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considering turbo

not the place for this, derailed the thread huge. :frusty:

but to clarify I have ridden big bores and turbos at elevation never seen an 860 hold a candle to a turbo'ed sled climbing. a well tuned turbo does fine in the trees, not as responsive as the n/a but I can deal with that when I was running my sled with hi-comp head, pipe, reeds, it didnt seem like the 860 would go any where that my sled wouldnt. that being said I am going to do a turbo first.
 
Glad to hear you're going to build. I bought my sled w/ a kit from Rick at Peak Powersports and it works great. The only issues I've had (besides a burn down from a powerjet plugging-my own fault for not watching egts close enough) are the boots separated and the pipe split. Weld the pipe and keep the boots from delaminating and tuning will be easy. Looking forward to see how it turns out and plan on running at least 8 lbs of boost or 860's that are properly tuned will have a hay day w/ you to at least 8000'.
 
man, lots of bebbie downer's around these parts.

if you have a decent idea of whats going on and pay attention, its NO problem and will run rather well.. proper turbo sizing and half decent clutching and lag is something for the haters to dream about.

if your running more then 7# of boost with a half decent setup... an 860 isnt even gonna be in the same leauge. maybe if you ran a 2860 like people thought was a good idea it would be, but 7# with a 2876 will BLOW you away. or even a billet wheeled 2871 is a fire breather.

the advice i have regarding issues with xp's that need to be adressed. Weld the pipe up good, if you have a mig welder, i can give you a good technique. also, running a GOOD BOV (bosch plastic ones are REALLY responsive and cheap) help deal with pipe issues as you dont get pressure spikes in the exhaust when the turbo suddenly stops spinning (compressor surge)... for carb boots, read the thread in the t-doo section here about alternatives and such started by i think screech... good advice in there.

tuning doo carbs for boost is dumb easy... you might have to swap a set of jets once or twice when your starting to get close, but its NOT a big deal... get it done early and go on a few road rides and you should be good by the time the snow is worth a crap.

if you need info on setting one up, feel free to PM me and i can walk you throught some of the little qutestions here and there, i helped put together a kit on my buddies sled this winter and it was a simple project. it took longer for him to descide where he wanted his lines routed then it did to do up the kit.

going turbo to the tune of about what ........... $7500???

as far as that comment... wow. i think we did a full kit for around $2k in parts with finding some good deals on stuff and fab work is free.... with a really nice turbo like a billet wheeled one, $3k in parts is generous as some stuff will get thrown or not used and changed.
 
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man, lots of bebbie downer's around these parts.
Weld the pipe up good, if you have a mig welder, i can give you a good technique.

running a GOOD BOV (bosch plastic ones are REALLY responsive and cheap)

for carb boots, read the thread in the t-doo section here about alternatives and such started by i think screech

tuning doo carbs for boost is dumb easy... you might have to swap a set of jets once or twice when your starting to get close

as far as that comment... wow. i think we did a full kit for around $2k in parts with finding some good deals on stuff and fab work is free.... with a really nice turbo like a billet wheeled one, $3k in parts is generous as some stuff will get thrown or not used and changed.

I'm gonna try and run my spi pipe with the turbo, I am going to weld my stock one and put it in the trailer just in case I blow apart the spi.

I plan on running a tial bov for now.

I have read the thread about carb boots, gonna try the updated doo ones first with that glue stuff on them if that dont work gus says use cat ones with doubled up reeds. and someone else says billet ones so we will see what it comes down to

I can tune no problem at all.

as for the price of it, the turbo alone (2871 with tial housing and billet wheel) is $1900 so its gonna cost me alot but it should be a nice lightweight fast spooling turbo. I could have run a regular 2871 for like $1200 but this should be much better. plus I am going to run electronic boost controller and external wastegate so that all adds to the price. by the time I get my a new skid and a 2.5 camo extreme on her I will have some serious cash into the machine
 
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Best of luck. I would be interested to see it run out west here in the high country. I hope your project gives you the results you desire. Let us know what it ended up REALLY costing you. I have yet to see in 3 years, any PGT up to 10 lbs that can stay with a properly tuned 860 in hill climbing, tree boodocking or drag racing, either up hill or flat out straight. The only exception is last years Stilber turbo on a Pro @ 12+ lbs.

I absolutely acknowledge that if you give a PGT w/ 12 + lbs of boost enough space it will reel in a 860, but that is IF.

Keep us up to date. I will back out of your thread now and leave you to the turbo quest!!:face-icon-small-coo
 
if carb boots are such a big problem why dont more people switch to sand cast ones from the crank shop they work great !
 
Best of luck. I would be interested to see it run out west here in the high country. I hope your project gives you the results you desire. Let us know what it ended up REALLY costing you. I have yet to see in 3 years, any PGT up to 10 lbs that can stay with a properly tuned 860 in hill climbing, tree boodocking or drag racing, either up hill or flat out straight. The only exception is last years Stilber turbo on a Pro @ 12+ lbs.

I absolutely acknowledge that if you give a PGT w/ 12 + lbs of boost enough space it will reel in a 860, but that is IF.

Keep us up to date. I will back out of your thread now and leave you to the turbo quest!!:face-icon-small-coo

I am assuming pgt means pump gas turbo, well a pump gas turbo is not going to run at 12 psi. Opposite to your post I have never seen a BB run proper in any conditions or do anything spectacular, but enough with the bantering. It will be out in the mountains november 11th guaranteed. I will be tuning the whole time I bet but that will be the main reason for going so early. I am projecting a cost of 4000 thats using top notch stuff, thats not including the skid and track because that is needed either way. but I will share my total bill. I will put money on the fact that I will have this thing running top notch (I am fussy) by the end of this coming season and no big bore will be able to touch me in any circumstance.

Idaho slim are you from idaho? if not where?
 
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The spi pipe will be the better choice as the oem pipe and its internal stinger are problems that you dont need,,Internal stingers are NOT worked out to flow the amount we need for boost.

Doubled up stock reed petals on stock cages are proving themsleves as the best response and durability you will find in the market PERIOD !!

tuning the sled is stupid easy ,, DONT let any jakazz talk you into anything less than a forced perf 2871 or a std garrett 2876..

STM valves are money well spent.

2'' is the absolute min.. 3 '' is the coolest temp highest flow you would need.
2.5 is that warm fuzzy spot.

small charge tube diameter is slower to respond and friggin heat maker stuff !!!

send us pics,, pm dooin it and go


Gus
 
2.5 inch pipe it is, turbo will be here in 3 weeks ish, I was going to run the stock exhaust valves just wrap them up but I dont like the idea of those pressure and vacuum solenoids and it looks so much cleaner with the supreme tool ones that I am going to spend the extra and get the stm valves, doubled up stock reeds it is.
 
Good Luck with the build Taylor. Difference in coming home under your own power or someone elses is usually in the details. Take your time and don't rush. Seems like most problems are related to a bad installs. No worse feeling that having some stupid little hiccup like a ground wire that rubbed through or something ruining your day. Use lots of heat tape and be sure you don't have any kinked vacuum lines, etc.
 
I have all summer, so I can take as much time as I like. I will make sure to inspect every step of the install thoroughly and try to keep everything neat and tidy under there.
 
Ordered all my parts now I get to sit and wait in anticipation until they get here.

Will a K mod fit my 146, his website says 163 or longer, I tried calling but no answer. I would rather run a holz or timbersled because I deal with those companies but I have heard K mod is the best for boost.

Sprockets/ Chaincase. Should I go to a hyvo set up or the C3 syncrodrive set up, I am wondering if the c3 setup will hold up to the power. I think it would be nice to not have oil in there and be able to change gearing on the side of the hill if I want
 
Shoot Kevin an email .. Kmod stuff is what works best with mega power in the deep..

the oem chain is so long that each pin has little load. they dont strecth they dont break ( when aligned properly ) and we love them for snox and our turbos out on the iceflats...

belt drives 2 have failed on day 1 with turbos and traction....


Gus

Taylor.
I can no longer read your posts,,thread has gone by the free member limit !!!! Lol

good luck man...
 
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What is kevin's user name?

Well just got an email from the place I ordered my waste gate, bov, tubing and stuff from, (Himni Racing) saying that they do not accept credit cards from out side of the united states, Way to loose them selves a customer, They gave me the paypal option but I don't even want to use them any more because there shipping prices were horrendous ($275.00 for a 40lb box). Thanks for listening to my rant and now I have to find someone else who sells this tial stuff, Looks like kinetic motorsports has a warehouse in canada
 
I dont mean to stir the pot, (seriously, I dont') but if it is acceptable to you to go thru all the gyrations, expense and unknowns of going turbo to the tune of about what ........... $7500???, and then have someone with a SHR 860 blow past you that cost them oh, $2500 ....... then go for it, and my sincere best wishs for you. Just be prepared for this eventuality. The only reason I post this here, is that I detest us snowmobilers spending good money (ALOT of money) and then have an inferior product on the mountain. Good luck to you.

I dropped $4000 on mine, installed. I ride in CO, which is nothing but high elevations. I too, had my kit built by Peak Powersports and tuning is/was a breeze. A couple runs after it's warmed up to check the PowerJets and I'm GTG. I run from 7# to 12# and after I swapped out my ported POS track that sled rocks hard. I too ran an 860 a couple years ago and I'd take my T-XP over that anyday of the week.

Rick builds and fabs everything right in his own shop, cutting the costs down bigtime! He's using the GT 2876. He welded my stock pipe up and I have had nothing but good rides since. I can't wait for the Snow to stack up and do it again.

not the place for this, derailed the thread huge. :frusty:

but to clarify I have ridden big bores and turbos at elevation never seen an 860 hold a candle to a turbo'ed sled climbing. a well tuned turbo does fine in the trees, not as responsive as the n/a but I can deal with that when I was running my sled with hi-comp head, pipe, reeds, it didnt seem like the 860 would go any where that my sled wouldnt. that being said I am going to do a turbo first.

Not really derailed, just took a ride at the switch and then got back on the main rails again. Afterall, you said you were considering a turbo, hence comments from NA sled riders.
 
860 keeping up with a good runing turbo. lol..........
I have rode with 860's, cat 925's, and cat 1200's. non where close to my little 154" turbo xp on 10lbs of boost.
I like it so much I will be riding it again this year for it's 3rd year on boost. 860 RTFLMAO......
 
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