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DRIVE CLUTCH BALANCING DIFFERENCES

Your thought process is sound. The reason that you can't include the belt into the balancing equation of the clutches is that the belt is static to the clutches, i.e. a different part of the belt touches different sections of the clutch on each rotation of the belt-so taking that into consideration isn't possible, whereas a tire on a wheel is constantly beaded to that same part of a wheel on a car. Of course, you shouldn't run a belt missing sections or with burned spots in it....

Exactly my point.....you have major part of the rotating mass that cannot be included in the balance of the clutch, but it is ALWAYS present.
If your tire on your truck DID rotate on the wheel (like the belt on a clutch) would we even bother trying to attain balance? Would it make ANY sense to balance just the wheel (clutch) and then throw a tire (belt) on it that we know will throw it off balance?? To top it off, the belt is only acting on 1/2 of the circumference of the clutch so the force exerted is no where close to equal or constant. just thinking out loud- a little slow at work today :face-icon-small-win
 
Mountainhorse, I think you and I agree much more than we disagree!:face-icon-small-win
And, not to rag on indydan, because I do believe he is very intelligent and provides good service, but right in his first post he states he sets belt to sheave clearance at zero to .010 MAX, which you and I would both agree is probably not correct.....but, to each his own....
 
Yep.... I think we do.

His zero to .010" is on a brand new belt that will break-in to be.010 to .020" once run....
 
This thread SHOULD be named "Drive clutches... making them work the way they need to"

An old worn out clutch that is balanced is still an old worn out clutch.

If your clutch is in excellent condition, with good bushings, no grooves in the shieves, with the side clearance set then the balance will make the engine smoother if it is out of balance in the first place.

Most of the factory clutches that I've seen are not balanced very well from the factory. I say this because I have personally seen a night and day difference in smoothness from many new, factory robotic balanced, that were re-shimmed and re balanced. The factory can only take so much time to balance a clutch... plus there are errors sometimes that happen.

Since the Primary is THE power link from the engine to the remainder of the drive-train, I believe that it should be as good as can be and that you should have the clutches set up as good as they can be in order to get the most out of the sled.

I have seen a couple (2) brand new 2009 & 2010 800 Dragons (one in Cali one in Idaho) that the Primary was not functioning properly from the factory. The dealer could not figure out why the sled would not pull RPM's... lots of work and even a factory rep out to check the sled... Installed a new "loaner" clutch off another working sled... problem went away and the sled ripped.

Go figure.

For the investment that we put in these sleds and in using them... I think that it is good money spent to have this stuff verified to be "Spot-On"... All the clutch kits in the world wont do a thing for you if the clutch is not working the way it should.

Heck... I checked out over 30 sleds on my road trip last year... just because I was curious.. only about 8 or 9 of them were even close to being in spec for belt deflection and side clearance, only one of those was within the factory spec of .020"... most of those sleds were sitting new on the showroom floors of the dealers...
 
Mountainhorse, I think you and I agree much more than we disagree!:face-icon-small-win
And, not to rag on indydan, because I do believe he is very intelligent and provides good service, but right in his first post he states he sets belt to sheave clearance at zero to .010 MAX, which you and I would both agree is probably not correct.....but, to each his own....

Burndown.

As for belt to sheave clearance, How my own personal clutch would be set up............Zero top a brand new belt at the narrows part of the belt which means its going to drag when its first started, So that being said you get everything done and ready to go on a trip you install an old used belt to load and unload when you get where you ride after your fueled up suited up and ready to take off install the new belt, start it and take off hit the trail to the steep and deep.

If you have to stop before the belt is broke it then shut it off.

once you pull a few good hills or do some good boondocking the wide part of the belt will now be even with the narrow part which also has woren at least .005 to .010 and now the shimming is perfect.

1 more little trip is to adjust the driven open just a shade more then it should be until the belt is broke in the adjust drive to just about creep on the stand and when you hit the brake it doesn't pull motor down anymore then a needle wiggle.

Shipping clutches out this type of spec can get me in trouble once in awhile so I try and lean a little towards .010.

Tight sheave clearances save rod pins and pto-ends.

Dan
 
indydan: can you explain the difference between a spin balance and a static or bubble balance? Which do you use and why? Can you give us pro and cons?

I'm asking because earlier this year I sent the clutch off of my 09 Assault to be balanced, assuming it would be spin balanced. Less than 5 hours of ride time later, the clutch cracked and broke in half right between the sheaves. The fixed sheave spun on the crank, welded itself to it, and ruined the crank end. Ended up being a spendy fix.

I'm no guru and don't know what happened first or what caused this to happen, but later found out that the clutch had been bubble balanced. I'm suspicious of the "balancing" having caused the problem. Your thoughts please?

PS. I originally sent to clutch off because of a broken bolt in one of the towers. Hadn't had any problems with the clutch, no reason to suspect it wasn't balanced. Just figured might as well get it balanced while it was there.

WOW!!!!!! Sorry I posted and never came back to see what all went on here...........I don't log on very often.

I can explain.

1 - Bubble balancing drive clutches ( don't )

1 - static and dynamic are completely different and very close to the same depending on how you do and perform the task at hand.

If a drive clutch is complete assembled and you put it on an bearing taper and let the heavy side go to the bottom and then you remove material from the low side and you repaet this process until you get to the point where no matter where you set the clutch it will not move it is now static balanced and in no way dynamic balanced.

If you take that same static balancer disassemble the drive clutch and put the back stationary shiv on by itself and balance it alone to perfect static balance it ineffect is every close to dynamic balanced because it has a machined center post that is long, But it is machine from pure stock it by itself would not require balancing. Then there is the narrow inner sheeve the is to narrow to require dynamic balancing so static balancing gets the job done.

Then after that piece is balanced you spin the spider on a balalnce it again. then you do the moveable by itself and the face plate.

Now each piece even though seperately static balanced will result in the same as being done on a dual plane dynamic balancer.

The problem with static balancing a complete clutch is the fact that it is wide enough like a tire on a car or big truck tire the wider the item the more important it becomes to dynamic balance.

static will find the weight but you do not know where its at.

a perfect static balanced wide tire can have a heavy spot outside at 12 o'clock and the same heavy spot at 6 o'clock inside and staticly it will seem perfect and it will shake the wheel out of your hands.

Dynamic dual plane feels the inside and outside and tells you where the weights at.

most dual plane balancers cost about $20K

Bubble or static balancing done on drive clutches is a complete waste of time and dangerous.

The factory uses dual plane mass production robotic balancing and most of the time its pretty good..........Its mass production. you make the call on what you think of mass production.

Dan
 
TTT for a good topic this time of the year!!

I've been getting tons of PM's / emails on this topic that are answered here and in Rons great post above.













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The real cost

*DISCLAIMER*
I don't know IndyDan and have never done business with him.

...but, his reputation is impeccable so I am willing to take his advice at face value.

Earlier in this thread Dan listed a clutch balancing job at $125 and some scoffed at the price. I have a different take.

-The clutches are the heart and soul of a sled
-IndyDan is widely regarded as a genuine expert in his field and an honest businessman
-My 2012 Pro, after a few odds and ends are thrown in, is costing right around $12,500
-$125 is 1% of $12.5K. 1%!!!

So, my question to you...is an additional 1% worth the peace of mind that comes from having the best guy in the business ensure your new investment is going to run correctly? Hell, 125 bucks is less than it costs for a set of Better Boards (not bashing BB, just comparing priorities) and most guys order their boards before their sled is even at the dealership! I've never seen a motor blow up because of clogged up footwells...

(speaking of BB...I need to order mine)
 
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