clutch offset

[tard]

Well I am down to getting the offset correct on the large list of issues I have found with this sled. (1st time polaris owner, not impressed) Polaris manual says to loosen the 4 lower moter mounts and the 2 torx screws on the mag side (under the skid plate), move the motor, and re-tighten in sequence. Did this, and the secondary is still about .200 off. It looks like there is a 5th mount (brace) between the 2 lower mounts at the rear upper corner of the primary. Is this to be loosened up as well? Did not see anything in the manual under offset adjustment.

 

[rcbc]

which alignment tool are you using? I used slp's which is good for the tss 98 and 04'. I think they called for a .100" gap at the front of the secondary and .140" at the back. I checked my 2012 unit when it was
new and it had .110" and .250".(checked with sec. pulled outwards) The axial play on the jackshaft is approx.040". Local dealer said this should be fine and assured me I will get average belt life. they shimmed the sec. out .030" and told me to put 500 miles on and come back if I am unhappy.
over 200 miles on the sled now and belt looks good. clutches stay cool. I have no vents. riding in all conditions with snow depths deep enough to
pile snow up between seat and leg and just about force leg of running board.

 

[xc6rider]

I found almost exactly what rcbc has said above...

Gonna see how it does first, otherwise gonna have some work to get it right with the SLP tool.

 

[tard]

I am at .100 and at least .250 with the slp tool as well. I have the polaris tool on order, as trying to measure a gap is nuts. SLP does sell a tool that fits correct, but it was easier to order the Polaris one. I will bolt it all back up and wait for the real deal to show up and post results then.

 

[xc6rider]

I am at .100 and at least .250 with the slp tool as well. I have the polaris tool on order, as trying to measure a gap is nuts. SLP does sell a tool that fits correct, but it was easier to order the Polaris one. I will bolt it all back up and wait for the real deal to show up and post results then.

My exact plans as well. Measuring with the SLP is very annoying. Went to order a polaris tool the other day and the dealer wanted $190! I said that can't be correct as I swear I had seen them from $95-$110 ish.. Then they claimed to only be making (marking up) $45. Decided to pass needless to say.

But, I mainly want to see how the alignment compares between the two tools the way it sits...

 

[Aussie Niko]

Any know the part number for the polaris one?

 

[High Velocity]

Well I am down to getting the offset correct on the large list of issues I have found with this sled. (1st time polaris owner, not impressed).

Please let the rest of us know about this "large list of issues". My '12 Pro has zero issues so far.




Sent from my iPhone when I should be sledding.

 

[Demo250]

Please let the rest of us know about this "large list of issues". My '12 Pro has zero issues so far.




Sent from my iPhone when I should be sledding.

I was also gonna ask so I could check these areas on my sled. I thought I checked it pretty well and didn't find anything, but doesn't hurt to see what problem areas people have found.

 

[tard]

I was told that the OEM offset tool was around 65$. I am coming from Yamaha's where the only thing out of adjustment from the factory is toe out, on a regular basis. Alignment and toe out were the only adjustable items on the pro that were spot on. It is possible a good dealer would have fixed most of the other adjustments. I have been getting sleds in the crate for years, as I have little faith in my dealer and there are no other options in a reasonable driving distance. Not impressed should actually read frustrated, and all will be forgotten if the sled performs close to what I have read about it.

 

[T G]

Sorry Tard but if your not impressed now, wait tell your done checking! I've owned around 15 polaris' in the last 10-12 years; 1/2 or so new. I've been so depressed this time, haven't went to look at it for a couple weeks. Yes theres a 12 shop manuel they haven't even opened! I went to set belt clearance in my primary, took it apart with a stanard 18" bar; if you've took these apart your probably saying wow! I did it's so bad i'm sending it off to be balance. I know of three others the same way. I was waiting, but I've got one more to do. I wont be back for anther week or 2, primarys are so loose that dealer put one in revrese in his shop & spun it on crank (according to his service guy) I've called him on ours he said you've got warranty, ride it tell it blows??? I have a good friend thats a great tech he'd call with new findings. I'd go check & yes, more! I finally told him to quit calling. THATS HOW I FEEL $11,000.00+ later. By the way shop manual for 11 I believe said .060 but I'm not walking out to the shop. Going fishing instead!

 

[rmk727]

I don't believe any of this we set up 50 pro's this yr and checked everything as usual and yes they could have a shim in the primary removed but alighment has been spot on infact everything has been great and any dealer that sells a sled in the crate is stupid

 

[T G]

rmk727 you probably work (or own which ever) a real good shop,sounds like you guys do a complete setup.but this was not a crate sled that I have. if you'd like pm me i'll give ya the dealers name to call yourself, as he's a good guy not here to bash him. I believe this is polaris problem! As to if you believe it thats up to you, but I speak the truth. Just wondering do you set alignment up like rcbc's dealer says or like page 6.15 of service manual? it calls tite front of driven max .060 in rear. Again not trying be smart or start an pissing match just curious. thanks

 

[tard]

I agree on checking the primary torque, mine fell off while I was threading in the puller. Lucky for me, it didnt spin when it was loaded at the dealer.

 

[T G]

good job tard run a clean rag inside am over the crank end lr\et me know how oilie it should be metal to metal no oil (polaris spec) Oh check your jam nut@spider while it's off.

 

[tard]

Clutch was sent to Indy Dan, so its all good now. Without this site, it would have wrecked the first trip of the year. There was enough oil on the clutch/crank it dripped off after pulling the clutch.

 

[TRS]

From the 2012 Bible.

 

[tard]

I tried that, have the same pages opened up on the seat, motor does not want to move to the rear on the pto side or forward on the mag side, even with the careful help of a pry bar.

 

[xc6rider]

I tried that, have the same pages opened up on the seat, motor does not want to move to the rear on the pto side or forward on the mag side, even with the careful help of a pry bar.

And this, what you said, is what we all ran into with the Dragon. Many of us pulled the engine straps and actually ground out the mounting holes to get the engine rotation we needed. My clutches were WAY off on my '10 dragon and chewed up a belt in 40 miles.. And clutches were a long ways off from full shift, and low on RPM. After countless measurements, and trying to adjust everything, I finally ended up doing the grind work. After that, had full shift, RPM's came up around 200, and belt looked brand new after 500 miles.

That alignment was done on the SLP tool, and their specs.... I was happy with it, but now wanting to see how the OEM tool compares to the SLP as the engine sits from the factory.

 

[tard]

If I take off the oil tank and belt guard, I may be able to squeze off a pic of both. If I am pulling the motor to adjust the mount holes to get it right, I will do it for sure.

 

[TRS]

In regards to alignment on the 2006-10's 600-700-800's. If you move the .100" shim from the front MAG motor mount to the front PTO motor mount they will fall right into place.