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Code 20 Troubles

sam_coleman

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I have a 2007 Apex with a custom turbo kit that is very similar to an Impulse set up and I am using an attitude fuel controller. I was riding this last weekend and it was running great then i was climbing a hill and blew the fuse for the fuel pump. I replaced the 10 amp fuse with a 15 amp fuse and now a code 20 pops up and I can't get it to go away. I have tried clearing it with the diagnostic mode, unhooking the battery for awhile, unhooking my fuel controller, and unplugging what i thought was the sensor and drying it with a hair dryer and putting dielectric grease on it. The error code still comes up. Any ideas? Where exactly is the sensor located? I just want to exhaust all possible problems before buying a new sensor. Thanks.
 
Unhook your oil dip stick clean that senser

That one should be good cause I just got the sled put back together and this was the first ride on the turbo. I cleaned the oil dipstick and put dielectric grease on it when i put oil in the tank.
 
What sensor did you take off? Where is it located? It could be either the barometric sensor or the map sensor. Have you checked them both?
 
What sensor did you take off? Where is it located? It could be either the barometric sensor or the map sensor. Have you checked them both?

Well hello Jed, this is the black sled that you rode in Fielding the other day. I took off the sensor that is mounted on the same bracket that holds the ECU. I asked the same question on ty4stroke and a guy responded to unplug my fuel controller and plug the stock connection back together then clear the code using the diagnostics. I did that and then plugged the Attitude box back together and ran it and the code is gone. Thanks for responding.
 
I figured that was you. How did she run? How about Kasey's?

What caused the code in the first place?
 
I figured that was you. How did she run? How about Kasey's?

What caused the code in the first place?

It runs absolutely incredible, I have never rode anything like it! The code popped up after I was climbing a hill and the motor made a big boom and came to a dead stop. After messing with it for awhile I noticed I couldn't hear my fuel pump running so I checked the fuse and it was blown. I replaced the 10 amp fuse with a 15 amp fuse and it fired right back up, but when it did it was throwing the code 20.

Kasey's was running good until he let me ride it while we were cranking the boost up and we blew the throttle bodies off. Now we have some wrenching to do to get her up and running for next weekend.
 
It runs absolutely incredible, I have never rode anything like it! The code popped up after I was climbing a hill and the motor made a big boom and came to a dead stop. After messing with it for awhile I noticed I couldn't hear my fuel pump running so I checked the fuse and it was blown. I replaced the 10 amp fuse with a 15 amp fuse and it fired right back up, but when it did it was throwing the code 20.

Blown fuses don't go "BOOM". Code 20 is low oil pressure, and the symptoms you describe sounds like more is going on than just electrical.:boink:
 
Blown fuses don't go "BOOM". Code 20 is low oil pressure, and the symptoms you describe sounds like more is going on than just electrical.:boink:

The boom I was referring to was a large backfire from the engine suddenly starving for fuel under boost. And I don't know where you area getting your code 20 information from but it is for the defective values being detected in the intake air pressure atmospheric pressure circuit.
 
Well hello Jed, this is the black sled that you rode in Fielding the other day. I took off the sensor that is mounted on the same bracket that holds the ECU. I asked the same question on ty4stroke and a guy responded to unplug my fuel controller and plug the stock connection back together then clear the code using the diagnostics. I did that and then plugged the Attitude box back together and ran it and the code is gone. Thanks for responding.

i have the same problem, i was wondering how you clear the codes using the diagnostics?
any help would be appreiciated.
thanks,
 
i have the same problem, i was wondering how you clear the codes using the diagnostics?
any help would be appreiciated.
thanks,

This information is off of ty4stroke.com, it is where I found out how to do it.

ERROR CODE RESET

- Kill switch on
- Hold select and reset down
- Turn key on
- Wait 8-seconds
- The gauge will display DI
- Let go of the buttons then hold select and reset again for 3-seconds
- The display will change to a numeric value
- Press reset and cycle through until gauge displays 61
- This is where codes are stored (if there is more than one it will cycle through)
- Press reset again until gauge displays 62
- Use your grip warmer rocker switch selecting the down position to delete the codes
 
It runs absolutely incredible, I have never rode anything like it! The code popped up after I was climbing a hill and the motor made a big boom and came to a dead stop. After messing with it for awhile I noticed I couldn't hear my fuel pump running so I checked the fuse and it was blown. I replaced the 10 amp fuse with a 15 amp fuse and it fired right back up, but when it did it was throwing the code 20.

Kasey's was running good until he let me ride it while we were cranking the boost up and we blew the throttle bodies off. Now we have some wrenching to do to get her up and running for next weekend.

That is fantastic, glad to hear it! I am still curious why you blew the fuse though.....any ideas?
So what you are telling me on Kasey's is, is the zip ties holding the intercooler down weren't up to the task? lol.
How did the clutching do?
 
This information is off of ty4stroke.com, it is where I found out how to do it.

ERROR CODE RESET

- Kill switch on
- Hold select and reset down
- Turn key on
- Wait 8-seconds
- The gauge will display DI
- Let go of the buttons then hold select and reset again for 3-seconds
- The display will change to a numeric value
- Press reset and cycle through until gauge displays 61
- This is where codes are stored (if there is more than one it will cycle through)
- Press reset again until gauge displays 62
- Use your grip warmer rocker switch selecting the down position to delete the codes


WICKED!!!!

thanks for helping me out, it worked perfect.
 
That is fantastic, glad to hear it! I am still curious why you blew the fuse though.....any ideas?
So what you are telling me on Kasey's is, is the zip ties holding the intercooler down weren't up to the task? lol.
How did the clutching do?

I think the fuse blew from using the bigger fuel pump on the stock wiring.

Yeah, the zip ties were not the best idea to hold it down. I am actually welding some new tabs on his intercooler to hold it down right this time, for some reason the ones that are on it are about an inch off. His clutching was ok, but i think he is going to give you a call to see exactly how you are running yours. It was a little sluggish getting off the line.
 
I kinda figured that it would be a little off but, you never know unless you try.

You know as I think about it, I believe I had to up the fuse on mine for the additional load as well........it's been a few years since then but I do think that was the case. Makes sense.
 
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