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Does this sound like TPS issue?

G

Gone Sleddin

Active member
2012 silber pro
8-10000 ft
5-7 lbs
100ll

Issue 1
Sled has a stumble at around 5000 rpm. Runs clean below that but sticks there coming through the rpm range, once above that it runs well. The mode on the box goes from 2 green lights at slow speed to 3 green lights as i add throttle. This is where the stumble occurs. As I add more throttle it will jump to 3 yellow lights and clears up from there on. Tre problem seemed to get slightly worse throughout the trip.

Issue 2
Once the sled is warm, it will idle at the correct afr for a time and the slowly the afr will begin to climb until it starts to sputter and I get an E9 on the guage. I had tried to clear up issue 1 by lowering my green but that magnified issue 2.

Issue 3
3 or 4 times in the last 2 days we were riding some logging trails that were pretty whooped out. In and out of the throttle at low speeds. When I would try to get into the throttle I would get a bog that would about throw me over bars and would not come out of it unless I chopped the throttle a few times. When this happened the afr would read way lean. The sled would not run well or even idle unless I could find a stretch to do a couple wide open pulls for a ways.

I emailed back and forth with Justin a few times on the issue and he thought it could be a TPS issue. Sound right to everyone else? Anything else I should look for?

Besides these issues I was happy with the way the sled ran and impressed with the power it had at the lower boost numbers. If I can get this stuff straightened out she will be one fine machine
 
My sled runs way better after the TPS was reset. I had similar issues except my bog was just right at the bottom and would clean up immediatly. I would say that my AFR was doing the same thing, but now reads a consistant reading all the time. My idle is a bit high but reverse still works and the thing rips alot better than it did before, the throttle response is 100% better, and it seems to start better also. Take it in and have it checked
 
I might as well have them check that oil line service bulletin when I take it in. Do they have to take anything apart to do that oil line deal or reset the TPS? Not sure I trust a mechanic to get it apart and back together right with the kit.

Thanks for the help
 
The TPS needs to be calibrated with the doebek box out of the plug connection above your throttle bodies. Square looking plug I think there are 6 connectors in side the plug. I would have the do the oil service during the summer when you can remove the air box and throttle bodies yourself then take it to them to have them do the service.
 
2012 silber pro
8-10000 ft
5-7 lbs
100ll

Issue 1
Sled has a stumble at around 5000 rpm. Runs clean below that but sticks there coming through the rpm range, once above that it runs well. The mode on the box goes from 2 green lights at slow speed to 3 green lights as i add throttle. This is where the stumble occurs. As I add more throttle it will jump to 3 yellow lights and clears up from there on. Tre problem seemed to get slightly worse throughout the trip.

Issue 2
Once the sled is warm, it will idle at the correct afr for a time and the slowly the afr will begin to climb until it starts to sputter and I get an E9 on the guage. I had tried to clear up issue 1 by lowering my green but that magnified issue 2.

Issue 3
3 or 4 times in the last 2 days we were riding some logging trails that were pretty whooped out. In and out of the throttle at low speeds. When I would try to get into the throttle I would get a bog that would about throw me over bars and would not come out of it unless I chopped the throttle a few times. When this happened the afr would read way lean. The sled would not run well or even idle unless I could find a stretch to do a couple wide open pulls for a ways.

I emailed back and forth with Justin a few times on the issue and he thought it could be a TPS issue. Sound right to everyone else? Anything else I should look for?

Besides these issues I was happy with the way the sled ran and impressed with the power it had at the lower boost numbers. If I can get this stuff straightened out she will be one fine machine

It certainly could be a TPS issue. The one thing that really sticks out to me is that you are running WAAAAYYYY too much octane for that boost and elevation. You can run straight 100LL all the way to 14 lbs at that elevation. I'd try running 50/50 av/pump at 7lbs and see if your bogs all go away.
 
The TPS needs to be calibrated with the doebek box out of the plug connection above your throttle bodies. Square looking plug I think there are 6 connectors in side the plug. I would have the do the oil service during the summer when you can remove the air box and throttle bodies yourself then take it to them to have them do the service.

This is not true if you are resetting the TPS with the homemade tester.
 
the reason for the high octane was it was the first trip out with it so i wanted to be safe while right out of the chute. i was also planning on crankin it up a little more but the conditions in the big horns allowed it to take me anywhere i wanted to go the way it was.
I was planning on calling the dealer and having the tps checked. I will run the situation by them and see what they want me to do
 
The TPS needs to be calibrated with the doebek box out of the plug connection above your throttle bodies. Square looking plug I think there are 6 connectors in side the plug. I would have the do the oil service during the summer when you can remove the air box and throttle bodies yourself then take it to them to have them do the service.

Why do you need to do this? my dealer did mine without unplugging and it seems to run great, did I just get lucky?
 
New thought...
I was reading in another post about low voltage issue. The poster said he noticed a difference with the hand warmers on or off. I got to thinking that I hadn't noticed these issues on the first day but I didn't turn the warmers on until the ride back to the lodge that day. Also, with issue 3 I mentioned I would get a check engine light at lower rims when it wouldn't want to idle, wondering if this was caused by low voltage. Don't know why it took me so long to think of this, maybe my mind has some low voltage issues
 
Why do you need to do this? my dealer did mine without unplugging and it seems to run great, did I just get lucky?

It needs to be unplugged if they use the digital wrench laptop. I would ask if he unplugged your silber wiring when he adjusted your TPS and see what he says.
 
It needs to be unplugged if they use the digital wrench laptop. I would ask if he unplugged your silber wiring when he adjusted your TPS and see what he says.

I have an Hm kit, but I know that he did not unplug. What is the reason for unplugging? He was using digital wrench
 
Start by having your TPS set by your dealer. Then you know that the TPS is correct before you start trying to find something else
 
been there done that haha... im after checking just about everything... but seem to maybe have it cased out.... took it for a root today and it bogged a few times... turned up the red blue and down the red... worked alright... our snow is screwed here tho
 
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