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Cutting a track to a desired width.

PJ-Hunter

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Has anyone done that? I have the Camoplast Challenger Extreme and it's 16" wide but the paddles are 15". Personally I find the 16 a hinderance. I'd like to cut it down to 15" without taking it off.

Any ideas or opinions?
 
I was thinking the same thing , I hate the vibration you get from them when your tunnels all iced up and rubbing on it because skidoo doesnt give enough clearance
 
I did do some grinding on my because it took out a few small nicks on the side, it gets real dirty doing it
 
I cut my 151 x 2" lugs down to 15" last year with noticable results. Single 1.25" port. Less snow/ice in tunnel, easier to side hill, and it feels like better track speed (no speedo).
I used a sabre saw with a wood blade to cut the lug down to the rod and a Roto Zip to make the 1/2" horizontal cut.

I also broke my track (no tool) and cut the outside lug down to the rod which really makes the track flex.

All of this with the sled hanging off the end of the trailer being supported by a post jack. I used a 3/16 bit to drill the rods from below 2" from the track edge and a wood saw blade in my sabre saw cutting down from the top of the lug to the rod. I did not bother to individually break each lug but rocked the sled side t side in the pl and went riding.

The most tedius work was using the sabre saw to make the vertical cuts as I had to roll the track by hand and had only enough room to make 2 cuts a turn/side.

I've had 6 days riding the broken track with no lug damage with much improved side hilling and counter steering and went everywhere I wanted to go with less effort.

BCB
 
I cut my 151 x 2" lugs down to 15" last year with noticable results. Single 1.25" port. Less snow/ice in tunnel, easier to side hill, and it feels like better track speed (no speedo).
I used a sabre saw with a wood blade to cut the lug down to the rod and a Roto Zip to make the 1/2" horizontal cut.

I also broke my track (no tool) and cut the outside lug down to the rod which really makes the track flex.

All of this with the sled hanging off the end of the trailer being supported by a post jack. I used a 3/16 bit to drill the rods from below 2" from the track edge and a wood saw blade in my sabre saw cutting down from the top of the lug to the rod. I did not bother to individually break each lug but rocked the sled side t side in the pl and went riding.

The most tedius work was using the sabre saw to make the vertical cuts as I had to roll the track by hand and had only enough room to make 2 cuts a turn/side.

I've had 6 days riding the broken track with no lug damage with much improved side hilling and counter steering and went everywhere I wanted to go with less effort.

BCB
I think that he's talking about cutting the width of the track
 
On my track the "belt" itself is 16" wide. The lugs are offset 1/2" on each side so the paddles are at 15". I want to cut the belt down to 15". There is no need to cut the lugs as they are at 15".

What tool would be suggested to use to cut the belt?
 
I took one off a few years ago and put it on a small table saw using a fence with a fine tooth wood blade. Had a helper to guide it through and it smoked like crazy, but got the job done.
 
I took one off a few years ago and put it on a small table saw using a fence with a fine tooth wood blade. Had a helper to guide it through and it smoked like crazy, but got the job done.

Erik at VOHK told me I could get away with a box of sharp box cutter blades and a very fine toothed sawzall blade for the fiberglass rods.
 
Anyone ever try a portercable porta-band band saw? I use them for all sorts of odd tasks on the job. As long as you had a helper puling the waste out of the way i think you could cut the whole thing with a 15$ blade. It will be messy but??!? I may try to take about a 1/4" off each side of my flex-edge just to limit the vibe/ wear do to lack of clearance.
 
If you don't know of anyone with a bandsaw with a fence to run it against I would use a jig saw and run it on the inside of the track. If nubs are in the way just make a wood spacer so it will sit flat.
 
Just gonna try to do it with the track on. That way my "extra" set of hands is the sled. A think a 154 is too much to handle and try to get a straight line while cutting. Since my lugs are already at 15" I don't have to make long cuts. It may take a while but not near as long as dropping the skid, pulling the driveshaft and yanking track. Safer, I think too.

Just gotta go to Lowes and get a couple packages of fine toothed metal saw blades
 
I think if you used a jig saw on the inside of the track common too the slide rails , and a straight edge ,a person could modify it to cut it all rods and all
 
im just wondering how the track will hold up with the rods exposed to the elements??

IN powder, it'll be ok. I spoke with Tracks USA about it. He said if I was worried I could spray the edges with rubber coating and it'll hold up well.
 
sounds like a lot of work when there is thousands of 16 wide users out there with no complaints. me personally having 2 16 wide track sleds. i wouldnt waste your time. your track is supposed to have the floatation of a 16 and the carve ability of a 15 wide.
 
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