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Clutch Tools

M

MoSnow

New member
Can anyone tell me exactly what special tools I need to isnatall a Dynamoe Joe clutch kit in a 2009 summit XP 800 (146")? Also any tips on the install would be much appreciated as I haven't done any real clutch work before but want to get get familiar with them. Thanks.
 
You will need the standard primary clutch puller to remove the primary, then a spring tool to hold the governor cup to change the primary spring. (I just use a long piece of ready-rod in the vice with a big washer and a nut....the spring is long so leave about 3" of threads in able to safely release the tension)

For the secondary you need to first remove the shaft and secondary as a unit....not a difficult job....if you choose to leave the chaincase cover on and support the top gear, make sure you don't drop the spacer behind the gear. If you've never done it, just remove the chaincase cover....probably time to change the oil anyways. There's also a 13mm nut on the bearing retainer behind the secondary. With the secondary on the bench (I clamp it in the vice with a rag veeeery carefully as the shaft is hollow), you need a special spring tool that screws in where the belt adjuster goes to relieve the pressure so you can loosen the 4 bolts holding the helix on. Use blue Loctite when reinstalling the new helix.
 
Excellent! Thanks for the help Dave. Now just gotta find time this summer to do the work.
 
Another vote for CTPowersorts tools, nice stuff at a good price.
Another tip....if the jackshaft assembly doesn't come out easily, apply a little propane heat to the casting around the bearing behind the secondary....not too much. This makes it alot easier 9/10 times. Some get corroded in there and can be a bugger.
We also made a tool that screws into the gear end of the jackshaft to tap on and also to help get the gear centered when assembling with the chaincase cover on.
 
I was able to get the helix / spring out by standing on the secondary holding the jackshaft. Used some 1x2 scraps to help balance myself while I backed off the torx. Kind of spooky once you get the bolts out - hop off quick or cover your nuts!
 
That's good stuff! One customer had a helix shoot across the shop and almost take out the fender of a freshly painted black street rod. I think He'll be using a compressor next time. :beer;
 
You will need the standard primary clutch puller to remove the primary, then a spring tool to hold the governor cup to change the primary spring. (I just use a long piece of ready-rod in the vice with a big washer and a nut....the spring is long so leave about 3" of threads in able to safely release the tension)

For the secondary you need to first remove the shaft and secondary as a unit....not a difficult job....if you choose to leave the chaincase cover on and support the top gear, make sure you don't drop the spacer behind the gear. If you've never done it, just remove the chaincase cover....probably time to change the oil anyways. There's also a 13mm nut on the bearing retainer behind the secondary. With the secondary on the bench (I clamp it in the vice with a rag veeeery carefully as the shaft is hollow), you need a special spring tool that screws in where the belt adjuster goes to relieve the pressure so you can loosen the 4 bolts holding the helix on. Use blue Loctite when reinstalling the new helix.

DIDO^^^^^^^^
I replaced the "4 torq bolts that hold the helix with regular head bolts" so you dont have to remove the shaft next time.
or
I've been meaning to machine up a gear/sprocket shaft so you dont have to take the chain cover off and the sprocket wont fall down.
 
I was able to get the helix / spring out by standing on the secondary holding the jackshaft. Used some 1x2 scraps to help balance myself while I backed off the torx. Kind of spooky once you get the bolts out - hop off quick or cover your nuts!

I have to ask, how the he!! do you get it back together, assuming you lived through getting it apart???
 
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