Clutch removal fail

[Moto1000]

I'm sure clutch removal procedures have been posted a million times but I am having no luck pulling my primary off.

Its a 2011 pro with around 1000 miles. I don't believe the clutch has ever been removed even tho my dealer has serviced the sled before. I have the puller installed and is torqued on there very tight. Doesn't seem to want to pop off. I've tapped the end with a hammer like the shop manual says but It not working.

what next?

also, what is everyone using to hold the clutch from spinning? Is there an easy home made solution or should I buy that tool too?

thanks

 

[milo303]

I'm not clutch master but you shouldn't be tapping the clutch puller

You can put the sled on it's side and pour boiling water into the thread hole and then use the tool to make the clutch pop off.

Did you already try putting a good dab of grease on the end of the tool before trying to remove it?

Most people use a broom handle to keep the clutch from rolling over when applying pressure. Not very good on the secondary, but tons of people have done it successfully

 

[McLaughlin_7]

i usaully just stick a pry bar or a solid pipe through the clutch to hold it then just run the puller in as tight as you can get it the give a nice good smack on the end with a hammer it works everytime

 

[doox]

Grease the threads and the tip of the puller that always helps. An impact wrench really helps. Also put hot water on the fixed sheave . That has worked for me.

 

[richracer1]

Grease the threads and the tip of the puller that always helps. An impact wrench really helps. Also put hot water on the fixed sheave . That has worked for me.

The worst thing to use is an impact wrench. Take your grease gun and squirt a good blob of grease inside the hole, thread in you puller and start to tighten it. If you have enough grease, it should pop off easily.

I witnessed the same situation your going through now. The guy did what I mentioned above and had to barely tighten down on the puller when the clutch popped off. Just make sure you clean the inside of the clutch and inside & out on the crank snout really good.

 

[turbolover]

In order to get a clutch off of an old sled, I had to run the puller up as tight as I could and the I heated the inner part of the clutch and the fixed sheave with a little propane torch. Keep heating and tightening with a little not so easy tapping with a hammer. It finally came off.
It was on a 1997 488 fanner. Not sure if that thing had ever been off. The heating and tightening finally got it to come off.

Sometimes they can be a DIRTY B@$!@RD to get off.

 

[winter4ever]

If you get it off the best thing you can do to prevent this from happening again is to get some like 220 grit and polish the end of the crank taper. get all the chunks off and next time it will pop off like nothing.

 

[bowtieboy]

sometimes we have had to fill the hole completely full of grease, to the point it pushes out when you put the puller in. Usually they pop pretty quick like that.

 

[Moto1000]

Thanks for all the advise, couple things I had tried already and a few new tips that I had not thought of.

Still no luck tho. I have everything greased up, torqued up and even tried a little heat, nothing has worked so far. I have not tried an impact yet and don't really want to unless all else fails. I figured with only 1000 miles on it, I wouldn't have much trouble getting it off.

I going to pull it over onto its side and try filling it with grease. or water?

hopefully it'll work

 

[Reg2view]

I just pulled a stubborn one off a guys sled this weekend, 11 pro, 1k plus miles. Tried grease, first, so it was tight. Always grease puller lightly on threads, and tip, regardless. Grease first is good for what you're going to do next.

Bolt out of primary. Tip sled on mag side, put a few ounce of water in the primary bolt hole/stub. No need to boil or anything. Wrap teflon tape on the puller where the threads first engage, or use a little soft electrical tape in a pinch. Insert puller until wrapped threads get engaged into the primary. Tip back up on track. Slowly tighten puller, no water leaking out, of course. I assume you have a clutch holder. That primary will pop off before the puller bottoms, guaranteed. Clean up the puddles, blow out the crank stub with compressed air. Brake clean and more compressed air in the stub if you're worried it isn't dry. You have grease in there already. Good luck. If it doesn't work, it will be first I've ever heard of, or you did something wrong.

 

[GREICO1]

I wish that people would stop tapping the end of the pullers. This does nothing but transfer energy to the crank. Hitting the SIDE of the end of the puller about every 120 degrees will help to release the taper. Think about it, if you can break the seal on the taper, the clutch comes loose. I have removed many, many clutches by hand, with hand tools, and rarely need water, grease, or air tools to do so. Usually, if it won't come off with this method, none of the others work either. Not necessarily the rule, but probably 95% of the time. Crank runout? You don't have to pound on it, just a firm tap-no issue.

 

[winter brew]

Tip the sled on side, fill the cavity with water, wrap the puller threads with Teflon tape (7-8-9 wraps) and thread it in....it will pop the clutch before the puller even touches the crank if the tape seals....might have to try different number of wraps to get a seal. It will pop with a 6" ratchet and holding the clutch with your hand....no heat, no hammers, no mess, no effort!

 

[Moto1000]

hmmm well this is one stubborn b**ch!

Tried the water/teflon tape trick which everyone I talk to assures me works and to no avail. Even tried it 3 times!

I think the dealer is going to have to handle this one. I'm out of ideas and patience. Thanks for the help tho. I'll post an update when I take it in, hopefully they'll have better luck.

 

[m8magicandmystery]

hope ya have the right puller...

anyway...the water and teflon...on its side...tighten right up real real good...have the sled outside in freezing temp over night..the clutch will be off in the morning..

 

[Race]

Tip the sled on side, fill the cavity with water, wrap the puller threads with Teflon tape (7-8-9 wraps) and thread it in....

^^^

If you still can't get it off by doing this just leave it as is and park it outside to freeze and let the expansion of the freeze do the job. I haven't tried this idea but read about it hear on Snowest years ago, so if anybody is familiar with this please chime in. I guess you could use just a bolt. Maybe on second thought if its on so tight it would bust the inner portion of the primary before it pops off?

 

[Race]

hope ya have the right puller...

anyway...the water and teflon...on its side...tighten right up real real good...have the sled outside in freezing temp over night..the clutch will be off in the morning..

haha thinking on the same wave length

 

[GoBigParts]

When ever I have a stubborn one I put teflon tape on the threads of the puller. Then put the end of the grease gun in the hole that the clutch bolt came out of. Then pump it with 4-5 pumps sometimes more of grease. Thread in puller. This works like hydraulics and pops it right off. Then I clean the great out of the center of the clutch and off the puller.

 

[winter brew]

hmmm well this is one stubborn b**ch!

Tried the water/teflon tape trick which everyone I talk to assures me works and to no avail. Even tried it 3 times!

I think the dealer is going to have to handle this one. I'm out of ideas and patience. Thanks for the help tho. I'll post an update when I take it in, hopefully they'll have better luck.

More tape....or maybe a different tape, some is real thin, some thicker. If the tape seals it WILL pop off....if water gets by the tape it won't. I have had some tape that just didn't work very good. Might be worth another try before going to the dealer.
Also....does it NEED to be removed? Pretty much everything but a reshim or rebuild can be done on the sled.

 

[Deucer]

I have found the electrical tape works better. The sticky side grabs the threads better and doesn't ball up and get pushed off the thread. Don't use as much because it is thicker.

Little harder to get off when done.

BTW

My 11 was the same way. Worked on that stubborn SOB three nights in a row after work before it finally came off.

I was like you, (take it to the Dealer) Then I thought, "What the hell, he is just going to whack with the impact gun anyhow."

So I kept at it until it finally came loose.

I had to take mine off to install different motor mount bolts.

D

 

[milo303]

Try the boiling water