DJ kit set up

[Jreng87]

Installed a DJ clutch kit. Went out today with recommended set-up. Pulled 7900 on the flat trail no problem. Got into the deep snow and flat or up it only pulled 7500-7600. Too be honest I didn't pay much attention to stock set up rpms under different conditions.
My question is, under what sort of conditions should I be calibrating for 7900 rpms... Does it sound right way it is? I feel like it should hit 7900 regardless, but this is my first dabble into clutching snow not sure.

 

[powdermuncher]

I run DJ kits as well they work awesome.

I set it up so down low on the trail I am just of the rev limiter

Up higher in deep snow is right on the money 7900 to 8000

If you have big elevation and temperature changes quick clickers are the answer.

 

[Jreng87]

I run DJ kits as well they work awesome.

I set it up so down low on the trail I am just of the rev limiter

Up higher in deep snow is right on the money 7900 to 8000

If you have big elevation and temperature changes quick clickers are the answer.

I don't debate they work awesome, in fact I really enjoyed it today.
My question is under what conditions should it hit 7900rpms? I feel like my memory says on stock set up I hit 7900 no matter what

 

[birdie]

What kind of sled Track length & year would help


If its a doo adjust the clicker up 1 or 2 numbers

real easy to doo
birdie

 

[Devilmanak]

I don't debate they work awesome, in fact I really enjoyed it today.
My question is under what conditions should it hit 7900rpms? I feel like my memory says on stock set up I hit 7900 no matter what

I tend to feel that way about stock Doo clutching, that it was ALWAYS at 7900-8000, but in fact it can't be. Stock clutching I never look at the RPMS, so don't think about it. When messing with clutching I worry about it and notice when it is slightly off. I tried my DJ today on 174 T3, I was over-revving bad at 6000 feet. Clicked down to 1, it still slightly over revved down low, but was good high in the deep. I am going to add some weight and reclick, number 3 on the clicker is the goal. It is a compromise, it cannot be perfect everywhere, make it right where you want to use it most.

 

[logan1080]

Figure out what altitude you'll be at the most. For example, I was just in revelstoke and rode from 1800-2100 meters. I put in 15.3 grams and ran in clicker 3. I stayed out of the redline until I was at altitude. I could've ran 15.9 grams but it was still mostly 8000rpm. Could've dropped to clicker 2 for the slightly lower elevation spots. Use his charts, clutch according to planned elevation, fine tune with clickers if you feel like your way out.

 

[powdermuncher]

I miss my turbo wit adjustable waste gate--had a knob on the dash to adjust boost -- as soon as the rpm dropped turn it up till you make max RPM always right on making the same HP I set my summit
to 8000 rpm of trail on average riding altitudes for my area clicker on #3 that gives me enough adjustability from sea level to 8000 feet.
DJ's charts are usually very good. If you have no deep snow around just keep it of the rev limiter on the trail as you go up and in the deep snow it will bring you right back to 7900 -8000 RPM

 

[worx53]

clickers

If you are on a middle clicker number (example .3) and only pull 7500 you really need to drop 1 gram of pinweight . this will let you click up 1 to get 7900 and down 2 when at lower elevation or hardpack. If you are at clicker 1 now and 7500 rpm in the deep click up to 3 or 4 and it will be perfect.

 

[Jreng87]

I think my point is being missed, I understand the pin weights and clickers to get to 7900rpms... Again, here's the situation...

Pulls 7900rpms on the trail

Only hit 75000, maybe touch 7600 once in the pow

Normal? Or should I adjust so its hitting 7900 in the pow, but then it will likely be over on the trail

 

[tinkerjohnson]

Rpm

Yes 7800-7900 is what you want on both trail and in the powder, sounds to me like you need to pull some weight. But more info would help what clicker you in now? What happened when you clicked down?

 

[Jreng87]

13.6 grams

Clicker 3

7900 on trail, 7500 off trail

Moved to clicker 4

8000 on trail

7600 off

 

[DUKHTR3]

U are always going to pull more rpms on the trail vs pow. More resistance in the pow. I always set my to over rev on the trail.

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk

 

[sledr4life]

set it up to hit 7900 for the altitude you ride most.

The other option is to contact DJ. he has a new spring option that is supposed reduce clicker changes and hold shift rpm in a wider altitude or snow condition range.

 

[DITCHBANGER]

13.6 grams

Clicker 3

7900 on trail, 7500 off trail

Moved to clicker 4

8000 on trail

7600 off

its a mountain sled with a big paddle ,dont worry what rpm is on the trail at wfo. ive always clutched for powder, when im on the trail i only cruise at 6500rpm to save my track

 

[worx53]

I think my point is being missed, I understand the pin weights and clickers to get to 7900rpms... Again, here's the situation...

Pulls 7900rpms on the trail

Only hit 75000, maybe touch 7600 once in the pow

Normal? Or should I adjust so its hitting 7900 in the pow, but then it will likely be over on the trail

No, I explained it perfectly. Now that you posted the settings, drop the pinweight so you get the correct rpm at clicker number4 and then when you get to trail just set the clicker to #1 or #2---if you had quick clickers it would take 35 seconds. you shouldn't be above clicker #4 in powder so get the pinweight correct at that setting first

 

[Jreng87]

I never messed with clickers on my stock set up once it was I initially set, and I don't plan to mess with that during the day between trail and off trail riding seems ridiculous to me. If that's the case I'll be returning to my stock clutching which is was happy with, but had heard so many great things about different clutch kits I thought I'd give them a try... All of my riding is 9-13k even from the trailer heads.


It didn't over rev on the trail before and hit 7900 in the powder too...

 

[DUKHTR3]

Stock setup will do the same thing. U will drop 200 rpm from trail to pow or at least my sleds have always.

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk

 

[Dynamo^Joe]

13.6 grams

Clicker 3

7900 on trail, 7500 off trail

Moved to clicker 4

8000 on trail

7600 off

Something wrong.
13.6 to 13.9 grams is for say 8500~10500 feet
800etec clicker #3 with 441 or My ramps.
Should tach at 8000~8050 on hardpack full throttle acceleration then in deep snow at 7900~7950 rpms

The #1 problem with the kit is the helix gets installed wrong @ 90 degrees.
The #2 problem with the kit is the white swivel washer does not get installed in the new helix.

Please go look at the secondary clutch and see if the arrow on the helix is lined up with the arrow on the sheave.
The difference in arrow clock rotations can be from 1200 to 1100 or 1200 to 100
But not 1200 - 300 or 1200 - 900 - this will destroy the helix and rollers.

Take the belt change tool and screw it in to push the helix in.
With one finger, push down on the belt so the belt drops in the secondary clutch- the secondary should stay open now.
Unwind the belt change tool right out.
Pull back the large thin washer out against the belt adjuster clamp (With gold bolt)
Look in any of the holes on the flat of the helix that the washer covers - Question, do you see a "white" color, yes or no?

Next - if you have 2012, 2013, 2014 800etec and happen to change the spark plugs with new ones from the dealer - go put the old ones back in. The latest replacement spark plugs for a 15 and 16 do not work correctly on the earlier models and will reveal 7700~7800 rpms.
Do not go by the part number - only go by the model number on the plug.

Next question - was there any change made on the sled anywhere from last season to this season before you put the kit in, and i mean spark plugs, spark plug caps or even a sticker on the side of the panel.
Like I say...something wrong that's either incorrect install or something causing engine to not run correctly. You have the correct flyweight for the elevations you run at.

 

[Jreng87]

Thanks Joe...

I know the helix washer was installed, I used your freeze in the snow method to get it out.

I will double check the helix install but I marked everything before taking things apart and during the install.


No changes were made to sled other than the kit. I just installed the kit two days ago and the sled before that was pulling 7900 at all conditions.

Just puzzled at to why it will hit 8000 on trail but it in the powder, other than load

 

[powdermuncher]

I would tear it all apart again and make sure everything is perfect to spec and all the correct parts are installed . Personally did several of these kits and never had to mess with them. It s a bummer when you find some strange issues like that but there is a reason just a matter of finding it.