DET

[SLDHVN]

I have had 2 ok rides(low snow, bad numbers for my elevation), and 2 amazing rides(new numbers) now on my 2011 BD kit with the intercooler upgrade.

the sled ran great in the am, i had it up to 8 lbs flawlessly.

In the second half of the day i noticed twice when i jumped the sled it sounded funny like it bogged or something right when/after i landed.

i thought nothing of it, maybe from sucking in hot air under the hood? and i could not get it to do it more than the two times i noticed it.

then i noticed on the trail out that my parking brake light would stay on randomly or flicker?

then i noticed my ebc was acting up, it wasnt showing the amount of boost when in the throttle, and it had the set boost turned way down, like 5-6 pounds from what it should be.

i got into it once and hit det(never have before now), then i was able to make it do the same thing again. the whole time my parking break light was flickering on and off, even when i wasnt on the brake.

my stats screen said i was still hitting 6-7 pounds of boost, but the ebc was only showing like 2 on the set boost screen, and not showing boost in real time like it normally does when on the throttle.

so my questions are...
1. is it possible the tail light wiring could be rubbed through causing the sled to act funny?
2. has my ebc gone screwy, or is it probably caused by the tail light wires?
3. would the ebc symptoms be possibly caused by the line coming off the ebc that just vents to atmosphere be plugged with snow?

nothing has changed on the sled, except i changed from ngk non-irridium plugs on the trail out(before most of the issues occurred), to the ngk irridium plugs. maybe i didnt get one of them tight?

any ideas? i really want to get this sled ripping again, it hasnt had an issue before now and the thing is really pretty user friendly, and this sled on boost is amazing.

Thanks,
Andrew

p.s. sorry for the long winded post, if it is easier to talk on the phone my cell is 406-261-2232. Also, i havent had a chance to call Justin Barnes or BD yet, but i will today when i have some time, im sure they will have some info.

 

[gmustangt]

my brake light did that after i rolled it, ever since then i hear a winding noise coming from the brake.. guess the pads closed in on it?
Let me know what you find...

 

[SWEETXPBEATCH]

Add me to this list!

Having the same issues.
Low idle issues, DET, turned my EBC down to 2.0 and still read 8lbs on my boondocker box.

I have had 2 ok rides(low snow, bad numbers for my elevation), and 2 amazing rides(new numbers) now on my 2011 BD kit with the intercooler upgrade.

the sled ran great in the am, i had it up to 8 lbs flawlessly.

In the second half of the day i noticed twice when i jumped the sled it sounded funny like it bogged or something right when/after i landed.

i thought nothing of it, maybe from sucking in hot air under the hood? and i could not get it to do it more than the two times i noticed it.

then i noticed on the trail out that my parking brake light would stay on randomly or flicker?

then i noticed my ebc was acting up, it wasnt showing the amount of boost when in the throttle, and it had the set boost turned way down, like 5-6 pounds from what it should be.

i got into it once and hit det(never have before now), then i was able to make it do the same thing again. the whole time my parking break light was flickering on and off, even when i wasnt on the brake.

my stats screen said i was still hitting 6-7 pounds of boost, but the ebc was only showing like 2 on the set boost screen, and not showing boost in real time like it normally does when on the throttle.

so my questions are...
1. is it possible the tail light wiring could be rubbed through causing the sled to act funny?
2. has my ebc gone screwy, or is it probably caused by the tail light wires?
3. would the ebc symptoms be possibly caused by the line coming off the ebc that just vents to atmosphere be plugged with snow?

nothing has changed on the sled, except i changed from ngk non-irridium plugs on the trail out(before most of the issues occurred), to the ngk irridium plugs. maybe i didnt get one of them tight?

any ideas? i really want to get this sled ripping again, it hasnt had an issue before now and the thing is really pretty user friendly, and this sled on boost is amazing.

Thanks,
Andrew

p.s. sorry for the long winded post, if it is easier to talk on the phone my cell is 406-261-2232. Also, i havent had a chance to call Justin Barnes or BD yet, but i will today when i have some time, im sure they will have some info.

 

[dcturbo]

Your brake light has nothing to do with it.. A lot of brake switches up on the bars are sticking on the 11's. Once they dry up you should be back to normal.

As for the EBC I would look at your connections and disconnect them and double check each individual wire and make sure they did not pull out. Make sure to blow them dry and use dielectric grease when you put them back together.
Another thing I have seen where the EBC goes wacky.. is the capacitor looses the amperage to fast.. and needed to be replaced. This may go even deeper into the electrical things. The Pro's don't seem to be able to put out as much electrical power as the older dragons did.

Also check for a boost leak.. With you jumping you may have knocked the intercooler loose.???

And of course check you ground wire!!!

good luck
DC

 

[Boston Racing]

Having the same issues.
Low idle issues, DET, turned my EBC down to 2.0 and still read 8lbs on my boondocker box.

The boost controller works by bleeding off pressure. It cannot make less boost than the wastegate will allow no matter what you set it to. It can only add boost above the wastegate threshold.

 

[dcturbo]

Having the same issues.
Low idle issues, DET, turned my EBC down to 2.0 and still read 8lbs on my boondocker box.

The issue with you still seeing 8#'s is because the spring in the wastegate is an 8 # spring so that is the lowest boost you can run with that spring.
You can get a lighter spring if you would like to run less boost.

Det is usually caused by not enough octane in the gas for the boost you are running..
Are you running the 3 degree retarding module?
Whats your elevation and what gas are you running?
50/50 is the minimum you should run IMO!! You have to get good premium gas and try to get the gas from the same place each time to keep it consistent. and run either AV or Snoco 110.
At my elevation I can run 50/50 Av and prem. up to 8.5#'s safely any higher and I need to add more Av. (8-11k)

 

[SLDHVN]

The issue with you still seeing 8#'s is because the spring in the wastegate is an 8 # spring so that is the lowest boost you can run with that spring.
You can get a lighter spring if you would like to run less boost.

Det is usually caused by not enough octane in the gas for the boost you are running..
Are you running the 3 degree retarding module?
Whats your elevation and what gas are you running?
50/50 is the minimum you should run IMO!! You have to get good premium gas and try to get the gas from the same place each time to keep it consistent. and run either AV or Snoco 110.
At my elevation I can run 50/50 Av and prem. up to 8.5#'s safely any higher and I need to add more Av. (8-11k)

i am at 5000 and above, still running straight av for safety sake, for now.

 

[dcturbo]

i am at 5000 and above, still running straight av for safety sake, for now.

Octane should not be the issue then......
Where are you on the throttle when it DET's? lo mid high?
What are your #'s in the throttle position when it det's?
ie... 3/4 throttle roughly 7600 rpm.
lo... 25
mid. 34
high 35

Have you gone into supertune mode? if so what is the # in the CR?

 

[SLDHVN]

Octane should not be the issue then......
Where are you on the throttle when it DET's? lo mid high?
What are your #'s in the throttle position when it det's?
ie... 3/4 throttle roughly 7600 rpm.
lo... 25
mid. 34
high 35

Have you gone into supertune mode? if so what is the # in the CR?

mid to hi on the throttle

i have the BD numbers in the box
i will look again tonight, but i have a solid 50 miles on this current tuning with no issues so im not sold on the fact its the numbers.

the brake light was flickering on and off when i was in and out of the throttle while everything was haywire on the way back to the truck.

its got to be something electrical i would think, mainly i am wondering if the tail light wires rubbed through if they could cause this type of issue?

i will try to get a better look tonight or tomorrow night

thanks

 

[SLDHVN]

Just got off the phone with Justin Barnes

as usual, he had some good ideas to start with and also helped confirm my idea on the tail light wires.

should have an update tomorrow night on what i find, no time tonight.

Thanks

Dcturbo, i tried calling back, give me a shout when ya get time

 

[SWEETXPBEATCH]

I am running a non-intercooled BD turbo

I am new to the BD turbo, so appreciate your patience.
I have the non-intercooled kit and my installer told me I would be running 6lbs or so at max with the settings he sent me off with.
That said, I am running 3or so gallons of 104 Octane with 91 Octane mix as well as the timing retard module on the sled.
The symptoms started with 2-3 burps at sustained 3/4 or WOT and seemed to progress worse over the next two rides. The low idle issues with cold starts and constant over revving, DET issues since.

The issue with you still seeing 8#'s is because the spring in the wastegate is an 8 # spring so that is the lowest boost you can run with that spring.
You can get a lighter spring if you would like to run less boost.

Det is usually caused by not enough octane in the gas for the boost you are running..
Are you running the 3 degree retarding module?
Whats your elevation and what gas are you running?
50/50 is the minimum you should run IMO!! You have to get good premium gas and try to get the gas from the same place each time to keep it consistent. and run either AV or Snoco 110.
At my elevation I can run 50/50 Av and prem. up to 8.5#'s safely any higher and I need to add more Av. (8-11k)

 

[dustybitton10]

Sounds like your TPS is going out. That is what happened on mine

 

[skibreeze]

I had some issues on my '11 and it looks like the TPS voltage was too low. I'd check that, as it is a possible culprit. If that is off, it throws the stock ecu off as well as the control box.

 

[SLDHVN]

I had some time this afternoon to finally look at the sled.

Everything seems to be in good order.

my intercooler did have a spot where you could see it had contacted the steering hoop tower on the left side, so that may explain my det problem, but still not the ebc problem.

I was looking over all of my turbo kit power connections and im confused now.

The instructions on BD's website say....
for the intercooled kit, step #30 says the fan booster board plugs into AC PWR right on the steering hoop, but when you look at the intercooled wireing diagram it says the fan booster board plugs into DC PWR. WTF???

http://www.boondockers.com/instructions/snow/polaris/turbo/pro_rmk_intercooled_120111.pdf

FYI-I also just talked to Justin Barnes, he confirmed that the fan booster board converts AC to DC pwr so it should be plugged in on the steering hoop

Right Now I have the EBC Harness(which feeds the EBC, Oil Pump, and Boost Solenoid) plugged into the DC PWR plug on the clutch side shock tower. The Fan booster Board is plugged into the AC PWR plug on the top of the steering hoop. My EGT gauge is plugged into the plug that is underneath the headlight.

And my theory of the tail light harness is yet to be busted/proved until tonight when i can drill out all of the rivets that hold the cover for the harness on the back half of the tunnel. Although, under the gas tank, the harness did look ok.

I also noticed my spark plugs were tight(so i didnt det because they were loose), and the plugs looked fine(no speckles), but i think the wires were backwards on the plugs.

The chassis ground on the clutch cover was tight also, so that shouldnt have caused any issues.

P.S.- I do have a TPS on the throttle bodies that came off my 2010 Dragon, if it would swap out fine.i just checked the part numbers at babbits, and they would swap out.

 

[Arcteryx]

I also noticed my spark plugs were tight(so i didnt det because they were loose), and the plugs looked fine(no speckles), but i think the wires were backwards on the plugs.
[/COLOR]

Can't this cause big problems??

 

[skibreeze]

Drilling out rivets? Just unplug the connector by the front of the gas tank.

 

[SLDHVN]

Can't this cause big problems??

i believe that is correct

Drilling out rivets? Just unplug the connector by the front of the gas tank.

yes, but my concern was that the sled had a previously damaged tunnel, which is why i was thinking that was the issue, I was wrong, everything looked perfect.

i rode the sled this evening and it worked great, it popped and bogged a few times, but im sure my numbers in the control box are well rich of what they should be for this elevation(im atleast 2k low from where we usually ride).

i will ride the sled tomorrow and report back,hopefully all is well, cus the snow is deeeeeep! cough cough, i mean the snow sucks, stay home.

thanks

 

[SLDHVN]

Rode the sled yesterday....

On about 7 lbs, 7000 ish feet, straight Av, this thing is a mean SOB.

Didnt give me any trouble and ran like a raped ape! Still playing with plugs to see what the sled likes best, yesterday i used the NGK Irridium's, worked well, but they did foul after a good stuck with a big cloud of steam next to the intake. Swapped for another set of the same plugs, and back to running like a mo-fo!

Now its time to back off the fuel a bit, gonna try 50 av-50 pump next time out. Also want to try the cold air intake.


Thanks for the help guys!