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clutching basic-is for the IQ RMK and the dragons

There our more then one way to clutch!! also do you wont load the motor hard for better tourque? or ski lift in a drag race.
most on here with dragons have 155 and163 tracks and need to load the motor so it will not trench (62, 64, 66, for you first angle does this.

Clutch man you kind of lost me. (talking 700 155 IQ) Are you saying to avoid trenching one should load the motor by using a steep start angle such as a 62, 64, 66 or should one use a shallower start angle such as a 58 or 54 for less initial engine load? Thanks

snoboy
 
I have a fair bit of clutching experience on polaris trail sleds and we also run a 1000 ps amd a 1000 om with a 990 htg that runs 4.8's on ice......self-admittedly limited deep snow experience. If you run heavy wts and a big helix off the start to load the motor enough to prevent trenching, if i'm reading you right, your motor is overloaded and thus track spin is reduced??? Yes, that is possible. Then falling off the start angle .36 inches up the helix allows the engine to recover?? Ok now I can see this working. I know that carls uses helix's in the 60 degree range and maybe that is why. A rapid upshift out of the hole does get the belt out of the start position in the primary clutch resulting in less slippage....basically what polaris adopted years ago on stock helixs. Does somebody have a clear explanation of this high-angle startup?? One thing you said that caught my attention was the use of the same helix on different engines. The best performing helix I ever used in a xc800 polaris was a 46/34F for startup, middle and top and still work in a couple feet of snow. Surprisngly, we use the same helix in our 990. It sixty foots under 1 second and is in the 135 range in 660. We use a $30 drive belt because its softer and narrower and we throw it out after 10 runs. The reason the helix works in both sleds is that it is torque-sensing....the more belt pull applied to the secondary, the greater the side force and the greater the ability to upshift. Well, i've side tracked abit....appreciate all the info, clutchman and everyone else on this forum.
 
Great thread!!! I need someclutching advice! 2006 900 Switchback 144" 210 studs runnin cpi 10hp pipe. Agressive trail rider and some offtrail when I can. My sled had an EPI kit on it when I got it, and my perc doesn't work properly with the helix from EPI because its not an ER helix. EPI wont divulge the angles of the helix or the spring rates for that matter. I need a new ER helix and springs for, fast trail, drags, and offtrail fun 1000-2500' Elev. 280# rider.

Sled runs fine with the epi kit, could use a lil more top end pull. really Id just like to know which ER helix to replace the epi helix with. And to know what spring rates are in the kit so I can replace them when they break or sack out. Thanks
 
Great thread!!! I need someclutching advice! 2006 900 Switchback 144" 210 studs runnin cpi 10hp pipe. Agressive trail rider and some offtrail when I can. My sled had an EPI kit on it when I got it, and my perc doesn't work properly with the helix from EPI because its not an ER helix. EPI wont divulge the angles of the helix or the spring rates for that matter. I need a new ER helix and springs for, fast trail, drags, and offtrail fun 1000-2500' Elev. 280# rider.

Sled runs fine with the epi kit, could use a lil more top end pull. really Id just like to know which ER helix to replace the epi helix with. And to know what spring rates are in the kit so I can replace them when they break or sack out. Thanks

anyone ??!!??
 
When I had my 800 in 06, i phoned erlandson and the girl started trying to sell me "the kit". I said I talked to Glen at haydays and he said to ask for him. So i got Glen on the line and asked him wtf is with the polaris team clutching?? He said he has no idea what polaris has been smoking.....their clutching makes no sense. OK What do I do? My stock helix was a 64-44 .46 and he sent me a "custom 54-42F/54-44F, red primary spring 145-300, purple secondary spring 140-240 same as stock but fewer coils. I put the 54-42 in, with 64g wts......and it absolutely ran away from an xc800 that we spent all winter clutching. The problem with the stock helix is a start angle that is too high...it won't light up with 66g's, so you go to 64's and it fall on its face at 50-80 mph where the heix angle goes to 42....so you go back to 66's with a 165-330 spring raise the engagement and it won't pull on top.....well, it will until you pull into 2 ft of snow. The same setup with 68-70g in your 900 I can see working well.
 
great thread. i have a stock 2010 assault and mostly ride between 3 to 6k feet with an occational 8-9k ride. i ride extremely hard and have been pulling threads off my belts and my belt/clutch temps have been very high. i have the slp vent kit but obviously need to do some clutching and do not know where to start. i am extremely happy with the way my sled/clutches perform other than the temps. any advice would be greatly appreciated
 
2012 600 144 ( stock) 1450 miles, wanna change the primary spring for maintainence, but decided to go with an epi 150/340 bright green spring. stock spring is 140/330. what am i gaining or losing by doing this?
 
It will engage at 4200 RPM and you will get about 50 to 100 more rpm on top. Basically you are taking a load off the motor.good if you want some more snap on the bottom and you are only pulling 8100 up top. It will allow you to get more RPMs up top with out changing 2 grams of weight that will cause you to over rev.
 
I'm running a totally stock 2008 600 Shift 155" at elevations from 6500-9500'. What recommendations for clutching both primary and secondary. Riding style is more into bushwacking rather than the high mark efforts. Recommendations would be appreciated.
 
Clutchman your inbox is full.
Need some advice for clutching on a 2007 Switchback 600cfi that I'm converting to mountain riding please..

146" Assault 2.25" lug belt and 19-42 gearing seems to be doing great at the low altitudes that we normally ride (3000ft) but I'm struggling to get the right rpms.
Only seeing 7800rpm on steep climbs, getting to 8000rpm when incline decreases. I really should be seeing 8200rpm+ afaik..

Gonna try a new standard primary spring first to see if that makes the difference, but I'm wondering if it needs lighter weights or a different helix?
Everything is standard engine and clutching wise.

Thanks for any advice!
 
What spring and weights are you running now?

Weights are standard 10-62.
Primary spring is 120-340 as standard from Polaris but I doubt it's been changed from the sled was new, hence me ordering a new one.

Tha standard helix is 64/42-.36 with a Red/Black spring. I belive that spring is 140/240.

Thanks :)
 
Ok I'm a little confused:

early there is a statement about the helix being wrong for polaris sleds except the 09 dragon. 56 being stock on the 09 800dragon.

Then the thread talks about running in the 60's range to prevent trenching.

My 800 basically stock 41/19 gearing- Ride 4 - 7K plus feet ad I weight about 225 - 235lbs.

My 09 800 dragon 155 currently has a 60/40ER .36. Primary: 62 weights, 140 / 340 - Blue/ Pink ....Team 04: 160-240 - Black Purple, SLP recommended 155-222 - Blk / Red with delrin washer at each end

I seem to recall that SLP recommended a 58 helix as being better....

Your thoughts clutch people?
 
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Noone?
I'm particularly interested in your views on trying 10-60 weights or a different helix :)
 
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