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Don't void your warranty

so for a short block they are charging you over $2000 in labor? we barely get that to put a deisel in a ford superduty. this is why I do my own work. the dealer is slow, they are mostly not knowledgable. (at least around here) there are some good dealers but few and far between. if it takes a dealer that long to do a motor run. I would rather have someone who can do it in 5 hrs then someone who takes 20hrs. I can pull a subaru motor, replace the head gaskets and have running in under 5hrs, I have done a bunch of them. so a guy who does it fast does not mean he's not doing it right. he know what hes doing and is what I would want

i'll take the 20hr guy, the 5hr guy sounds like he's used to doing nothing but flat rate work, when you own your own business you learn this is not the way to do things. if you brag about how fast you do your work i wouldn't be interested in letting you touch anything of mine. i'm more interested in hearing from my mechanic about the quality of work he did, how he fixed that loose hose while he was there cause it looked like it might cause a leak later on. or how he spent more than half of that 6 hours you quoted just cleaning the thing spotless and making sure there would be no unexpected problems come up. quality takes time, after running my own auto repair business for over 20 years i've seen way too many mechanics who were sooooo fast they could r&r anything faster than me, then to have thier work return in 2 days with this loose and that left undone... quality, i'd say find a mechanic who cares more about the end product than how fast he can get the job done!!! in the long run you'll come out money ahead. i have a sign in my shop that says "were not the cheapest at anything"... gets rid of those customers right away that are looking for nothing but cheap, and those are the kind of customers i'm not interested in having.
 
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Yup, you want to run fast you got to build S L O W....who cares if it takes 2 weeks to do it ?? If it runs 2 years perfect after you are done.

And yup ftx, 100% correct oil is your best friend in a 2 stroke..I run 1.5 oz /gallon of redline race plus the normal injected oil in all my sleds. Turn those pumps up. Sure it fouls plugs,sure it wont pass emissions,yeah it will smoke a tad...but when I make great power and my pistons/bearings look like new at re build time in a 200+ hp big bore I could care less. The way I see it in a $10,000+ sled motor ill burn the oil and put 12 bucks worth of plugs in it every ride...... gettin towed back SUCKS....:heh::heh::heh::he
 
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check your oil usage, if you are not going through much oil it will happen again!!! I call bs on the a shortblock costing $4300. went on babbits priced out pistons, crank, and cases. no seals though and it is $1782. Add cylinders and head to it and its $2773. you will need seals and gaskets so throw in another $100 on top of it. they are full of crap and are a rip off if they are charging that much. I would say 5 hrs at the most to R&R the motor and rebuild it.

Remind me not to take anything to you! 5 hrs, HAHA! There's quality.....NOT
 
OIL, OIL, OIL!!! our shop Pro uses very little as set from the factory-turn up the pump and always run extra in the tank! We did the same on the IQ's-no oil related failures!

Curt,

How high do you recommend setting the oil pump on an IQ?

Thank you,

akrevrider
 
I talked to my dealer today about turning up the oil pump, The head mechanic and parts department manager both told me that Polaris's fuel map in the stock ECU is built around the Stock oil injection ratio? They both felt that turning the pump up would cause the motor to run to rich, they recommended running 5-6oz in the tank.

As far as I'm concerned, my motor is still warrantied for 3 more years! I'll just going to keep doing what I've been doing and ride the thing.
 
The motor in my Pro let go with 800 miles on the OD, It was replaced with a new short block in 14 days of bringing the sled back to the dealer which was great! I asked the dealer to look up and see what a new motor would cost if your warranty was denied, they came up with $4,300 for a short block :scared: WTF is Polaris thinking? It's a 2 cylinder 2 stroke, not a 8 cylinder diesel.

I know most engines are rebuild able, but I've seen a few Pro motors when the block was split where the crank and rod had punched through the block right next to the water pump.

What was the cause of the failure? What was your oil to gas ratio? What kind of oil do you use? Mods? Clutching/elevation? Thanks just curious. If it was preventable I would like to prevent it on mine as where i ride there is no towing out:scared:
 
What was the cause of the failure? What was your oil to gas ratio? What kind of oil do you use? Mods? Clutching/elevation? Thanks just curious. If it was preventable I would like to prevent it on mine as where i ride there is no towing out:scared:

This sled was all stock with 800 something miles, Vohk clutching, VES gold oil, 9-12,000 feet elevation. Failure was an oil seal on the Mag side crank bearing. Polaris replaced the engine with little to no problems, had me running again in 13 days after blowing up.
 
$4,399.99$4,399.99 In StockAvailable 03/25/2011pn 2204381 short block 800 msrp $4399 on back order till 3/25 right now so dont blow one! make sure you getting that oil
takes about polaris pays 5 hrs for top end rebuild so 5 is way to fast for a motor replacement
 
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I want to know where I can get a new diesel motor for only $4,300.

That would be nice. $4300 is what some ashclown in Granby charges to do a measly 20 hour job and go $1300 over an estimate and to boot, takes 2 months to do it.

But yeah, 4300 is steep for any short block. The Doo was only 1300
 
I talked to my dealer today about turning up the oil pump, The head mechanic and parts department manager both told me that Polaris's fuel map in the stock ECU is built around the Stock oil injection ratio? They both felt that turning the pump up would cause the motor to run to rich, they recommended running 5-6oz in the tank.

As far as I'm concerned, my motor is still warrantied for 3 more years! I'll just going to keep doing what I've been doing and ride the thing.

Looks like Poo hasn't gotten away from the motor woes yet.

I'd def. run a light pre-mix if I were you. Can't hurt
 
It would not taste good to pay for a 40 hour rebuild. At $90 shop rate that is .......... wait for it............$3600!
 
Looks like Poo hasn't gotten away from the motor woes yet.

I'd def. run a light pre-mix if I were you. Can't hurt

If the injectors are in the transfers, and are timed to squirt on the updraft, how does the extra oil put in the tank get on the rod and crank bearings?
 
i'll take the 20hr guy, the 5hr guy sounds like he's used to doing nothing but flat rate work, when you own your own business you learn this is not the way to do things. if you brag about how fast you do your work i wouldn't be interested in letting you touch anything of mine. i'm more interested in hearing from my mechanic about the quality of work he did, how he fixed that loose hose while he was there cause it looked like it might cause a leak later on. or how he spent more than half of that 6 hours you quoted just cleaning the thing spotless and making sure there would be no unexpected problems come up. quality takes time, after running my own auto repair business for over 20 years i've seen way too many mechanics who were sooooo fast they could r&r anything faster than me, then to have thier work return in 2 days with this loose and that left undone... quality, i'd say find a mechanic who cares more about the end product than how fast he can get the job done!!! in the long run you'll come out money ahead. i have a sign in my shop that says "were not the cheapest at anything"... gets rid of those customers right away that are looking for nothing but cheap, and those are the kind of customers i'm not interested in having.

I totally agree with this. the guys who say they "did a complete rebuild in 2 hours" make me laugh. quality work takes time its that simple. I spend a LOT of time when i am working on engines to make sure everything is perfect.
 
As far as I'm concerned, my motor is still warrantied for 3 more years! I'll just going to keep doing what I've been doing and ride the thing.

E X A C T L Y! I don't give two sh#ts what my oil ratio is. Polaris set it like that so I'm leaving it and riding it. 1,200 miles so far so good. Hopefully if it lets go, I'll have about 3 or 4k miles on it and I can have a nice fresh motor for my $50 deductible.
 
If the injectors are in the transfers, and are timed to squirt on the updraft, how does the extra oil put in the tank get on the rod and crank bearings?

It doesnt... but the thing to remember here is that the oil that is getting pressure pumped to the rods and mains is not diluted by gasoline. This is the reason why it can be so lean on oil. Hope this helps
 
E X A C T L Y! I don't give two sh#ts what my oil ratio is. Polaris set it like that so I'm leaving it and riding it. 1,200 miles so far so good. Hopefully if it lets go, I'll have about 3 or 4k miles on it and I can have a nice fresh motor for my $50 deductible.

thats all fine and dandy until your 60 miles out in the backcountry and it blows up. personally i would want some peace of mind that its getting proper oil so i can enjoy riding and not be paranoid that the motor is going to seize up
 
After 1,200 plus miles I'm not the least bit paranoid. Some people have to fool with everything and I can understand that, but time (and miles) have already shown there is no reason to fiddle with it. Just enjoy the fact you don't have to buy a gallon of oil every other time you go riding.
 
short block

FYI, rmkboxer
Polaris short block includes case halfs, crank, rods, pistons, cylinder(s), head all pre-assembled.
Just thought you might want to recalulate.
With that said It's still to much.
 
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