I could see him taking me with the rktek 925 bb. But i wasnt expecting it with just some porting ypipe reeds and some weight in the clutch
cutler 950 big bore
- Thread starter chrisp__hartery
- Start date
So kiliki i take it that you have the 950 cpc in your sled?
M
minet
Well-known member
oh
Yah drag racing has other factors involved.. pretty much whoever hooks up better wins. 300 hp. Sled could lose to a 100 hp sled if the 100 Hp one has studs .. Also skid set up helps..so are you getting beat on the trail.. or in deep pow up a climb is he Hi marking you
Yah drag racing has other factors involved.. pretty much whoever hooks up better wins. 300 hp. Sled could lose to a 100 hp sled if the 100 Hp one has studs .. Also skid set up helps..so are you getting beat on the trail.. or in deep pow up a climb is he Hi marking you
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On a trail. Both with same springs and same helix. Fresh clutches on the 950. Both hooking up really good.
Highmark LOL
The other sled is a CFR
Chrisp run it wot for 500 ft three times in a safe easy spot to do so then have a pop with the hood open to cool things down then take off your pipe take a pic of the inside of the Y pipe then take an exhaust valve out and have a look at the wash (size of wash) then pull a plug and take a pic of the plug.also remember to report what you egt were .
Then post all info
Okay ill try that. Thanks alot
So what was your buddy running his at for temps?
Soooooo very true. Whether you have a timing key or not will effect how hot your egt's need to be as well. If you have advanced the timing your egt's will be cooler with good plug readings and wash because more heat is going into the piston and less out the exhaust.
I have a 2 degree timing key. Ive been told to run 8000 rpms. Now i read on the instructions for the kit that i should be running 8150. This extra page wasnt with mine last year
The instructions for the kit would (I'm assuming) be talking about rpm for the stock pipe, but the SLP modifies what you should be running... I'd think you'd need to be a ways higher. The SLP pipe shows 8200 with a stock motor, I'd think you should be at or above that with the 950.
I'd think even a basic conversation with Dale would have given you that info.
Those are mounted awful close, i would think you are going to need to see temps in the 1300 range to make it run right.
DON'T just take that and run with it, it is 100% my opinion!! But if I remember right the egt thermocouple should be mounted 7 inches from the exhaust side of the piston. Looks to me like you are more like 3-4 inches from the piston skirt.
If memory serves, the closer to the piston your probes are, a lower EGT# will be required to prevent melt down. The farther away from the piton the higher the EGT# is required for the proper state of tune.( although I may be mistaken).... Rule of Thumb was 5-6 inches from the piston face, is approx. 1250 deg. every additional inch would be an additional 100 deg.
No this is only a basic guide... different port, pipe design, RPM, etc, etc, etc will change the actual # needed for a proper tune.
EGT's should only be used in conjunction with plug readings, & wash pattern readings.
Its in the instructions on the last page. 8150 for the slp pipe and the probes are were they should be according to the instructions. I am off work on friday morning so i will be looking at the wash on my pistons. I also have a d&d 901 big bore pipe kit that i got off a buddy and i want to try it.I broke the engine in to the T the way that cutler said. Last year i was told by him that the motor should rev to 8400. A 250 bravo would take that sled reving there. I then called him again this year at the beginning of the season and asked for a dyno sheet. He said no so i asled where the engine made its torque amd i clutched for 8000 rpm. The sled seemed to wake up a little more at those rpms but didnt impress me alot.Im going to look at my piston wash and see how it looks. If it looks good this motor is going on a dyno and ill see myself what the sled is actually making for horsepower amd torque
the probes seem way to deep...the tips should be at the halfway point in the pipe...meaning the center..
seeing the nuts close to the bend means the probe is to far in from what my probes are..
and clamps suck...weld ins rule..
seeing the nuts close to the bend means the probe is to far in from what my probes are..
and clamps suck...weld ins rule..
ps...you absolutely sure you put that timing key in the right rotation..??...and yea those probes are way past center imo..
They are welded now.
