviceable kit in my personal experience.

Jon

Lock wire bolt head to another bolt? I'm really not sure of the application but we lock wired bolts that had high vibration loads when I was in the Navy.

Making JIS screws into junk

 

[olymon]

If you put 243 on, torque it right then. 243 dries quickly. If you use 242 you could put the bolt in and have more time to tighten it. Coffee break, phone call, whatever. We ran into this at work when putting in several boltsat a time. By the time we got to the last bolts that were finger tight, the 243 was cured already.

Making JIS screws into junk

 

[CATSLEDMAN1]

good loctite and good torque, if they loosen then you have a bearing issue, worn chain, bent sprocket, sproket out of alignment, dinged driver, track clips broken, track alignment issue. Should take a good look around.

 

[the gman]

The problem with the bolt coming loose was because of the key lock design,or lack of. Once the key got some wear from motor-brake torgue it would loosen itself. When timbersled came out with the lock to keep the bolt tight, they sacrificed the longer key from past years for a place to incert the lock. Best thing yet is the new splined shafts. Not really a option on older kits. If your keys or key way is worn you will keep loosening bolts as the slop (damage) is already done. Get a lone key that fills the full width and red loctight and check throughout the season. Only fix I have found until I installed the newer drive shaft with the splined shaft.

 

[M5-]

You are right, its a lame a$$ design, you never see $hit like this in 150 hp sleds which never have these problems. Another bigger IMO issue is the diameter of the roll pin is smaller than the keyway slot which allows the pin to move back and forth ever so slightly, then over time it wears the washers and loosens. It's not like I don't do maintenance seems like that's all I do on this POS. I've added a second roll pin to the big a$$ washers but I'm not expecting it will help very much, its more of a backup to help the locking plate not split as quite as fast. I've also added a thin flat washer under the bolt head which may become sacrificial if there is any movement.

The only reason I'm even keeping this kit is so I can set up a second bike for occasional use by family members but I'm really of a mind that its not worth the effort. Here in Canada there are really only 2 kit options if you want a dealer network and any support at all. TS parts and service is a complete joke where Yeti is awesome and as a bonus its local. As it stands now the Yeti kit is getting close but I'm glad I didn't spring for a 2016 because they have made significant improvements for 17 between the shocks and the track etc. IMO its unreasonable to expect customers to throw another $2k at a one year old kit to make it run with the latest model, for example, they had the Maxtrack which was supposed to be THE track for last season then replaced it now they are blowing them out which will kill the used track market for guys who choose to upgrade to the 2. Until things stabilize a bit in this sport I'm in a holding pattern but the 17 Yeti is looking better and better everyday, I guess time will tell.


M5

 

[WingNutRacing]

Yep

If I was Canadian, I'd go Yeti aye....

 

[olymon]

I don't know how to put a link in using my phone, but you may want to look at wedge locking washers. Search for nord-lock wedge locking washers junker vibration test. Good info.

Making JIS screws into junk