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diesel cold starting

Hello, I have a 01 F-350 and I have been having problems starting it when its cold if it say less than 25 degrees out and has sat for more than 10 hours it just won't plane start. This has been a problem when I am at work and cannot have it plugged in. Is there anything I can do that will make it start better in the cold weather. Not to mention I don't want to be stranded on a mt. because my truck won't start.

Thanks
 
Diesel Rag Intake

Get rubber gloves on, rag soak in diesel fuel, wring out a bit wrap around intake of truck air intake, good and tight, crank truck over for 15 seconds, then let sit (time it) for bout a minute no kidding) then remove rag start er up. Hope it works for you, This worked out in Baltic sea in **** cold weather out in the Oil rigs starting the diesel gens. Good Luck Mike
 
The glow plug relay is a likely problem with symptoms like that. You cans search the web and find a video on how to jump across it with a screwdriver an if it starts then there is your problem. I haven't done it in a while but f I remember right you just jump the two large lugs on the relay, which allows your glow plugs to function. They are about 50 bucks to replace also


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I am using 5/40 synthetic. My batteries are about 5 years old. I think I'm going to buy new batteries and install a new relay. Its sounding like that's the issue. Thanks for replies.
 
glowplugs/ glowplug relay are pretty common issue on the ol 7.3, most people i know with a 7.3 pack a spare relay in the truck at all times just for that reason. plus its not recommended for regular use but for emergencies a can of starting fluid does wonders for waking up theold fords. might not be a bad idea to keep a can in the truck, could be the difference between gettin home or sleeping on the hill.
 
Need more info.
Is it cranking fast or slow?
Does it start just fine when plugged in?
5w-40 synthetic does make it start and run better when below 32°.
U can go to an auto parts store and have ur batteries tested for free.
To test the glow plug relay all u need is a test light or volt meter. With the key on(for the first minute) u should have power on both large posts.
There are 2 relays next to each other. One is for the glow plugs and the other is for the intake heater. Don't worry about the intake heater its only used during idle.
If u have power coming out of the glowplug relay it might be ur glow plugs. U need an ohm meter to test them. U can test them at the valve cover gasket.
If it cranks really slow it could be the starter, batteries, or even just dirty cables.

Riden the Yamacat
 
Need more info.
Is it cranking fast or slow?
Does it start just fine when plugged in?
5w-40 synthetic does make it start and run better when below 32°.
U can go to an auto parts store and have ur batteries tested for free.
To test the glow plug relay all u need is a test light or volt meter. With the key on(for the first minute) u should have power on both large posts.
There are 2 relays next to each other. One is for the glow plugs and the other is for the intake heater. Don't worry about the intake heater its only used during idle.
If u have power coming out of the glowplug relay it might be ur glow plugs. U need an ohm meter to test them. U can test them at the valve cover gasket.
If it cranks really slow it could be the starter, batteries, or even just dirty cables.

Riden the Yamacat

It cranks slower the colder it is.
Starts fine when plugged in.
I'm going to order new cables next week. They are pretty corroded.
 
My old 7.3 when running 5-40 synthetic with fresh batteries would spin fine down to -20f. Faster actually than it did at +30 with delo 400. It would generally always start to -40f without plugging it in. Worst I ever did to the poor thing was a cold start at -52f actual. It really surprised me that it popped off at that temp. Like said above, sounds like without a doubt your relay is shot. Without it working, anything below about +40 they start becoming a bear to start. Also mentioned above, should you lose one you can just jump across the two large terminals with a screw driver. Hold it for about 20-30 seconds and hit the key. It should pop right off. Lastly, avoid starter fluid. It can do bad things. I use the rag trick, but split the difference. Soak the rag with gasoline. More volitale than diesel, but not as bad as starting fluid. Used only as a last resort.
 
Diesels need to turn over much faster than gas engines. Even more so when its cold.
If the engine is warm it will start with one battery. If its cold the one battery won't be able to crank the engine over fast enough to start.
Disconnect the ground cable from the driver side battery. Now check the voltage at each battery. Full charge should be 12.5v. If its close to 11.8v that is a dead battery.
Take some baking soda and water and clean ur battery cables. As long as the corrosion is not inside the insulation I wouldnt spend the $100 on new cables. Just clean the ends.

Riden the Yamacat
 
Good point summit. If a 7.3 isn't spinning at 900 rpm or higher the crank sensor won't fire up. You can spin it at 899 all day long and use every trick in the book and it will never start. 901 and you're off and running....
 
Diesels need to turn over much faster than gas engines. Even more so when its cold.
If the engine is warm it will start with one battery. If its cold the one battery won't be able to crank the engine over fast enough to start.
Disconnect the ground cable from the driver side battery. Now check the voltage at each battery. Full charge should be 12.5v. If its close to 11.8v that is a dead battery.
Take some baking soda and water and clean ur battery cables. As long as the corrosion is not inside the insulation I wouldnt spend the $100 on new cables. Just clean the ends.

Riden the Yamacat

When I clean them with baking soda and water do I need to let them completely dry before reconnecting them or just dried as good as I can get with a rag. Also do I need to scrub them or just soak and wipe off.

Thanks
 
I HIGHLY suspect the problem is the glow plug relay. They do go out super easy. The stock (and parts store replacement) relays are rated for intermittent use, and because of that, they wear out super quickly. The relay on my 7.3 went out just after I bought it 3 years ago, and I replaced it with a Stancor that is rated for 200 amps continuous. Only a little more expensive than the stocker, but I have never heard of anybody wearing one of these out. Very common mod on the 7.3, surprised nobody mentioned it yet. Heck, when you enter Stancor into Google, it suggests multiple searches related to the 7.3, including the model number needed. Here's a link to a how to: http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/s_gpr.php
 
When I clean them with baking soda and water do I need to let them completely dry before reconnecting them or just dried as good as I can get with a rag. Also do I need to scrub them or just soak and wipe off.

Thanks

Apply the baking soda on to the corroded parts then add just enough water to wet the baking soda and lt it set for a couple minutes. Use a small brush and scrub the bad spots then rinse well with water. Blow off with air if possible Then reconnect.

Riden the Yamacat
 
My 7.3 was the starter. I falsely replaced both battery's thinking that was the problem. Had a shop that knew their stuff and they tested the starter and found it wasn't cranking over fast enough. New starter and problem solved.
 
My 7.3 was the starter. I falsely replaced both battery's thinking that was the problem. Had a shop that knew their stuff and they tested the starter and found it wasn't cranking over fast enough. New starter and problem solved.

Starter is easy to test with inline amp meter. First make sure batteries are 12.5 v(and load test batteries individually) then make sure all connections are clean and have good contact including the ground cables on the engine. Then u test the amps drawn while cranking.
Most diesel mechanics can listen to the starter and tell u if its cranking fast enough.

Riden the Yamacat
 
Diesels need to turn over much faster than gas engines. Even more so when its cold.
If the engine is warm it will start with one battery. If its cold the one battery won't be able to crank the engine over fast enough to start.
Disconnect the ground cable from the driver side battery. Now check the voltage at each battery. Full charge should be 12.5v. If its close to 11.8v that is a dead battery.
Take some baking soda and water and clean ur battery cables. As long as the corrosion is not inside the insulation I wouldnt spend the $100 on new cables. Just clean the ends.

Riden the Yamacat

I replaced my gpr the other day with the stancor one I bought and it seems to have helped a little. Tested my batteries today and one is 11.84 and the other is 11.89. My cables are toast with how much corrosion is on them so I'm getting those replaced with brand new ones friday then sat going to buy new batteries for my shiny cables to connect to. Thanks for all your help.

Levi
 
Like others have said, its the glowplugs. Do yourself a favor and do NOT buy cheap chain store glow plugs spend the extra money and buy OEM. I believe Ford uses Bera, some of the more experienced diesel guys can confirm the name. There not hard to replace on the older trucks.
 
I replaced my gpr the other day with the stancor one I bought and it seems to have helped a little. Tested my batteries today and one is 11.84 and the other is 11.89. My cables are toast with how much corrosion is on them so I'm getting those replaced with brand new ones friday then sat going to buy new batteries for my shiny cables to connect to. Thanks for all your help.

Levi

I hope that fixes it for ya.
My batteries are getting weak. 12.2v and 12.3 v.
Load test was 100cca lower than new spec.
When I first turn the key on in the morning (15° f)and glowplugs are on my volt meter reads 10.6 then while cranking im down to 9.8v.
When above 32° key on with glowplugs im at 11.6v and cranking 10.8v.
The cranking speed is a couple hundred more rpm with the extra volt.

Riden the Yamacat
 
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