crack in hood,what adheisive do i use to repair????

[ridinm8]

have a white 09 8 with a small crack by the hinge.need a good glue that will hold no matter what.any info would help.thanks

 

[Lambert454]

Glue will never last. Drill a hole on either side and zip tie it. Like stitches... Also look into Frogg Skin nose vents.

Lambert

 

[mikew5945]

After my M7 left me almost on top and went christmass tree hinting by it's self I got a break in the side of the hood under the vent. I molded a piece of aluminum from the hinge back and used the slowest curing epoxy I could find. It has worked for two years now. Castle Mountain Sports in White Sulpher Springs MT has an epoxy that I will try if it ever breaks again. (406) 547-2330

 

[WyoBoy1000]

3M 8115, panel bonding adhesive. most body shops have it. I clued my hood cable tabs back on with it and road over a season with lots of heat under the hood. its a 30 min work time and 24 hr cure, best out there. Prep work is very important. it also help to laminate a thin piece of metal or tin on the back side. I have a few aluminum car hoods that I keep around to cut peices out of to do it, it can be hard to find that thin of aluminum. You want to use 36 or at least 80 grit on all services to scratch it up or grind it. then some good cleaner. I have used this stuff to put oil drain plugs in, glued broken oil pans, even used it as a toe saver on steel toe boots, it outlasted the boots.

 

[06 RMK 900]

I had a crack on my RMK hood. took a file and made the back side really rough around the crack and mixed up some JB Weld and put it on. Has held so far and my 900 vibrates lol

 

[AKpow]

i jsut fixed my m series hood. the plastic is TPO and has a wax base to it. i used Lord Fusor 143. got it at a autobody supply shop. alll about service prep. get the surface good and rough with 80 grit. make sure you get all the paint off. dont use a hand sander or grinding wheel cause if you get the plasitc to hot it will bring the wax to the surface and nothing will stick to it. there is a surface modifier that is recommended and mesh. this stuff dies fast. only workable for a minute. downside is you need to purchase the applicator gun for it. thts 50 and the adhesive is around 20 for a tube. get extra applicaotr tipps too cause the adhesive will dry in the tip while you workin what you applied. dont force it out casue it burst the adhesive cartridge.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

There is plastic cleaners that are made to clean wax and mold agents off plastic, I use a 3" angle grinder but keep it very slow, it can also melt the plastic over itself, just keep it slow and work one way. The panel bonding stuff also has a applicator gun and mix tubes, I just take the cap off and squirt some on a metal plate and mix it with a small trowel then spread it where needed, this way you can use as minimal amount as possible and don't have to buy mix tubes.

 

[MrClean409]

3M 8115, panel bonding adhesive. most body shops have it. I clued my hood cable tabs back on with it and road over a season with lots of heat under the hood. its a 30 min work time and 24 hr cure, best out there. Prep work is very important. it also help to laminate a thin piece of metal or tin on the back side. I have a few aluminum car hoods that I keep around to cut peices out of to do it, it can be hard to find that thin of aluminum. You want to use 36 or at least 80 grit on all services to scratch it up or grind it. then some good cleaner. I have used this stuff to put oil drain plugs in, glued broken oil pans, even used it as a toe saver on steel toe boots, it outlasted the boots.

I don't know if I would use the 3M 8115 for plastic? That is used for metal to metal applications. I have had great luck with the 3M 8223 automix. It's just like duct tape...fixes everything. "3M 8223 Automix Universal Adhesive Black bonds similiar and dissimiliar materials in minutes, offering a 3 minute work time, unclamp time in 25 minutes and a cure time of 4 hours."

 

[Steve OH]

i jsut fixed my m series hood. the plastic is TPO and has a wax base to it. i used Lord Fusor 143. got it at a autobody supply shop.

X2

 

[Frostbite]

So, is it a good idea to back the inside of the hood with some type of mesh and use one of the bove adhesives to back up the inside of the hood cable tabs before they break?

One of my cable tabs cracked right through the hood last week (pissed me off) and I was looking for a good fix when I found this post.

How about JB Weld? Does it stick to the inside of the hood if you sand the area well and wipe it down with acetone before application?

I read all the threads I could find on the topic and I see there are mnay recommended products for fixing the hoods.Some of them are:

Lord Fusor 101EZ, 143, 152/153

Duramix 4030 and adhesive promoter

3M EZ Sand, 8115, 8223

SEM Problem Plastic Repair

Flexible Bumper Epoxy

and then there are many items recommended to back the area you are repairing like:

Drywall tape

Old hood vent screen material

Window screen

Fiberglass tape

Where is the best place a guy can find one of these adheisives?

Will an autoparts store stock it typically?

 

[AKpow]

Lord Fusor 143. 4 rides in this winter and no issues. Also cracked the hood at the cables tabs. reinforced it with the adhesive and mesh. has been holding. just take it easy when opening the hood.

i repaired about 8 cracks on hoodand one of them had almost split it right in half. all have held together.

 

[shredjim]

Lord Fusor 143?

So how are the cracked hoods that have been repaired with Lord Fusor 143 holding up? Any more input on this topic? Add me to the list of recent cracked hoods

 

[Arctic Thunder]

I busted up the hood really good on my M a couple years ago.

Used the Lord Fusor 152/153. The body shop loaned me the gun so that saved me $50. The distributor for the stuff just gives them the gun. So you might be able to borrow one pretty easy.

As for the mesh. They recommended I used the fiber type sheet rock tape. The stuff that looks like a screen door material. Worked very well. Lots of miles and not a single crack.

Thunder

 

[clarkwinsor]

im lazy and had the body shop fix it for me, that drywall mesh is most definitly key. adds the strength, and also flexs. be sure that your adhisives are rated for cold temps!!!

 

[NWOffroader]

07 M8
From what I found the hood is made of Metton and I used Lord 101EZ with some sst mesh backing, worked great, it's been 3 years and is still holding together.

 

[styxt9]

The 8115 works great and is probably the stronger of the suggested here. The 8223 is also good but IMO the 8115 is stronger and works well on the plastic. I did a hood for a friend a couple years ago, and the hood held up perfectly until he hit a tree. The hood broke everywhere but where the panel bond was. Just remember to v channel out the crack (not to deep) so you can get the adhesive inside and create a better bond. Mesh on the back side. I am actually doing my hood now. 80 grit to sand off the paint and panel bond, 180 grit to smooth it out and feather it, then a 400 to finish for paint. Now if you get any low spots put a thin layer of finishing glaze or plastic filler on it and use the same sanding process.

 

[Woody67]

Shoe Goo

I have never used it but I have watched a great sled builder use this on countless applications including hoods:

Shoe Goo

never would have believed if I had not seen it myself. one of the sleds was just cartwheeled down a mountain...hood broke in multiple pieces but the spot previously repaired with Shoe Goo still intact.

 

[Arctic Thunder]

I have never used it but I have watched a great sled builder use this on countless applications including hoods:

Shoe Goo

never would have believed if I had not seen it myself. one of the sleds was just cartwheeled down a mountain...hood broke in multiple pieces but the spot previously repaired with Shoe Goo still intact.

Shoe Goo. Thats great.

You know I think a tube of this should be in every sled. This stuff is as universal as bailing wire and duct tape.

Should be an item in everyones back-country pack.



Thunder