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Clutching Basics

dgreet77

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
First off I want to say thanks to RKT, WinterBrew, Milehighassassin, and especially KSH for helping me out with this.

Also Clutching is not this simple; it all works together and affects each other, this is simply a breakdown of basic stuff to help beginners so lets not turn it into some huge deal, that probably goes in the Clutching Theory thread.

If you have anything you think should be added to this list, PM me and I'll check it out and come back and edit if I need to. Also I'm NOT any sort of clutching genius or guru, in fact pretty much the opposite, I just compiled this to help beginners. Thanks!

Primary Clutch

• Use to control RPM’s via weights
• Use to control engagement via spring
• If hotter than secondary belt slipping more in primary
• If hotter than secondary use softer spring or more weight to add “squeeze” to primary; also accomplished by lessening “squeeze” in secondary


Primary Springs​

• Use to control engagement
• Higher numbers = stiffer spring
• Higher first number = higher engagement
• Higher numbers generally = more weight needed
• Higher last number = more “top end” and/or RPM’s
• Too high last number = incomplete shift
• Too low last number = too quick shift


Flyweights

• Use to control RPM’s – more weight = less RPM’s
• Heel (close to pin) weight affects beginning of shift (slow speeds)
• Toe weight affects end of shift (high speeds)
• More heel weight = better low speed (crawling)
• More toe weight = better high speed


Secondary Clutch

• Torque Sensing
• Use to control Backshift
• Up shift = clutch opening = shifting up/out = increasing speed (generally, not always since the clutch is torque sensing)
• Backshift = clutch closing = shifting down = decreasing speed (generally, not always since the clutch is torque sensing)
• If hotter than primary belt slipping more in secondary


Secondary Springs

• Use to control backshift
• Softer spring = more up-shift = more MPH
• Stiffer spring = better backshift
• Stiffer spring keeps clutch in “lower gear” longer


Helix

• Use to control upshift
• Also Torque Sensing
• Main “force” on secondary sheaves; shallower angle = more “side load”
• Shallower angle (smaller number) = slower upshift and faster backshift
 
Last edited:
Something to note with gearing. You will get more efficiency out of your clutches by using the largest gear on top as possible.

So lets say you are looking for something around a 1.95 ratio on an IQ (8.373 CD), you have the following options:
22 top gear and 43 bottom gear, or 21 top and a 41 bottom, the setup with the 22 top will be more efficient and create less heat.
 
I'm sure this isn't specific to Arctic Cat clutching, but I will pose the question as it relates to my sled anyway.

I currently have a 2006 Arctic Cat Crossfire 700.

The stock secondary helix for low altitude is a 44/40.

The high altitude secondary helix is a straight 36.

I've heard tuners recommend a 46/38 for this sled setup.

Can somebody tell me WHAT these different helixes will affect?

Low end acceleration? Top end acceleration?

Thanks.

Rick
 
I'm sure this isn't specific to Arctic Cat clutching, but I will pose the question as it relates to my sled anyway.

I currently have a 2006 Arctic Cat Crossfire 700.

The stock secondary helix for low altitude is a 44/40.

The high altitude secondary helix is a straight 36.

I've heard tuners recommend a 46/38 for this sled setup.

Can somebody tell me WHAT these different helixes will affect?

Low end acceleration? Top end acceleration?

Thanks.

Rick

I have not rode a M7, so I have ask.
Your sled is completely stock and they are recommending the 46/38 for altitude in a stock sled?
 
Yes, my Crossfire is completely stock. No engine mods.

The helix recommendation was for low altitude if I remember correctly.

I run my crossfire at 1500' and at about 9000' out west.

I have two separate 10" secondary clutches. I'm hoping to set up one of them for flatland riding and one for mountain use.

Thanks!

Rick
 
EDITED: Sorry guys I had what the helix did backwards. Its now fixed. Shallower angle = slower upshift and faster backshift.

Thanks to WinterBrew for the heads up and thewayout84 for noticing it in the clutching theory thread!!
 
EDITED: Sorry guys I had what the helix did backwards. Its now fixed. Shallower angle = slower upshift and faster backshift.

Thanks to WinterBrew for the heads up and thewayout84 for noticing it in the clutching theory thread!!

Actually it's my BAD, You changed it from our conversation.
 
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