Dragon clutching

[skibreeze]

I've been reading all of the threads on clutching for days now and just have a few questions. Not looking for point and shoot, I do lots of boondocking.

Sled had stock pipe and primarily ridden at 9-12k. 08 800 155.

I'm trying to figure out which helix to use, Carl's 62-42 .40/ 60-40 .40 or SLP 60-38 .36/ 60-40 .36.

Thinking about the SLP pink/green primary with the stock black /purple secondary and the MTX 62's.

What am I missing here? Any suggestions?

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

I've been reading all of the threads on clutching for days now and just have a few questions. Not looking for point and shoot, I do lots of boondocking.

Sled had stock pipe and primarily ridden at 9-12k. 08 800 155.

I'm trying to figure out which helix to use, Carl's 62-42 .40/ 60-40 .40 or SLP 60-38 .36/ 60-40 .36.

Thinking about the SLP pink/green primary with the stock black /purple secondary and the MTX 62's.

What am I missing here? Any suggestions?

ski.....I would go for slp's helix..reason being..my 163 08 will barely pull the 42 final angle once I hit about 6000 ft..it wants less final angle any higher up elevation wise..so I would be running a 40 final from 6000 up to about 8000then bump down to a 38 final for over 8000...make sure you add a couple delrins to the secondary...and i can pull 68 mtx's up to 6000 before i run out of rivit to remove and the r's start pulling down under 8100 so I would think the 65's might be better with the smaller final angles up higher..62's maybe too light ...I think you will like the green/pink spring also..brings back the snappiness to the bottom with the steeper initial angles...

 

[skibreeze]

That's what I was initially thinking for the helix angles. What puzzled me was 38 is as low as you can go and I know that the 38 works for the 600's. Why does it work for both as a finish angle?

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

That's what I was initially thinking for the helix angles. What puzzled me was 38 is as low as you can go and I know that the 38 works for the 600's. Why does it work for both as a finish angle?

it all has to do with the combo..while the 6 can pull the big helix's, it has to run less weight to get full rpm's..hence not as much track speed(or hp)...for any given combo you get certain results based on the track/gearing drivetrain loss vrs. hp/rpm/ and torque produced by the motor.. if you ran your 800 at 3/4 throttle (a for instance of where the 8 produces the same 125 hp that the 6 produces at full throttle) theoretically it should spin the track at the same speed...although torque may well be different between the two even though they are both making 125 hp ...clutching is all about balancing springs/weights/helixs to match the hp/torque against the drivetrains traction/frictional loss/rotational mass..the clutching cant tell how big the motor or track is other then by how much leverage it applies thru the clutches..either as resistance(track) or as power(motor)...and you can make any clutch combo move the sled..but..finding what moves it best with the least amount of frictional loss/heat/wasted energy is the key to great clutching...there is no perfect clutch setup..its all about adjusting how the clutches work to fit how you ride/conditions you ride in....and thats why carls and slp sell so many clutch kits..overall in most conditions their setups work better(read more efficently) then others..and hence why so many like and run what they sell...

 

[crashnbash]

I ride the same elevations, and maybe even some of the same places. I had a custom helix cut to get a shallower initial angle, but found the 38 and 40 finish angles to work best on my very close to stock 163.

 

[skibreeze]

I ride the same elevations, and maybe even some of the same places. I had a custom helix cut to get a shallower initial angle, but found the 38 and 40 finish angles to work best on my very close to stock 163.

Spill the beans. What angle and who'd you get it from? How does that compare to the 60 initial on the SLP?

 

[crashnbash]

54-40-46 and 52-38-36, Team cut the helix for me. I felt that it was much smoother in the trees with the shallow intial angle and the shallow finish angles made it pull rpm more consistantly. The steep intitial angles made it fast in a drag race, but I don't drag race a mountain sled, I ride the trees and drainages.

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

54-40-46 and 52-38-36, Team cut the helix for me. I felt that it was much smoother in the trees with the shallow intial angle and the shallow finish angles made it pull rpm more consistantly. The steep intitial angles made it fast in a drag race, but I don't drag race a mountain sled, I ride the trees and drainages.

good info crash..have you tried any lower then the 38? been waiting to hear someone say they made a 36 work.. with a bone stock sled I would think up in the 60's on initial could still be too much,..especially in the tree's..thanks for confirming ..did you try any other springs/weights with the steeper angles?I never ride over 8000 ft and thats a rarity as well so I have to go off what others relate back...one thing that does help make the steeper initial work is playing with initial spring pressure on the frt. clutch..allows the bigger angle to work while keeping the snappiness in the thumb...but it is a fine balancing act...

 

[crashnbash]

I tried alot of weight combinations, with and with out spring shims. The stock helix initial angle is a good comprimise between carls and mine if you want some drag racing. I never went lower than a 38. I use the 38 for heavy snow,or when up way high. I suppose if you went way high and had heavy snow a 36 would work well.