Diesel in Winter

[XC500mod]

i just got my first diesel. '16 crew cab 2500HD.

i live in the midwest and it's looking to be pretty cold this week. -10 F

at what temperature are you guys putting on the grill cover?

when would you plug it in at night?

thanks guys, if you have any other diesel advice let me know.

 

[Drewd]

CONGRATS ON YOUR FIRST DIESEL! I'm very happy and excited for you.

I have 3 diesels in my driveway.

I never put a grill cover on any of them. I drive mostly highway and they stay warm on the interstate under load. The engine coolant temp does drop significantly on long red lights and in city driving. If I was towing and/or driving on the highway, I wouldn't use it. For city driving, I would consider their use.

Plugging in a diesel anytime it is below freezing is a great idea. It will result in quicker starts and less engine and starter wear.

With that said, I only plug in one of my diesels which has old glow plugs and a 4 year old battery. It allows it to start quicker.

For the others, I have started them as low as -20 deg F without any problems but I do allow them to idle about 5 minutes before driving away. I use 5w40 in 2 of them and 0w40 in the smaller diesel in the winter.

I do use anti-gel fuel additive in my diesels though the fuel here is already winterized.

If you dont' plug in your diesel and start it at a very cold temperature, don't be alarmed by the engine sound which I describe as "marbles in the motor". Diesels typically advance engine timing when cold and that increases the clatter sound a little which isn't as bad as the pre-piezo injector days.

A quick note: On diesels with higher mileage, I find that waiting another 5-10 seconds after the 3-4 second glow plug light goes out results in faster starts. Another tip I've used when real cold is to cycle the glow plugs more than once before starting.

If you have 15w40 in your engine, consider a lighter grade oil. Many now allow 5w40 and I use it year round with great wear numbers when I send in an oil sample for analysis.

I drain my fuel filter more often in colder weather to eliminate risk of any water caught by it freezing.

 

[gonehuntnpowder]

If it's a duramax there is a sensor in the cord that won't flow electricity to the heater above 0.

 

[Drewd]

If it's a duramax there is a sensor in the cord that won't flow electricity to the heater above 0.

From what I understand, you can cut the sensor plug off and install a regular 120V AC plug. However, if you do this above 0 deg F you may get a check engine light and possibly go into limp mode. I've heard that plugging in the heater for 4 hours when temps are above 0 degrees F eliminates this problem but I'm not 100% sure.

I've owned several VW TDIs over the years and I installed 1500 watt coolant heaters in them by zerostart. I loved the fact that I had instant heat in cooler weather. If I didn't do this, the little VW diesel engine would take 20 miles to get up to operating temp on the interstate....this sucked when it was very cold.

My Ford 350 has electric heat that heats up the cabin fairly quick and that coupled with heated seats and steering wheel make for a comfortable cold experience .

 

[GreenState]

I've got an '06 Duramax for a sled hauler. I've never had a issue with it not starting, even in sub zero temps in locations I couldn't plug in.

The issue I had with cold temps was actually in the transmission. At really cold temps, the oil viscosity in the Allison is so thick that it won't shift into gear properly, which will cause a transmission related CEL and put the truck into limp mode.

I added a Wolverine Heater to the bottom of the transmission and have the plug going to a cord splitter along with the block heater so that one plug will run them both. Since then I've never had an issue.

 

[Knox]

As said before, grill covers are only a must in city and low mileage, low speed situations, I had an 07 Duramax and the grill cover sucked it had absolutely no ventilation whatsoever so I would at times even overheat just driving. I am not sure if they have since changed the design, if they haven't I wouldn't worry about putting it on at all

 

[XC500mod]

Thanks guys, sounds like there isn't much to do in the cold. I'll consider plugging it in if it's below zero, but sounds like i don't need to.

i've got a couple more questions. when are you doing oil changes? i've got 5,000 miles of hwy driving since the last oil change, but the oil life says 58%. i really don't want to waste my time changing it if i don't have to.

 

[LoudHandle]

I have an '05 Duramax here in Alaska and treat it just like a gas rig. Never plug it in and never wait for the glow plugs to cycle. Always roars to life at the slightest turn of the key. Owned it for 2-3 years before I even noticed the glow plug indicator on the dash. FWIW

P.S. I don't have a grill cover for her either.

 

[GreenState]

Thanks guys, sounds like there isn't much to do in the cold. I'll consider plugging it in if it's below zero, but sounds like i don't need to.

i've got a couple more questions. when are you doing oil changes? i've got 5,000 miles of hwy driving since the last oil change, but the oil life says 58%. i really don't want to waste my time changing it if i don't have to.

I go by the oil life rather than a set mileage.

 

[Reg2view]

FWIW, when I'm not towing, my 07 LBZ runs best with the winter front, upper only, when the temp hits 30F or lower. If I'm not towing, truck will not reach 180 without the upper front below 30F. At temps below 10F, it also keeps the Allison nice and warm, eliminating cold shift issues (and I'm running pure Transync in the Allison). LLYs and LBZs have a larger radiator than LB7s. If you use a winter front, NEVER run it when towing, it restricts air intake and will starve boost, not to mention start to get hot. Run 5w-40, it will turn over easier. My truck has never failed to start, 160k miles, since new. I only plug it in when temps go to -20F if I can easily, just less wear and faster warmup. It's not a 7.3 Ford. The 0F and engine heater plug in issues are real. I've never gotten a CEL from engine heater, but my friends have. I just seldom have to plug in the truck.


Fuel additives depend if I'm on the open road, or fuel locally and know the fuel quality, and temps. I do have a 50W semi filter heater wrap on my fuel filter - FWIW, the Dmax filter head heater is thermostat controlled, and will shut off at engine temp. First two winters I gelled twice, before I had the filter wrap, at full operating temp, with air temp at -25F, towing. Both times after fueling on the open road, after double dosing additive. Had the head flow tested for restrictions, and tested fine. Did I get some bad fuel, bio-fuel, etc., probably. Said F-it, and just put a real filter heater on it, with a cab switch. I use it less than 10 times per winter, but I know my stock filter will NEVER gel again. Complete filter wrap, wiring, switch cost all of $50. JMPE. Good luck.

 

[Reg2view]

I'm running Mobil 1, change every 7-9k miles or so, do it more by mileage and convenience than indicator, but keep an eye on the indicator. With oil sampling, I've seen these trucks go to 15k miles before a needed change. I just don't wait than long. Only once has my indicator gone off before 7k miles (you'll get a message in the DIC).


FYI, one other insight. Glow plugs continue to heat the combustion chamber after startup - watch your voltmeter, and you'll see them still pulling amps after startup for 2-5 minutes cold. I learned from other trucks that letting the motor warm up at idle, fast or normal, before putting a real load on it, until the glow plugs shut down adds lots of life to the glow plugs. Watch your voltmeter when it's cold, and you'll see it creep to normal output after startup, and you'll see what I mean.

 

[Drewd]

I'm running Mobil 1, change every 7-9k miles or so, do it more by mileage and convenience than indicator, but keep an eye on the indicator. With oil sampling, I've seen these trucks go to 15k miles before a needed change. I just don't wait than long. Only once has my indicator gone off before 7k miles (you'll get a message in the DIC).


FYI, one other insight. Glow plugs continue to heat the combustion chamber after startup - watch your voltmeter, and you'll see them still pulling amps after startup for 2-5 minutes cold. I learned from other trucks that letting the motor warm up at idle, fast or normal, before putting a real load on it, until the glow plugs shut down adds lots of life to the glow plugs. Watch your voltmeter when it's cold, and you'll see it creep to normal output after startup, and you'll see what I mean.

This is called afterglow and I concur that my ceramic glow plugs last longer then other folks by not driving until the afterglow cycle is turned off. Whatever you do, don't hammer a cold diesel engine. Cylinder liner wear occurs most during a cold start for reasons I'm not smart enough to fully understand-hydrodynamic friction forces versus asperity friction forces, gas blowby, variable density and viscosity of lubricant, the cylinder surface roughness, friction heat flux,elastic deformation, and increased fuel dilution when engine is cold (mumbo jumbo to me)

On my 6.7L Ford I'm now at 7500 mile oil change intervals unless the oil monitor tells me to do it sooner. My first oil change was at 5k miles though. 90% of my mileage is towing a fifth wheeler on the interstate and oil monitor so far supports this oil change interval. I do very little city driving with my truck unless it is to run to Home Depot for stuff.

On my SUV diesels, I'm at 10,000 mile oil change intervals which are supported by my driving style and oil analysis lab reports.

Most important thing you can do is change your fuel filter. My truck's gets a fuel filter change every 10k and filter bowl is drained every month to prevent water buildup-none yet so I guess the fuel I'm using is good. I try to fill up at high volume diesel stations such as truck stops.

My other diesels are out of warranty and I change their fuel filters every other oil change, e.g. 20k miles. One of my diesel SUVs has an aftermarket commercial duty fuel filter and it is oversized for the 2.8L engine and could probably go twice as far but filters are much cheaper than high pressure fuel pumps which don't tolerate water and dirty fuel.

 

[Blk88GT]

If you have the ability to monitor intake air temperature while trailering, you'll know when it's time to take the winter front off..... Canary in the coal mine

 

[catrider800]

i just got my first diesel. '16 crew cab 2500HD.

i live in the midwest and it's looking to be pretty cold this week. -10 F

at what temperature are you guys putting on the grill cover?

when would you plug it in at night?

thanks guys, if you have any other diesel advice let me know.

My 16' Duramax starts/runs/drives way better upon initial startup in the cold than my 03' ever did. I swear my 03 would barely move without shaking and smoking until it idled for at least 5-10 minutes. The 16' just pulls away smooth like a gasser. That being said, I would put the winter front on if you do a lot of slower speed driving or are not going long distances to let the motor warmup faster. If you plug it in, plug it into a timer to kick on an hour or so before you plan to leave so you are not paying to heat the engine for times you don't really need to. Honestly, with how mine has been it would probably be just fine if you didn't do anything at all as well.

 

[GlennRMK]

IMO, its silly not to plug it in if the temp is below 20 deg F if you have access to power. Cold starts are one of the hardest things on an engine. I always plug in. I use a timer and set it for 4-6 hours depending how cold it.

I plug in my gas rigs at the same temps

Its much easier on the truck to plug it in, plus you will get heat way faster and won't have to idle the truck as long to warm it up.

I've run in temps as low as -37 F without any issues (knock on wood). I do use Power Service when its below zero.

 

[capulin overdrive]

Treat your fuel for gel!


I don't trust any supplier anymore, and the treat is cheaper than the trainwreck if you ever do gel up.

 

[XC500mod]

thanks for the responses guys.

what is the best treatment to stop gelling?

 

[007]

I have had 2 gmc durmaxs one a 02 and the other 05. Now I went to a dodge. On all three I have run a winter front for driving while not towing and if I'm towing I keep it on if it's below 10* or so. Never had motor or trans get hot and you will know instantly if you need to pull it off. Keeping the motor warm or at operating temp is a good thing!

One thing on my duramaxs the did like fuel filters changed often like every 15k.

Someone else mentioned power serve fuel additive. Once temps drop below zero I always pour a couple glugs in every fuel stop. Cheap insurance and I've never had a gel problem.

 

[capulin overdrive]

thanks for the responses guys.

what is the best treatment to stop gelling?

Howes and Schaeffer are both highly regarded, but there's other good stuff out there. Just make sure and know the freeze point of the treat you run, as some companies including Schaeffer make several deferent treats.

 

[LoudHandle]

Does the lower 48 not switch to #1 Diesel in winter?

Please excuse my lower 48 ignorance; but living in Alaska for 36 plus years. As a rule we switch from #2 diesel for summer to #1 diesel for winter, long before there is any chance of gelling. This occurs at the distribution level so everything is switched over (home heating fuel, everything at the pump, etc.).

Gelling is really not an issue nor a concern, even at our temperature extremes (-60 or more). Guessing the lower 48 does not do the same?

I've never run any fancy additives, nor anti-gelling agents. It all sounds a little like the snake oil salesman. In My Experience, FWIW
I have / will throw a quart of ATF in the tank about once a year for non-intrusive injector maintenance.

P.S.
Changed my fuel filter once, because I bought the truck used with about 100K on it. Now has about 180K on it. And has consumed about 11,500 (counter resets at 10K) Gallons of diesel since new. If I had to change the fuel filter every 15K, I'd be finding a cleaner supplier to purchase from, because whatever diesel your buying has way more particulate / water in it than it should have. 15K is ridicules. IMO