Does a M7 have enough cooling??

[Mjunkie]

i believe they reversed the flow on the M8 versus the M7, so while it looks the same its actually backwards flowing.

I don't know about the M8's but the M7's definitely go from the head down. When I got my BB, cutler said that I had to put my water temp probe in the line coming off the bottom of the motor to insure that you'd get a temp of the water leaving the motor. My probe is in the bottom line and the temps I get make sense to what I'm doing at the time.

 

[007]

This is turning into a good thread. I have a BB on a m7 and have had some bogs on log pulls and always thought it was clutch heat (no water temp gauge) maybe my motor is getting hot? I would have thought that my temp light would be on, but who looks at the dash while doing something stupid?

Keep going.

 

[BEPM7]

I have an M7 with RKT 800 BB, stock cut head, stock cooling system, stock hood, with side panel mesh and flo rights in front panel ahead of the primary clutch. I wrapped the twin SLP's to cut down on the crazy under hood heat. Have the same problem, sled works awesome on short pulls and but on long pulls, the revs start to drop and it bogs (frieghtening because you think piston melting). Sled cools down, works good again till you start doing long full throttle hard pulls. I thought it was heat soaked pipes because of the wrap...so my next purchase was going to be mesh hood and experiement with no wrap vs wrap.

So is the consensus heat soaked pipes or heat soaked engine? If its pipes then mesh hood is the answer (and maybe no wrap), if its engine than get a bigger cooler and better head?

Kelsey will say his BB with wrapped SLP twins is untouchable setup....

 

[Mjunkie]

I have an M7 with RKT 800 BB, stock cut head, stock cooling system, stock hood, with side panel mesh and flo rights in front panel ahead of the primary clutch. I wrapped the twin SLP's to cut down on the crazy under hood heat. Have the same problem, sled works awesome on short pulls and but on long pulls, the revs start to drop and it bogs (frieghtening because you think piston melting). Sled cools down, works good again till you start doing long full throttle hard pulls. I thought it was heat soaked pipes because of the wrap...so my next purchase was going to be mesh hood and experiement with no wrap vs wrap.

So is the consensus heat soaked pipes or heat soaked engine? If its pipes then mesh hood is the answer (and maybe no wrap), if its engine than get a bigger cooler and better head?

Kelsey will say his BB with wrapped SLP twins is untouchable setup....

I don't know for sure, what it is but putting on the mesh hood made a huge difference on my sled. With the stock hood, on a deep powder day, my sled wouldn't run after pushing it a little. It would bog bad!! I didn't change anything other than put the mesh hood on, and it runs 10 times better in the deep. So is it the fact that I'm not heat soaking everything under the hood because of the mesh as much, or is it the fact that the intake on the diamond s is a lot better than the stock (even though my stock was modified), which makes it breathe better in those conditions? I don't know. Maybe it is a little of both (probably), but it did make a HUGE difference. Nothing use to drive me more nuts than to have an awesome powder day and have the sled not run. I assumed it was the exhaust getting plugged with all the snow (worse since I got the BB because it moves a lot more exhaust than the stock 700), but my exhaust is exactly the same as it was before and when I'm in the over-the-hood deep powder, my sled keeps running. At least better than before, I still get a bog if I make a long, long hard pull, but even then it is pretty rare (compared to before). That makes me think that it is more the heat soaked motor and everything else under the hood. Just my experience with it all!

 

[rdr99]

Anyone have the dimensions of the CF cooler?