M
monster967
Member
Just put on new track and have not run it on the snow yet. Do you think im asking for trouble with 3'' hanging?
Do you think 3'' track sag is too much
- Thread starter monster967
- Start date
Yes.....1" free hang is plenty. Too much hurts performance, even if it doesn't ratchet....and a new track will get even looser as it breaks in.
M
mastertech
Well-known member
But to tight will also hurt performance and other wear items! 1 inch and your ready to rock!
M
monster967
Member
My skid is a 144 with a mountain machines offset axle with 9'' wheels. I put a 151 track on per mmp saying it would work. Now I have 3'' sag without weight on the track. I hope it doesn't ratchet. Does anyone have experience with running that much sag?
3" is too much. Your loose track will defeat your approach angle on
acceleration in powder and will rub your tunnel and coolers on deceleration. You will ratchet your drivers in DEEP powder. I've also seen someone stab their track from hitting a stump under acceleration. Move your skid back 1" or buy an offset axle or rail extensions.
acceleration in powder and will rub your tunnel and coolers on deceleration. You will ratchet your drivers in DEEP powder. I've also seen someone stab their track from hitting a stump under acceleration. Move your skid back 1" or buy an offset axle or rail extensions.
3" is too much. Your loose track will defeat your approach angle on
acceleration in powder and will rub your tunnel and coolers on deceleration. You will ratchet your drivers in DEEP powder. I've also seen someone stab their track from hitting a stump under acceleration. Move your skid back 1" or buy rail extensions.
acceleration in powder and will rub your tunnel and coolers on deceleration. You will ratchet your drivers in DEEP powder. I've also seen someone stab their track from hitting a stump under acceleration. Move your skid back 1" or buy rail extensions.
M
monster967
Member
So by moving skid back 1", is that how much slack I lose or is it more. Is the rear bracket strong enough to go back 1". I appreciate all the help.
Saggy
Moving the skid back 1" will more than compensate for a 3" weighted track sag. You will notice that your steering effort will increase with skid setback. On the track side of the front AND rear mounting points you will see factory template holes in the stiffener plates. Choose equally-spaced holes in each bracket to keep your center to center distance constant. I would go down slightly and back about 1". By moving the skid back 1" you adjust track LENGTH by 2". Remember track SAG and LENGTH are not the same. Track SAG is only a fraction of track LENGTH when adjusting tension. When you setback the skid by 1" you can cancel the effect by moving the axle forward 1". You will then need to move the axle rearward again 3/8" to get to about 1" of sag. Do you have enough aluminum in the back of the axle adjustment slot to lengthen the slot by 3/8"? Some rails do. Sometime you can cure track adjustment by lengthening the slot since you already have an offset axle and big wheels.
Moving the skid back 1" will more than compensate for a 3" weighted track sag. You will notice that your steering effort will increase with skid setback. On the track side of the front AND rear mounting points you will see factory template holes in the stiffener plates. Choose equally-spaced holes in each bracket to keep your center to center distance constant. I would go down slightly and back about 1". By moving the skid back 1" you adjust track LENGTH by 2". Remember track SAG and LENGTH are not the same. Track SAG is only a fraction of track LENGTH when adjusting tension. When you setback the skid by 1" you can cancel the effect by moving the axle forward 1". You will then need to move the axle rearward again 3/8" to get to about 1" of sag. Do you have enough aluminum in the back of the axle adjustment slot to lengthen the slot by 3/8"? Some rails do. Sometime you can cure track adjustment by lengthening the slot since you already have an offset axle and big wheels.
Saggy
Moving the skid back 1" will more than compensate for a 3" weighted track sag. You will notice that your steering effort will increase with skid setback. On the track side of the front AND rear mounting points you will see factory template holes in the stiffener plates. Choose equally-spaced holes in each bracket to keep your center to center distance constant. I would go down slightly and back about 1". By moving the skid back 1" you adjust track LENGTH by 2". Remember track SAG and LENGTH are not the same. Track SAG is only a fraction of track LENGTH when adjusting tension. When you setback the skid by 1" you can cancel the effect by moving the axle forward 1". You will then need to move the axle rearward again 3/8" to get to about 1" of sag. Do you have enough aluminum in the back of the axle adjustment slot to lengthen the slot by 3/8"? Some rails do. Sometime you can cure track adjustment by lengthening the slot since you already have an offset axle and big wheels.
Moving the skid back 1" will more than compensate for a 3" weighted track sag. You will notice that your steering effort will increase with skid setback. On the track side of the front AND rear mounting points you will see factory template holes in the stiffener plates. Choose equally-spaced holes in each bracket to keep your center to center distance constant. I would go down slightly and back about 1". By moving the skid back 1" you adjust track LENGTH by 2". Remember track SAG and LENGTH are not the same. Track SAG is only a fraction of track LENGTH when adjusting tension. When you setback the skid by 1" you can cancel the effect by moving the axle forward 1". You will then need to move the axle rearward again 3/8" to get to about 1" of sag. Do you have enough aluminum in the back of the axle adjustment slot to lengthen the slot by 3/8"? Some rails do. Sometime you can cure track adjustment by lengthening the slot since you already have an offset axle and big wheels.
