COOLING DUCT FOR THE QUICK DRIVE BELT

[mountainhorse]

Here's a good tip that I learned a couple of days back...

FYI. Some shops are putting on the RUSH brake cooling duct to keep the Quick Drive belts cooler. Bolt on deal...

Shown as #1 on the dwg below.

Part # 5437519 (about $28)

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[rmscustom]

Not a bad idea but I think when you're going to need the cooling the most you wont be moving fast enough for that to work.

 

[AK IQ Pilot]

Not a bad idea but I think when you're going to need the cooling the most you wont be moving fast enough for that to work.

Probably right but every little bit should help. Even going slow it might act as a chimney and duct hot muffler and QD heat upward out of the area. At $26 it's worth a try.

 

[mountainhorse]

Yea I hear ya... I preach that In my vent thread... but anything would help.

I think that temp has a lot to do with it.

 

[likkerpig]

I've been kicking around the idea of adding a small waterproof fan to behind the gauge lifter blowing hot air out. Not sure if it'd actually help though

 

[mountainhorse]

Like this one???

12-06-2012, 10:45 PM
Have you thought of putting a high quality pancake fan behind the unit as an active vent?

Something like the SPAL fan? Compact at 4" x 4" x 2.5" Completely waterproof and made for automotive applications.

To power it up... use the AC side of the lighting relay... Just a simple full wave rectifier, like Boondocker uses for their intercooler fan, off of the yellow lighting coil would drive it safely. Of course.. have an inline 5 amp fuse!

Nice... at at the top of the engine room where heat rises.
Would take advantage of natural convection.

 

[likkerpig]

Something along those lines. Haven't really researched it much yet was just thinking something to help out with drawing underhood heat out. Something cheap and easy to start with, doesn't need to move a ton of cfm but obviously the more the merrier.

 

[sierraclimber]

This should help. I am thinking of getting it for my sled.

Click on "UNDER HOOD HEAT ELIMINATOR A.K.A. "THE BLOW HOLE"

http://www.mtntkperformance.com/

 

[likkerpig]

Already know about that one. Didn't want to hack the sh!t out of my console I paid 11k for....

 

[winter brew]

Are some QD belts getting hot? Should only be warm from the exhaust nearby. ???

 

[yooper 8]

We have been checking ours every 10 to 15 miles, and they are always about the same temp.....feels like about 105 to 110 degrees, you can hold your hand on it anywhere no problem, but it is warm.

 

[AaronBND]

MH, you gotta learn how to resize your pictures man! I always have to scroll side to side in all the threads with your radically, huge picture posts in them.

Here's that fan. Looks like $45. I have thought about something like this for warming goggles laying over the gauge lift, but it would only run when the sleds running.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/spal-fan-4-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item27cd78d901&vxp=mtr

Aaron

 

[mrquick68]

any of the gauge lifter products out there should be a big help in eliminating a lot of under hood heat from the pro chassis. The large chimney opening allows rising heat to escape pulling in cool air. Convection style.

I would hope this would aid in increasing belt life for the qd as well as the drive belt. I have low vents strategically placed to pull in cool air across these hot parts and exhaust out the gauge lifter opening.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

[Scott]

I have the ModRods 5 panel vent and I have a Wildchild gauge lifter on the way.

Will be looking forward to checking temps.

 

[geo]

I find this Pro to be very well vented or heat managed stock. Unless your completely buried (then your insulated as well lol).
I installed a "chimney" (bunch of holes covered with Frogskin stuff,above the headlights, under the windshield) from the get go 'cause all the sleds I've had needed it. I don't feel too much hot air out of it.
My left foot tells me about the clutches and if I feel warmth start when I back off it cools right away (so the pipe heat is not coming into this area).
I believe it has a lot to do with the belly pan hole and so far the snow build-up has been an non-issue here for me. Lots of hot air escapes here as you can see the ice on the lower a-arms.

With the QD system, the only thing that gets too hot is the top sprocket. On mine it's not the brake or the can. I hardly use the brake except on the trail.
When I stop and snap off the too easy cover and check temps adfter a good hard deep snow run, the brake is hand "holdable" (so that tells me it's not the brake from use OR the can, cause the rotor would get hot from the can too) as is the belt and lower sprocket. No heat issue at all.
But,, the top sprocket is way hot (too hot to touch). One handful of snow into the top sprocket and the heat disipates that quick. I think this is purely from work transfered by the sprocket and can't see it being any better with out less mass (holes?) in the top sprocket (or maybe tighter pitch on the teeth through the whole system).

On a high speed wide open trail run it is a different story. The can and brake definately add heat into the area. I think I will invest 30 bucks into a Pro R vent for spring just for this reason.

Kinda tickled I don't have to cut up my panels this year because all the holes in the world won't help if the pipe heat is directed wrong to start with. Usually those holes are plugged when you need then the most.

 

[Scott]

I wonder if Polaris left the belly pan hole under the Quick Drive for a reason. Does it help cool the belt, especially in deep powder?

 

[geo]

Mines plugged with a reinforcement panel of 1/4" UHM. Top sprocket heat was there before and after.