disconnecting the kill switch

[Lorduss]

having a teather and a key, this 3rd option is more of a liability than anything, i pulled the wire going to it on my edge chassie and glad i did, this wiring looks a bit different, how can i disconnect this red button on my pro chassie sled? do things work the same way?

 

[rvt22]

The red kill switch on the handlebar is now wired to the TPS to operate the kill system if the throttle bodies freeze up and shuts off unit. Just unplugging kill switch on the handlebars will not work. Will cause a defect code in ECU.

 

[tdorval]

I've unplugged mine for a while now with no issues. I looked into it quite a bit and some people thought the same as rvt but someone cleared up that you can just unplug the kill switch. I forgot which wire I unplugged but it was a single wire, make sure its not the TSS you unplug and you are good to go. At least I was, along with a few others that were sick of worrying about broken kill switches...

 

[rvt22]

If the unit is a CFI, {cleanfire} unit, unplugging the complete kill switch, all three wires, unit will not run, if you just unplug the single wire to the button only will and leave the other two wires, one ground and the other goes through the little pin switch in the throttle lever housing to the TPS, unit will run but have no kill button. If we unplug all three wires, coming from switch, unit has NO spark. All Cleanfire units CFI-2 or CFI-4 work the same. Hope this helps your question. If you unplug complete plug and try to start unit, and then hook to Digital Wrench, "Throttle Stuck " error will come up in Historic Codes, if still unhooked when scanned, will come up as a "Current Code". Hopes this helps..

 

[Lorduss]

were is the plug it self? or what color is the wire im disconnecting? i have singled out the tube it self going to the throttle housing, but not sure how to attack it.

thanks for the info so far.

 

[dschwindt]

The plug for this is in the bundle below the handlebars. In the velcrod bag. I unhooked mine as well as I run a tether also, have not had an issue in 2 years on my 2011.

 

[jzanc532]

I've seen people just put a zip tie around the bottom so it can't be pushed down.

 

[robertyoke]

I've seen people just put a zip tie around the bottom so it can't be pushed down.

o-ring works good too

 

[Ski-Dont89]

If the unit is a CFI, {cleanfire} unit, unplugging the complete kill switch, all three wires, unit will not run, if you just unplug the single wire to the button only will and leave the other two wires, one ground and the other goes through the little pin switch in the throttle lever housing to the TPS, unit will run but have no kill button. If we unplug all three wires, coming from switch, unit has NO spark. All Cleanfire units CFI-2 or CFI-4 work the same. Hope this helps your question. If you unplug complete plug and try to start unit, and then hook to Digital Wrench, "Throttle Stuck " error will come up in Historic Codes, if still unhooked when scanned, will come up as a "Current Code". Hopes this helps..

not true...i completely disconnected mine on my cfi 4 and have had zero issues

 

[BigWill]

We just put a sheep or cattle castration rubber band around the bottom. Keeps it from being pushed down accidentally but you can still use it with a bit of effort if you need

 

[pokey76]

Ladies hair tie works great for no accidental push. That way you still have a kill. Very good and cheap.

 

[ReTodd]

If the unit is a CFI, {cleanfire} unit, unplugging the complete kill switch, all three wires, unit will not run, if you just unplug the single wire to the button only will and leave the other two wires, one ground and the other goes through the little pin switch in the throttle lever housing to the TPS, unit will run but have no kill button. If we unplug all three wires, coming from switch, unit has NO spark. All Cleanfire units CFI-2 or CFI-4 work the same. Hope this helps your question. If you unplug complete plug and try to start unit, and then hook to Digital Wrench, "Throttle Stuck " error will come up in Historic Codes, if still unhooked when scanned, will come up as a "Current Code". Hopes this helps..

This is true, trust me...been there and done that. Zip tie it open and use your tether.

Rt

 

[winter brew]

Fly billet momentary switch and fastrax throttle safety switch delete.

 

[himark1]

An old window rubber off a wedge, genII or edge sleds work perfect, used this method since early '90's

 

[himark1]

And you can still push it down with some effort if you hold it for a second.

 

[whittaker727]

Check out Scooter's boosted pro on YouTube his Pro has the switch completely removed and the hole covered with duct tape. It works fine

 

[EricW]

I added a tether and bypassed the OEM kill on last years sled and 3 of this years so far. I don't remember any "3" wires though, maybe that was actually the TSS? I'm no guru but all I did was find the two wire connector near the steering post (blue/black or white was one of them) and cut the wires above the two wire all weather connector. Look into the kill block and you can see the two wires going to the kill. Unhook those two where I stated and check continuity going up to the kill. If your multi-meter beeps with the kill you have the right ones. I then plugged it back in once confirmed and added my tether to the wires on the kill side of the connector leaving the wires to the OEM kill diked and hanging.

So far so good on 4 Pro sleds. Good luck. EW

Edit: two wires were blue/black and black inside the Velcro cover at the steering post.