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Dobeck fuel controller

snowman80

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
I'm getting a pipe for my sled this year and am now trying to figure out which fuel controller to go with. I have experience with the PC5 but don't like how I have to adjust it with a laptop. I have no experience with dobeck but like the simplicity. Just have a few questions for the folks using dobecks. Have you ever had any problems with them? How do you know which rpm ranges the led's are? I've been reading through their website and am slowly understanding, kind of. They look fairly confusing to understand right away. Does anybody have any numbers for a pipe that would be a good starting point to go from there? Any insight on the dobecks would be appreciated!
 
this is info on the pure logic...it should be very similar to the dobek because I think one just makes the other..??..anyway I had purelogic and it was very easy to use..and they make one for your sled I think..

in your application you will only need to tune the green/yellow/red/ and switch point to full fuel..all other modes will likely be off..nitrous/pull fuel mode etc..

I found the green approx. idle to 5000 rpm..yellow 5000 to 7000..and red 7000 to wot,,just as a vague guesstimate..check the link..

http://www.pltuning.com/tuning_5.html
 
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Do the led's happen to move when you're riding the sled and applying different throttle positions? That would tell me which zones I'd be in at any given time. That would actually make this pretty easy.
 
yes the leds climb as you move and change the colors..and like they say they are somewhat relative to the way the carbs work...

you really should consider an egt for your sled..they are a real safe guard once you have your plugs/wash set with the controller to then know what your running temps are safe at and the egt lets ya know nothing is a stray...the koso is a great unit..
 
What they display (in most common applications is pulse width) they can be setup to display anything from rpm, duty cycle, pulse width, boost in those apps etc.

they will vary while riding.

If you understand carb tuning logic, its VERY simple.

While your driving the leds will be lit up in the color of the zone your are active in. if you have the box and gauge close together, makes tuning pretty darn easy. or take it a setup further with there new AFR plus! afr gauge and controller in one, and you can close loop mid and WOT fueling. set it and ride for everything but your bottom end fuel.
 
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once you get the controller then let me know..i will find a link to a real great thread on how you check your settings at the 1/4 1/2 3/4 and full throttle for different time intervals to check your burn and it lets you safely get your controller in tune with your pipe..

are you getting a ypipe with the pipe..??..if not and you were going to get an egt it would be great to put the egt in before your pipe and controller and get the temps with your "current safe " fuel map..

I have both afr and egt gauge but if I just had a choice of one with the simpler basic controllers I would pick the egt over
the afr but that's jmo
 
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Awesome info guys, thanks! Yes I'll be getting a y pipe with it also. m8magicandmystery could you possibly get me a link to that thread? It might help me understand a little better. Sounds like a pretty easy controller once I understand everything.
 
I just purchased a AFR+ from dobeck and so far they are great to deal with and will take the time to help you get set up . I believe you can also take it to them and they will set it up for you .
I really like the idea of having the adjust ability on the sled included with a gauge and a closed loop system to boot .
I will be running a slp pipe with a Hps can 13-1 par head and the mtntek kit this yr .
 
Awesome info guys, thanks! Yes I'll be getting a y pipe with it also. m8magicandmystery could you possibly get me a link to that thread? It might help me understand a little better. Sounds like a pretty easy controller once I understand everything.

go to post 8 and 9..you can ignore the egt part but pay attention to your plug readings as per F-BOMBS recommended tuning runs and set your controller up or down in the color portion that your controller is in in his segmented runs..

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1169205#post1169205
 
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What kind of pipe you getting?

It's dyno port's pipe and y pipe. Yes I know they claim no fuel controller needed. My friend I'm buying it from ran it on his '12 without a fuel controller, just put the ethanol resistor in and ran 91 no eth. It worked good for him doing that. He never rode it with that pipe back home around 2000 feet in elevation which is where I'm worried about it especially since it's going on my '13 which are leaner than the '12's to begin with. Better safe than sorry if you ask me. Plus I have a feeling this won't be the last performance upgrade I do to it so I might as well get a fuel controller.
 
I've seen 5 doebeck boxes fail they get wet and short out I've had 2 fail on my cat turbo seen 2 fail on a buddys sled and one got wet and shorted out hopefully the new ones are better. I always carried a spare
 
I've seen 5 doebeck boxes fail they get wet and short out I've had 2 fail on my cat turbo seen 2 fail on a buddys sled and one got wet and shorted out hopefully the new ones are better. I always carried a spare

So, you never thought about making the box more water-proof? I have mounted my attitude box like this, and will put condom over it at the ride time :) Condoms rule!

Edmonton-20130811-00165.jpg Edmonton-20130811-00166.jpg
 
Why should the user have to make it "more" waterproof when is is supposed to be waterproof from dobeck? They posted videos of them working under water, but I still had issues with moisture. More so with the boxes that had the on board boost sensor. I agree in hoping the new ones are better, but I won't be running one until they have a much better track record of in the field use not just in a jar of water.
 
Why should the user have to make it "more" waterproof when is is supposed to be waterproof from dobeck? They posted videos of them working under water, but I still had issues with moisture. More so with the boxes that had the on board boost sensor. I agree in hoping the new ones are better, but I won't be running one until they have a much better track record of in the field use not just in a jar of water.

I hear you... But condoms are best moisture protection (my Russian Army experience). Just make sure you buy straight ones. Any sort of texture/ribs/hair on it will look weird on controller. LOL
 
I used a Dobek on my boosted Apex. I masked off the front and back of it then applied "right stuff" gasket sealer around the edges where the seams are and also worked it into the wires where they enter the box. "Right Stuff" is awesome! its a very high quality gasket sealer that is tough and sets up like rubber. It doesn't peel off either.

I had mine mounted right on the steering riser so I could adjust it at anytime so it was always in the snow. Never had any issues with it. Eric
 
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