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DD Gearing Changes for 3" track on TM1000?

turboDS1300

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I've been running a 162" Challenger Extreme track (2.5" lug) for the past few seasons with very positive results on my TM1000. Running 8T drivers and 60/60 gearing in a stock '09 non-reverse case.

I'm going to switch to the BDX lite drive and a 3" track for this season. I have a BDX trackshaft with 7 tooth Avid's on the shelf and I'm wondering if I should switch to the 7T drivers (versus the 8 tooth) and if anyone has gearing changes/experience/recommendations on going from the 2.5" CE to the 3" Camo track. Obviously my gearing would be dependent on which driver setup I go with...just looking to gather some thoughts. Also if there was a noticeable impact on clutching?

Have those of you running the 3" with 8 tooth drivers found you have enough tunnel clearance, or is it worth running the 7 tooth drivers and then adding a little taller gearing? The sled runs strong and I'm confident it will pull the 3" fine, but if you have real world feedback, lets hear it.

Thanks for your time!
 
I've been running a 162" Challenger Extreme track (2.5" lug) for the past few seasons with very positive results on my TM1000. Running 8T drivers and 60/60 gearing in a stock '09 non-reverse case.

I'm going to switch to the BDX lite drive and a 3" track for this season. I have a BDX trackshaft with 7 tooth Avid's on the shelf and I'm wondering if I should switch to the 7T drivers (versus the 8 tooth) and if anyone has gearing changes/experience/recommendations on going from the 2.5" CE to the 3" Camo track. Obviously my gearing would be dependent on which driver setup I go with...just looking to gather some thoughts. Also if there was a noticeable impact on clutching?

Have those of you running the 3" with 8 tooth drivers found you have enough tunnel clearance, or is it worth running the 7 tooth drivers and then adding a little taller gearing? The sled runs strong and I'm confident it will pull the 3" fine, but if you have real world feedback, lets hear it.

Thanks for your time!

just run 7,s dont gear up,
 
The track fits fine.. it rubs on the flat section where it kicks up.. not bad. I wouldn't gear up at all.. You will load that motor much harder with the 3 inch. So gearing down or smaller drivers is a must to avoid belt eating.

I sold my 3 inch and went back to 2 1/2 because it was a better fit for my riding.. 162 3" on a turbo sled is a wheelie monster, flip over backwards monster.. pick your poison :)
 
X2

I went from the 162 x3" to a 174 x2.5CE for the same reason on my Twisted Tm8.
 
M7Aerocharger

I would install the 7 lug drivers and gear up to maintain the same end result top speed. I love this track! Deep powder performance is exceptional and yes it does wheelie more but that is the result of traction vs track spin. There is a benefit to increaseing the clearance in the tunnel for snow evacuation and increased wind age from the larger paddles.
 
the 3" just started hitting dealers this last week but from looking at it you will have a 1/2" clearance with the 8T and about 3/4 on the 7 T
 
I ran a 162x3" last season

it fits fine with .25" of clearance in the tunnel with stock drivers.
 
I tried the 3 inch with no changes it worked ok first day on hard pack next time out in fresh snow I could feel every paddle going past the heat exchanger then the belt exploded. I put in the diamond lite changed the drivers and geared down the diamond lite. The sled worked awesome in the next two years I went through one belt and that was a 046. Just in belt savings alone it payed for the diamond lite and drivers. I wouldn't even consider a 3 inch on the mseries with out the changes, if the turbo upgrade was a 10 the 3 inch was a 9. I also put on a suspension coupler and it works excellent the skis barly skim the snow in a climb. The coupler is a cheep alternative to a Kmod or Timbersled skid it is by no means a replacement either way planting the front end is a must. Also on the trail go easy or you will tear off paddels.
 
I tried the 3 inch with no changes it worked ok first day on hard pack next time out in fresh snow I could feel every paddle going past the heat exchanger then the belt exploded. I put in the diamond lite changed the drivers and geared down the diamond lite. The sled worked awesome in the next two years I went through one belt and that was a 046. Just in belt savings alone it payed for the diamond lite and drivers. I wouldn't even consider a 3 inch on the mseries with out the changes, if the turbo upgrade was a 10 the 3 inch was a 9. I also put on a suspension coupler and it works excellent the skis barly skim the snow in a climb. The coupler is a cheep alternative to a Kmod or Timbersled skid it is by no means a replacement either way planting the front end is a must. Also on the trail go easy or you will tear off paddels.


Awesome to know! So what gearing is your DD lite?
 
I have been running the 3" for a couple of years now with stock size drivers and not had a bit of rubbing.
I do remember reading that using smaller drivers can make to much heat and cause the track to delaminate.
Last weekend I replaced my bulkhead and was able to see the inside of my tunnel and there wasn't any sign of rubbing.
I'm also running DD Lite HT 61/59 with track shaft.
I found that the boosted M1000 likes track speed and couldn't imagine gearing down.
I have only blown up one belt.
Just my opinion though.:)



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Have I understood correctly that the CE 3" is a little bit taller thatn the PC 3" track?




I'm not sure about the paddle length on the power claw but the difference between the old CE 3" and the latest lighter model the the old track once cut down is 15" and the new one is only 14" from paddle to paddle.
The belting that the paddles are laminated to is 15 wide though.


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these are from Country Cat page

http://countrycat.com/ccstore/index...-153-x-15-x-3-0-power-claw-80-duro-track.html
 
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