Concrete experts

[Rattlin_Ram]

ok after reading the rebar and concrete thread was wondering any of the concrete guys on here could give me some advice?

I'm looking at buying an acreage with an existing Morton bldg. (pole barn) that measures 36'x40'. It is currently a dirt floor, how thick concrete slab would it take for a solid shop floor? Also for an apron out in front of the shop? I was thinkin 6"?

Also how many yards of concrete come on a truck?

Oh and how much rebar should I use to keep it from cracking?

 

[ArcticBoy]

4"is all you need. I hardly ever use re-bar on floor slabs unless there is a lot of backfill. If you think you need something use fiber-mesh, it's already mixed into the concrete from the plant. Most trucks haul 9-10 yards. The best way to keep from cracking is not to use too much water in the mix. A common mistake to make it easier to work.

 

[skibreeze]

4" is fine for residential apps. If you are even dreaming of putting in a lift, you will want to make sure that you put in at least 6" in that part of the garage. It's not a real garage unless you have a lift in it!

 

[maluchm]

Me personally I would go 6" with a good solid base and add the fiber if needed. And like Articboy mentioned, don't get it too soupy! My family has a 36' x 60' in Michigan with half of it at 6" and the back half separated and a dirt floor used for storage. Previously had farm equipment in there and the sloped approached has cracked after prolonged use.

 

[Uller]

IMO the thickness depends on the usage. How heavy will the vehicles or equipment be that will be using the garage? If it is anything over the weight of a standard pickup I would increase the thickness from 4" to 5 or even 6. I would put a few lengths of rebar by the heavily used areas, i.e. the garage entrance.

 

[Rattlin_Ram]

There will be a lift in there eventually... In general use will be for cars and trucks, however I will be parking my 3020 with loader in there, and possibly working on some tractors occasionally...

Sounds like to be safe it should be 6"???

 

[UintaVentureBoys]

I would go 6" in the main travel areas Like the entrance and center region of the shop. If you have a natural base and no fill was used, 4" to 5" can handle a helluva lotta abuse. We own a D8 Cat Dozer and our floor in our 45'x75' shop has never cracked. It's been poured for about 15 years now and as you can imagine, those huge iron tracks on the dozer would most likely bash a few potholes or cracks in a 4" floor but ours has taken the abuse. On the other hand the 3" walkway we poured last summer in front of the house has several cracks already due to the overuse of water.. Soupy cement makes for messy cleanup. From what i've seen a standard cement truck will hold about 9 yards depending on where their hauling too they may only load it with 7-8 yds.. deep in the mountains where we are the trucks usually don't push the weight issue when their offroading.

 

[Rattlin_Ram]

what if I want to do in floor radiant heat? Does that change anything?

 

[Good to Go]

what if I want to do in floor radiant heat? Does that change anything?

Don't drill...

No.



This thread is going a bit better than the last one...

 

[snowdad4]

set it up for 5" depth and up the sack mix to 5 1/2 or a 6 sack mix. (standard is 5 sack) the ultimate hard slab! skip the rebar and the fiber and roll in some 6x6 welded wire mesh. fiber finishes look like crap, unless you burn the fibers off before sealing. sealer is highly recommended regardless of what you pour. you just cant seal the fibermesh and make a smooth slab. your looking at about 27 tds at 4", 34 yds at 5". about $700 difference plus the added charge for more bags of portland, depending on demographics.

 

[Good to Go]

I was wrong... this thread sounds like the other one...

 

[Mag]

My garage slab is monolithic with 18" x 18" outer edges and 8" slab with wire and fiber mesh.

Concretes cheap!

 

[graveler]

ya right home owners here are paying $$$130 bucks for 5 sack, plus all the "EXTRAS"

 

[Mag]

ya right home owners here are paying $$$130 bucks for 5 sack, plus all the "EXTRAS"

I never pay retail, I get yard's of mud dumped back into the pond's daily. I'm pushing to get the company to let me recycle it.

 

[icr]

I did a radiant slab a few years ago...monolithic 18x18 footers with 6" slab....rebar and wire...30x40 shop.


It cracked, I've never seen a radiant floor that didn't.

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

My garage slab is monolithic with 18" x 18" outer edges and 8" slab with wire and fiber mesh.

Concretes cheap!

you only did that cause you was thinking yamaha huh? lmao

 

[Martlee]

The main reason concrete cracks is because it shrinks as the water that is in it evaporates as time goes on. Concrete shrinks about one-eighth of an inch per 25 feet of length. That causes the cracks so control joints need to be put in the slab at the right distances and that depends on the depth of slab. A 4 inch slab needs joints between 8 and 12 foot distances. A 6 inch slab needs joints between 12 and 18 foot distances. One of the main keys for a long lasting floor is a good solid base under the concrete.

 

[ArcticBoy]

Crissakes just go with a PT slab and park your 747 on it.