clutch offset

[winter brew]

Checked our 12 and its fine.

 

[tard]

After a lot of messing around, I was able to get the Pto side to move rearward. Went from .095 to .031 using the Polaris offset tool. Put the SLP tool in the circular file as it does not do the job. To get .000 the motor will need to be pulled and mount holes adjusted. If belt life seems too short motor is getting pulled. I also added a thick and thin washer to the secondary to get the offset to zero out. Suprised to see clutch settings so far off from the factory.

 

[winter brew]

FWIW....our 12 junked a belt in 100 miles but this was a result of setup, not alignment.....went from pitching strings and hot as heck to barely warm ( not to mention much improved perf) with clutching and gearing.
So if you have issues, i wouldnt rush to blame alignment.

 

[T G]

good job tard hope it stays.have a friend just redrilled his,put 100 miles in the rocks said it stayed fine.i believe thats the rut i'm going.keep me informed.

 

[Trxstr]

250 miles on my sled haven't touched a single thing. Belt still looks good. Will check heat on clutches again this weekend in Sicamous!

 

[TRS]

I would take your SLP tool(20-191)back out of the circular file. If you get a chance to check 3 polaris tools you will find they are all different. Polaris tool bends very easy. Take notice on how thin the connection is from the part that goes up against the stationary and the main bar, don't drop it.

 

[Murph]

Checked my 2012. 0 miles.

Using Polaris tool, BIG gap at front of Secondary, BIGGER gap on rear of secondary. Added shims to backside to bring out secondary, had to add shims to front to retain float.

 

[Murph]

Found this in the clutching section relating to IQ chassis. The clutches and tool are the same. The information is relevant. This post by EricW helped me out a lot regarding the SPX tool and getting an accurate reading. I had found a lot of variances also.

Well here's my latest update. Seems that the Polaris SPX (LWT) tool is really finicky about how it seats in the primary fixed sheave and the the resulting clearances if not seated properly. What we found is that with the machined contact points on the tips of this tool you actually have to rotate the primary (clockwise worked best for me) a 1/4 turn or so to get it to seat properly. If you just put the tool in and wiggle it until it seems seated you will get the bigger gaps at the secondary that I posted above. If you hold some down and in pressure with one hand while you spin the primary gently you will feel it fall into its proper machined fit. I did this with 3 IQ's and all results were the same using the tool I borrowed from my dealer All three sled were within .010 of each other and well within the Polaris spec in the shop manual (Though this is still an issue with the .075" tool "Kick" as Kraven stated). I will keep working on this, but for now its time to run the sled, watch the belt, and see what happens.

Seating the tool and spinning the primary clockwise

With the tool properly seated I got just touching in the front of the secondary and a loose .006" at the rear measuring above the bolts on both clutches

If you dont have an air gap at the heel of the tool between it and the movable sheave you will get a bad reading. Should look like this

As much as possible try to make sure that the radial gap around the fixed sheave between it and the tool looks uniform like this

Still going to look at the jack shaft and maybe even try to McGiver a way to put an indicator somewhere on the motor that would leave a mark of how much torque travel and in what directions movement is happening under load.

Would one of those water operated Dyno's allow a guy to see accurate torque movement on the stand?

The saga continues. EW