I noticed a small drip of anti-freeze coming out the weep hole on my water pump. I assume a weak seal. How hard is this job to do and does the motor need to be pulled? Any tips would be great. The sled is 08 m8 with about 3k for miles.
Coolant out the weep hole on water pump. Now what?
- Thread starter Bradm88
- Start date
hope this helps...sorry I could not add the pics from my manual...and yes remove the engine.
As well parts breakdown diagrams from Alpha Sports or Oregon Trail Sports also are a great help,and you likely can use other methods then the specialty tools they suggest..
Repairing Water Pump
(800/1000 cc)
��NOTE: The engine must be removed for this procedure
(see Section 2).
��NOTE: A bleed hole is located in the crankcase
beneath the water pump housing. If there are any
signs of coolant leakage from the bleed hole, the
water pump seals must be replaced.
��NOTE: When servicing the water pump, use
Water Pump Bearing and Seal Kit (p/n 0644-084)
and Oil Seal Protector Tool (p/n 0644-219).
1. Loosen the clamps securing the coolant hose to the
water pump and cylinder head; then remove the
hose.
FS222
2. Remove the seven cap screws securing the water
pump cover; then remove the cover and account
for the O-ring seal and two dowel pins.
FS223A
3. Remove the cap screw (A) securing the lower
check valve to the oil pump and account for the
two gaskets; then remove the two cap screws (B)
securing the oil pump to the engine. Remove the
pump.
��NOTE: Leave the two upper check valves secured
to the pump.
FS221A
4. Remove the cap screw securing the impeller.
Account for the rubber washer and gasket behind
the cap screw.
FS224
5. Remove the impeller from the shaft.
FS225
��NOTE: If the impeller will not slide off the shaft,
start the cap screw into the shaft and tap on the cap
screw driving the shaft back out of the impeller.
FC121
6. Remove the oil-injection pump retainer and shaft
from the opposite side of the crankcase. Account
for the thrust washer located between the retainer
and shaft flange.
FS226
7. Using the long seal driver, drive the water pump
mechanical seal from the crankcase
8. Using a pair of snap ring pliers, remove the snap
ring securing the oil seal in the crankcase.
FS228
9. Using the hooked end of the long seal driver, pull
the inner seal free of the crankcase.
FS229
ASSEMBLING
1. Thoroughly clean the seal surfaces of the crankcase.
2. Position the oil seal onto the seal driver (spring side
towards the crankshaft). Gently tap into position.
FS230
3. Apply a small amount of grease to the oil seal lips.
4. Using a pair of snap ring pliers, install the snap
ring securing the oil seal in the crankcase.
FS228
5. Using the seal driver, carefully install the outer
water pump mechanical seal. Gently tap the seal
down into position until it seats itself against the
crankcase.
FS232
6. Apply a light coat of grease to the sealing surface
of the oil-injection pump driveshaft; then install
Oil Seal Protector Tool (p/n 0644-219) at the end
of the shaft. Twist the shaft as it is pushed through
the oil and water pump seals; then remove the tool.
7. Position the shim on the oil pump end of the shaft;
then with the O-ring installed on the retainer,
install the oil-injection pump retainer.
8. With the O-ring in place on the oil-injection pump,
align the pump with the shaft; then install the
pump. Secure with two cap screws. Tighten the
two cap screws to 0.7 kg-m (5 ft-lb). Place the
lower check valve into position; then secure with
the gaskets and cap screw (A). Tighten securely.
FS220A
��NOTE: When installing the lower check valve,
assure that the gaskets are installed on each side
of the valve.
FS235A
��NOTE: After the oil pump has been secured,
assure that the oil hoses from the pump to the
intake flanges are routed properly.
9. Place the impeller into position and secure with a
cap screw and washer. Be sure the rubber side of
the washer is directed towards the impeller. Apply
blue Loctite #243 to the threads of the cap screw
and tighten to 1.1 kg-m (8 ft-lb).
FS225
10. Apply sealant to the crankcase seam; then install
the alignment pins into the crankcase (if removed).
FC133A
11. Position the O-ring into the water pump cover; then
install the cover. Install the cap screws; then using
the pattern shown, tighten to 1.1 kg-m (8 ft-lb).
As well parts breakdown diagrams from Alpha Sports or Oregon Trail Sports also are a great help,and you likely can use other methods then the specialty tools they suggest..
Repairing Water Pump
(800/1000 cc)
��NOTE: The engine must be removed for this procedure
(see Section 2).
��NOTE: A bleed hole is located in the crankcase
beneath the water pump housing. If there are any
signs of coolant leakage from the bleed hole, the
water pump seals must be replaced.
��NOTE: When servicing the water pump, use
Water Pump Bearing and Seal Kit (p/n 0644-084)
and Oil Seal Protector Tool (p/n 0644-219).
1. Loosen the clamps securing the coolant hose to the
water pump and cylinder head; then remove the
hose.
FS222
2. Remove the seven cap screws securing the water
pump cover; then remove the cover and account
for the O-ring seal and two dowel pins.
FS223A
3. Remove the cap screw (A) securing the lower
check valve to the oil pump and account for the
two gaskets; then remove the two cap screws (B)
securing the oil pump to the engine. Remove the
pump.
��NOTE: Leave the two upper check valves secured
to the pump.
FS221A
4. Remove the cap screw securing the impeller.
Account for the rubber washer and gasket behind
the cap screw.
FS224
5. Remove the impeller from the shaft.
FS225
��NOTE: If the impeller will not slide off the shaft,
start the cap screw into the shaft and tap on the cap
screw driving the shaft back out of the impeller.
FC121
6. Remove the oil-injection pump retainer and shaft
from the opposite side of the crankcase. Account
for the thrust washer located between the retainer
and shaft flange.
FS226
7. Using the long seal driver, drive the water pump
mechanical seal from the crankcase
8. Using a pair of snap ring pliers, remove the snap
ring securing the oil seal in the crankcase.
FS228
9. Using the hooked end of the long seal driver, pull
the inner seal free of the crankcase.
FS229
ASSEMBLING
1. Thoroughly clean the seal surfaces of the crankcase.
2. Position the oil seal onto the seal driver (spring side
towards the crankshaft). Gently tap into position.
FS230
3. Apply a small amount of grease to the oil seal lips.
4. Using a pair of snap ring pliers, install the snap
ring securing the oil seal in the crankcase.
FS228
5. Using the seal driver, carefully install the outer
water pump mechanical seal. Gently tap the seal
down into position until it seats itself against the
crankcase.
FS232
6. Apply a light coat of grease to the sealing surface
of the oil-injection pump driveshaft; then install
Oil Seal Protector Tool (p/n 0644-219) at the end
of the shaft. Twist the shaft as it is pushed through
the oil and water pump seals; then remove the tool.
7. Position the shim on the oil pump end of the shaft;
then with the O-ring installed on the retainer,
install the oil-injection pump retainer.
8. With the O-ring in place on the oil-injection pump,
align the pump with the shaft; then install the
pump. Secure with two cap screws. Tighten the
two cap screws to 0.7 kg-m (5 ft-lb). Place the
lower check valve into position; then secure with
the gaskets and cap screw (A). Tighten securely.
FS220A
��NOTE: When installing the lower check valve,
assure that the gaskets are installed on each side
of the valve.
FS235A
��NOTE: After the oil pump has been secured,
assure that the oil hoses from the pump to the
intake flanges are routed properly.
9. Place the impeller into position and secure with a
cap screw and washer. Be sure the rubber side of
the washer is directed towards the impeller. Apply
blue Loctite #243 to the threads of the cap screw
and tighten to 1.1 kg-m (8 ft-lb).
FS225
10. Apply sealant to the crankcase seam; then install
the alignment pins into the crankcase (if removed).
FC133A
11. Position the O-ring into the water pump cover; then
install the cover. Install the cap screws; then using
the pattern shown, tighten to 1.1 kg-m (8 ft-lb).
Magic hit it right on the money.
One thing to make sure....check the water pump drive shaft and make sure that it is not pitted or corroded or you will be back again for round 2 very soon.
One thing to make sure....check the water pump drive shaft and make sure that it is not pitted or corroded or you will be back again for round 2 very soon.
How big or hard of a job is it to pull the motor out and do this.This problem I found last year with the pump leaking, and just kinda put it in the back of my mind. I know I should get it fixed before it creates a bigger issue right? I have replaced my track and rebuilt dd bearings on my sled, just a little intimidating to remove the motor. I like to work on my sled, so just looking for any tips or stuff to watch out for. I guess nows the time to do it - summer.
when your motor is out look at investing into one of those bottom steering post plates
to prevent bulkhead cracking and the bdx post bushing for tightening the slop...they are cheap investments.
you seem handy, you will do fine, if your unsure a camera is a good friend...
to prevent bulkhead cracking and the bdx post bushing for tightening the slop...they are cheap investments.
you seem handy, you will do fine, if your unsure a camera is a good friend...
F
fullshift
New member
Can oil come out the weep hole? I noticed small amount of oil on snow when we stopped for 25 minutes on my last ride. Looked for a leak when I got back. The belly pan was dirty and hard to tell where it was coming from. But I saw oil at the weep hole. I put a small tie wrap up weep hole and there was oil on it. Coolant level is good and clean. What should I do?
B
BradM8
Active member
What are the odds that with a username so similar i had to do the same thing at the end of the season. With mine i had oil leaking through the weep hole. The oil side seal was torn due to a very minute amount of brass floatys from the shaft gears. I have the theroy that after sitting a week or so the oil in the cavity seeps into the bootom of the cases. During start up it smoked like crazy and cleared up but for that short time it was not very well lubricated so it had wear hence the brass fillings. After that i put in the bdx oil injection delete kit and filled the cavity with grease. Made the sled run way crisper. As far for how hard it was it took me a solid day to do the whole thing. For special tools at a minimum you will have to buy the seal driver tools. You might be able to get away with the teflon trick for pulling the primary off but honestly it is worth getting proper tool for that anyways.
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