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Clutching the 503 (Questions) and what not to do.

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Thierry,
I was wondering that, as far as elevation.
I am running 180 on my (PTO) side and 170 on the (MAG)side
As far as Elevation I was doing my tests at 3500 to 4000

So with that said, whats a guy to do when he goes way up in elevation, will there need to be some changes as far as clutching??

Also if I make it to Hawkfest I am wondering what I should be running as far as jetting, any ideas on each of the above.
Harley

The higher you go, the less your engine creates HP because the thinner the air is. And that's the exact reason why a guy need to rejet for altitute. Theorically you loose 3 to 4% per 1000 feet. So let's say you're a 503 Snow-Hawk from Hamburg NY who's at 821' feet of elevation vs your 503 machine at 3821' (to make round numbers!). Well we have to admit that the 503 from NY at 821 feet will be more likely to produce 9 to 12% more power than yours. From this statement on, we can start talking about clutching. The more power you create the "more agressive" should your clutching be, opposite also applies.

In our particular case here, the weight you're putting in the Thundershift kit might change. Not a lot, but they could be in the same or similar %age as the elevation/HP being produced/lost. But that still has to be verified. As a "rough statement": a more powerful machine will pull more weight in the primary. But for sure a 503 guy near sea level that reproduce your setup will see a big difference.

Your receipe up there is gold for 503 riders !

Jetting for Hawkfest (7-10K) will be quite a guess for everybody except the locals !!!
 
Thierry,
I was wondering that, as far as elevation.
I am running 180 on my (PTO) side and 170 on the (MAG)side
As far as Elevation I was doing my tests at 3500 to 4000

So with that said, whats a guy to do when he goes way up in elevation, will there need to be some changes as far as clutching??

Also if I make it to Hawkfest I am wondering what I should be running as far as jetting, any ideas on each of the above.
Harley

What belt are you running and how high does it ride up on the driven? Just curious.

Thanks,

Chris
 
Belt

I will go to the trailer tomorrow and take a gander at what belt I am running, I do know it's an Artic Cat Belt and I am running it pretty high out of the secondary.
 
Belt Size

Ok, I did not run down to the Trailer to find the belt size, but rather I called Bud to see if he could remember what we were running.
The belt we are running fits an Artic Cat F7, We both think the # is 062-020
It's the ticket to making this all work well.
 
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Thanks,

I gotta try one of these belts. The carlile belt I'm running now is just a little short. The 0627-020 is 47 3/4 by 1 13/32 where my carlile is 47 1/32 by 1 13/32. I'm sure your cat belt will be the cat's meaw in the driven clutch that I'm running.

Chris
 
Last edited:
couple of questions

Thanks for the info on clutching the 503.

I'm finally ripping mine apart to replace jackshaft bearings and just happen to have a cat secondary and 020 belt sitting on the shelf.

What are you guys using to adapt the AC secondary to the stock shaft? shims and keyway? Where can I get what's needed to complete the swap?

Thanks again and keep the good info flowing
 
works

I did this method last year works but not the best. I did the jackshaft update this year and now it self aligns freely and is perfect setup.

I just raped the jackshaft with 003" steel shim stock, you will then need to have someone mill the top of your keystock down to allow the secondary to slid on the shaft.
 
If I had over 100hp I'd consider needing the steel jackshaft setup for the cat secondary,but cant see where the 60hp would ever pose a problem for the stock aluminum shaft with good bearings. I have some shim stock, but am gonna have to figure out the key yet.

Did anyone mod there keyway succesfully with common shop tools or is there an offset key from another app. that might work best?
 
not HP issue

HP is not the cause of problems. it the combination of metal and aluminum sliding across each other. I kept mine well greased and the shim stock still deteriated rather quick. If you really want I think i have a extra key around.
 
What do you mean rather quickly? did it last a half a season or were you rewrapping the stock after every ride? Im not a halfasser,if it means I need to buy the shaft, who and how do I contact the maker? Thanks
 
Thanks

I bit the bullet and sent payment for the new jackshaft.

BH....I"m curious as to what helix and spring your running at sealevel.

Mine currently has a 56-52 in it with a green spring,but dont recall if it came off my 500 or 700 and would like to have it setup before the shaft arrives.
 
i have a 45 and yellow spring i think? id have to ask bud. pretty sure its yellow and he sent me a blue to try. the thing is rippin right now!!! i rode a stock 600 and can honestly say my 503 felt a touch snappier and pulled almost as hard! i know his belt is riding a bit low and we need to adjust that and the jetting may be off, so its not at its full potential..... what is the diff between yellow and blue spring other than color (you wise arses!) and what will that do if i change it?
 
secondary spring info for cat roller

green 157 sideload Lbs
red/white 116 lbs
yellow 92 lbs
blue 79 lbs
white 58 lbs
black 42 lbs

the less lbs the easier the upshift and the slower the backshift. I would think you could pull a steeper helix and maybe a diff. spring too. I hope to do some testing on my 6 for the flat lands soon.

You can keep going to a softer spring on steeper helix untill it won't hold full rpm when you punch it. If you hit max rpm and it holds it go softer or steeper or both.






i have a 45 and yellow spring i think? id have to ask bud. pretty sure its yellow and he sent me a blue to try. the thing is rippin right now!!! i rode a stock 600 and can honestly say my 503 felt a touch snappier and pulled almost as hard! i know his belt is riding a bit low and we need to adjust that and the jetting may be off, so its not at its full potential..... what is the diff between yellow and blue spring other than color (you wise arses!) and what will that do if i change it?
 
I find it very weird that AC springs are only rated with "one" of the 2 "forces" it creates. There should be 2 numbers like all the other manufacturers : a start force (uncompressed or "at rest") and a finish force (fully compressed at full shift).

Is there an AC Guru who can explain this to me, Bud ?

I think it is critical to know both forces... How can you tune if ou only know one of the 2 ? Let's say we have this situation : the guy has a 140-220 in a Team (regardless of the rest of the setup), he likes the upshift he's got but complains that the system keeps wanting to upshift for too long instead of holding strong RPM, hurting his backshift capabilities too much. To this problem I'd say : increase the finish force and go to a 140-240. Throughout the shift the spring will push a little harder and retain the shift a bit more towards the end, probaby just what he needs to get quicker backshift. Staying 140 with the start force he'll keep its "out of the hole punch / upshift" we're all looking for.
 
I changed out the Primary Spring, This thing rocks

Ok, guys I switched out my Polaris Dark Blue/white stripe. Primary spring to the Polaris Almond/Gold spring. She is a bit weaker of a spring on take off but finishes about the same. I found that my engagment was a bit to high for my liking. The Almond/gold spring was the ticket, this thing rocks now, pulls super hard all the way thru with the same weights I was running above. If you are thinking about going this route I highly reccomend it.
I rode Mt. Baker today and I was climbing like nobodys business.
Harley
 
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