wanted to know can I use the same clutch puller,that I used on the stock primary clutch ,for the newer one that is bigger.I have the Indy's TM1. seem to be having a hard time getting it off.wanting to put a new spring in it. thanks
Clutch puller Question
- Thread starter river
- Start date
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danduvall
Well-known member
You can change a primary spring with the clutch on the motor, in the sled.!! I think its almost easier to leave the clutch on and use your knee to hold the cover on while ya remove and install the 6 cover bolts.
How is your new clutch bigger? Are you referring to the HD clutch that has the bigger cover bushing?
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How is your new clutch bigger? Are you referring to the HD clutch that has the bigger cover bushing?
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Dan is right on the money, as usual!
But, its also a good idea to pull the clutch off before the season and get all the build up and crud out, scotch brite the sheaves, etc.. I run mine thru the dishwasher when my wife is out shopping.
If you're having trouble getting it off, lay the sled on its side and pour water into where the puller goes, then put the puller in (with grease on the threads, of course) and use the hydraulics of the water in the tight space to pop it off.
But, its also a good idea to pull the clutch off before the season and get all the build up and crud out, scotch brite the sheaves, etc.. I run mine thru the dishwasher when my wife is out shopping.
If you're having trouble getting it off, lay the sled on its side and pour water into where the puller goes, then put the puller in (with grease on the threads, of course) and use the hydraulics of the water in the tight space to pop it off.
thank you both that's a good Idea with the water and grease and yes I have the bigger PTO on the crank with the new Indy clutch. and his TM1 (that's why I wanted to know if the same puller I had will still work on this bigger one ?
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danduvall
Well-known member
I'm not versed in the TM setups... but I'm going to bet that the PTO stub is bigger on the crank and there's a larger taper inside of a typical p-85 primary. ?! In which case the poo clutch puller should still work! If it was me, I'd giver hell with the standard 800 puller.
I imagine Indy machined the stub and clutch taper to EXACTING tolerances... so she'll really POP on the way off!
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The TM1 setup does not change the taper of the clutch...if you have the original crankshaft from 05-06 its a 30mm taper crank stub and clutch. If you have the upgraded kit, you have the 32mm crank stub and clutch...
No matter what end you have, IndyDan will not change the crank stub to a larger size unless it's the TM3 which is a 33mm crank stub and Arctic Cat clutch
Long story short, no matter what polaris primary or crank end (30mm or 32mm) you have, they upset he same clutch puller
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No matter what end you have, IndyDan will not change the crank stub to a larger size unless it's the TM3 which is a 33mm crank stub and Arctic Cat clutch
Long story short, no matter what polaris primary or crank end (30mm or 32mm) you have, they upset he same clutch puller
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thanks all, man still have a hard time getting this thing off,I even bent the bar that I holds the clutch with. and the clutch puller bent a little too. never had this much of a problem before. wow. even put water in and also did it with WD-40 and grease on the threads . and no go.?????
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danduvall
Well-known member
http://www.hardcoresledder.com/forums/showthread.php?t=815801
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danduvall
Well-known member
Get a grade 8 bolt with the same threads as on your clutch puller.... fill the inside of the clutch (where you put the puller in) with grease, completely! Install the new grade 8 hand tight to pack the grease in and top it off with more grease! Then wrap the threads of the grade 8 with Teflon tape.... hold clutch... and run the grade 8 back in with a GOOD 1/2" impact gun!
I usually shove the tip of my grease gun all the way into the crank stub and pump grease as I slowly pull the tip out! ( lol that's what she said) to help eliminate air pockets
EDIT: make sure your grade 8 threads into the clutch post sufficiently before it starts putting pressure on the grease!!
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I usually shove the tip of my grease gun all the way into the crank stub and pump grease as I slowly pull the tip out! ( lol that's what she said) to help eliminate air pockets
EDIT: make sure your grade 8 threads into the clutch post sufficiently before it starts putting pressure on the grease!!
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Teflon tape and water WILL get your clutch off... I was going to have the local shop service my clutch when my spider nut came loose and they tried everything they had and it wouldn't budge... claimed they had NEVER had a clutch they couldn't get off and the only option they gave me was to cut it off and buy a new clutch.... I took the sled back home and with teflon tape (lots of it) and water I had the clutch off in under 5 minutes with only hand tools. Best thing with water is no mess!
P.S. The service manager just about fell over when I walked in the door and set my clutch on his counter the next afternoon.
P.S. The service manager just about fell over when I walked in the door and set my clutch on his counter the next afternoon.
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danduvall
Well-known member
Will using a puller with the water / grease trick work? I've only ever used a bolt for hydraulic clutch removal. Didn't think a puller would make enough displacement?! I like using grease because the sled doesn't need to be tipped on its side. but yeah, grease requires clean up!
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I bent my clutch holder and had a breaker bar on the clutch puller rod as well...first time off after 2K miles from original owner is a bitch. Its not reccomended, but I gave mine a few light hits with a 2lb hand sledge
Crank it as hard as you can get it, then try a bit more......go to bed.....in the morning you'll most likely see a clutch popped off.
Yup, standard puller, sled on side, hole filled with water, and LOTS of teflon tape on the threads... push on the puller as you start the threads and then keep cranking and prepare for the bang. If the teflon fails and it squirts water out, reset with more water and teflon... it will work... it's all hydraulic pressure.
I usually pack a little bit of grease inside the clutch bolt hole and use the puller and tighten as much as I can with a breaker bar and clutch holder and if it hasn't popped off by then I carefully smack it with a solid rubber, not a dead blow, hammer and it comes off. I have only ever had a clutch come off of one of these motors one time by using the puller only. That was on a 700 and when the clutch finally came off it sounded like the crank or something broke! It was definitely tight cause both pistons were melted tight to the cylinders and I actually got the motor to turn over a little bit while removing the clutch.
Thanks again all,
for the Idea's. will be trying it again with the tape and water this weekend and hope to hear that pop 
for the Idea's. will be trying it again with the tape and water this weekend and hope to hear that pop
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danduvall
Well-known member
Right when you think you can't turn the puller any more is when it will pop... Be sure you have a good hand on the breaker bar and keep your hands away from the clutch!!! When it goes it'll sound like a gunshot!!!
I pulled my buddies clutch off of his '11 pro 8... he never pulled a clutch before. And that sucker POPPED hard when it came off , steve about crapped himself, then instantly got mad for 5sec because he thought I just broke his sled! Lol
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Thanks all for all the tips, got to pop off.cheers all have a good season.
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