I have 13 Pro with BD turbo set up on it that's working good. This season I thought I would try a Team Tied Secondary on it to hopefully help with belt life. I also installed Dalton adjustable weights that are currently at 70g's with a 165/310 primary spring. At 6 psi of boost I'm pulling 8050 RPM. I started to add more boost to get a 100 more RPM out of it and went all the 9.5psi without the RPM changing. I'm confident in saying the sled is producing that boost level and more power, but I'm not seeing any track speed gain or RPM change. I was testing on a long steep even hill so the snow conditions shouldn't be a factor. Could this be an issue of having the wrong helix in the secondary? Too steep maybe? Or is there something else I'm missing?
Clutching Help
- Thread starter snowjunkie82
- Start date
5000', 180/300 Spring, Straight 67 Helix
The primary spring I'm running at the moment is an RCS titanium spring. I've heard mixed reviews on these. I will try a steel spring and let you know the results.
And to much secondary spring.
This is on a Team Tied though. I think the rule of thumb for helix numbers are to add 20* to a TSS-04. So that seems to be pretty close to me for a straight angle. I would agree with turbonium, if you change your boost and don't see rpm increase, that means either you have reached the maximum capacity of your turbo, or you have an boost leak or exhaust leak.
I'm assuming the boost is increasing because after every test pass I would clear the stat screen on the BD box and the max psi was staying about 0.5 above the set psi which is what I've normally saw. This takes it's reading from the inter cooler so if there was a leak it would have to be between the inter cooler and engine in which case I should be seeing performance issues. As in rich rough idle conditions ect. Am I incorrect to assume this?
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briand
Well-known member
Think your building boost is fine. secondary spring rate is fine just a little steep on the angle. thinking a 61 or 63 might be the best angle for you. I have now installed the 180-300 spring to get a little more response in the bottom end.
haven't run mine yet this year but i was thinking of even trying the 61 helix. I felt that at times that i was getting a little slippage with the 63. hope this helps.
I will try the Helix on the 63 setting and see if it helps. How did you diagonse the belt silage on the secondary? A temperature differential between the two clutches?
I'm running a 180/280 with a straight 48. So if tied is +20. I'd say your close
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briand
Well-known member
there was a team clutch spreadsheet put on snowest a few years ago and can't find it now. will look and put it on here but i used this to covert the tso4 clutch setup i had working todd and the recommended setup that the calculator came up with was a 59 to 63 degree helix for the tied with a 180-300 spring rate. I used this and it worked fine so far.
So I've tried a couple go things with no success. Tried the steel primary, the 63 helix and still have the same results. Revs to 8050 and wont rev higher regardless of how much boost I add. The one thing I did find is the primary is fully shifting out. I should mention that I have a camo 3X with 7T drivers. Am I just out of gear? If this were the case shouldn't I be over reving not under? I'm going to try putting the old secondary back on just to make sure it's an issue in the clutching.
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briand
Well-known member
Are your motor mounts all OK? None broken causing center to center to be out while under load? Are there any broken motor case Mont bolts especially by recoil front side. These are things you could check. Other then that I am kinda lost for answers. Will try to think of other ideas.
I checked motor mounts and belt alignment at the start of the season (I've only ridden three days) and they seem fine. I also have a SLP torque arm and boost it torque stop on the sled. I had a suggestion that my track may be running to loose and rubbing on the tunnel so I will check that also. Thanks again for all the help.
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briand
Well-known member
It just hit me now snowjunkie but I also have the dalton adjustable weights and had some rpm trouble last year and found that when i added additional weight it was very important not to add or turn in the setscrew down much past 2/3 of the way in. I was get serious overrev in the bottom end and not enough rev in the top end, like you say only around 7900 to 8100 rpm. I back out the setscrew to about 2/3 or say about 20 turns in from the head of the setscrew flush with the weight. could be something to look at. Daltons adjustable weights dont need a lot of weight added like other aftermarket weights to get the same effect. Now you say your are at 70 gram so maybe you don't have any extra weight added. Just a thought.
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briand
Well-known member
About the shifting out of the primary. thats possible . Might be worth a try also to gear it up, that is if you did not gear up to compensate for the gear ratio drop from the 7 tooth drivers. you could be getting some slippage in the secondary at that high rate of shift out. Mine primary does not shift out all the way but im running stock drivers with a 2.5 track. Another option you should check out.
