men i know all the hoop la and crap that is out there about these things. All im looking for is a semi descriptive method to check the runout on the crank. Primary is off and at slp for cleaning balancing and rebuilding. any help is appreciated.
crank runout
- Thread starter agurdo17
- Start date
Get yourself a dial indicator, and a solid way to mount it (no, using a mag mount on the SLP torque arm isn't solid enough). Put the indicator as close as you can to the crank seal, pull the plugs out, and turn the motor over. You shouldn't have more than 0.003" runout. If you do, you're a ticking time bomb. Some guys pull the recoil housing off and rotate the motor by the flywheel, I just used the pull rope. The important part is making sure the indicator is mounted solidly to the block, or your readings will be off.
Where to check the crank runout
RMK Cowboy,
No pi$$in match, I was told by SLP to check 'em at 1" in from the end, I've always checked them a little further out than that.
Are you sure about checking 'em that far in????????????????????
Just wonderin' what the correct method is if there is one??
Thanks
RMK Cowboy,
No pi$$in match, I was told by SLP to check 'em at 1" in from the end, I've always checked them a little further out than that.
Are you sure about checking 'em that far in????????????????????
Just wonderin' what the correct method is if there is one??
Thanks
I've always been told to check it right at the seal... so I dunno man! I was always told not to check it too close to the end unless you want to scare yourself real bad
My thread from a short while ago
R
ragingwong
Member
runout
i checked mine today,03 vertical escape,.0015" total indicator movement right at the end of the crank,make sure you yank your spark plugs,mine was .003" with the plugs in.The clutch is only going to magnify any runout that the crank has so i would check as close to the end as possible,and make sure when you start your sled that the engine is warmed up properly,i read a post by "indydan" that you should start the engine,let it warm up,shut it off,allowing the crank to soak up some of the heat because it expands at a different rate than the aluminum cases,then restart and warm up again before you hit the trail.It worked for me,crank runout hasn't changed since i bought it,good luck
i checked mine today,03 vertical escape,.0015" total indicator movement right at the end of the crank,make sure you yank your spark plugs,mine was .003" with the plugs in.The clutch is only going to magnify any runout that the crank has so i would check as close to the end as possible,and make sure when you start your sled that the engine is warmed up properly,i read a post by "indydan" that you should start the engine,let it warm up,shut it off,allowing the crank to soak up some of the heat because it expands at a different rate than the aluminum cases,then restart and warm up again before you hit the trail.It worked for me,crank runout hasn't changed since i bought it,good luck
W
Wayniac
Member
From the 2005 Polaris manual
CRANKSHAFT RUNOUT INSPECTION
When checking the crankshaft runout on the MAG side measure the runout 1/2” (12.7mm) from the bearing flat.
When checking the crankshaft runout from the PTO side, measure runout where the taper starts after the bearing flat.
Acceptable crankshaft runout
(in crank fixture) is
Liberty Engines .000” -- .00015” (0--.04mm)
CRANKSHAFT RUNOUT INSPECTION
When checking the crankshaft runout on the MAG side measure the runout 1/2” (12.7mm) from the bearing flat.
When checking the crankshaft runout from the PTO side, measure runout where the taper starts after the bearing flat.
Acceptable crankshaft runout
(in crank fixture) is
Liberty Engines .000” -- .00015” (0--.04mm)
thanks guys. got my balanced clutch back today. drilled five or six holes in it. SLP did a great job. It looks cleaner than from the factory. Im gonna check runout tomorrow. thanks for the help.
Where do you guys usualy attach the dial as far as in the engine compartment. right to the engine with some sort of strap or clamp it to something?
Where do you guys usualy attach the dial as far as in the engine compartment. right to the engine with some sort of strap or clamp it to something?
Any suggestions for getting it that way? When I checked mine the closest I could come was a mag mount indicator on the SLP torque arm... still not good enough.
