clutch belts

[kylant]

quick question: what are the differences between the 1115 and 11216 polaris clutch belts?
I know the 16 is the newer one run on most sleds (850, 9R, boost)

the reason I ask: I just picked up a 650 146 and it runs the 1115 belt. Clutches are the same (except springs, weights) as on the 850.
i have several 16 belts and would like to just run the same belt to make things easier instead of having 2 different belts floating around.

thanks

 

[TRS]

The 115 was a softer compound. You should need more fly weight with a 1216

 

[madmax]

Tony, what belts are you recommending on the boost, 850 and 9R? Polaris vs. the TRS

 

[TRS]

Depends a lot on your center to center. If you have corrected center to center. I recommend a stock length belt(3211216/45R4553/45C4553)
If your center to center is not corrected(11.6”) as the 800’s and most 850’s and 9R’s. The 47C4572, 47R4572, 47R4572-26 work. These belts are .190” longer and .030” wider than stock belts. They make up for the 11.6” center to center.
What ever belt you decide to run, make sure your belt to sheave measurement is from .020-.030”. In the west our primary’s get warm and swell .020” pretty quick.
The P22 is the issue here. It’s belt to sheave measurement can be anywhere from 0-.120”. That cannot be adjusted easily. TJ has been working on getting that adjustment workable.
The P85 can be shimmed to spec. to allow the use of any belt width and/or flyweight profile.
The R belts material can get soft/sticky when ran hard on the Boost.
Proper break in and storage is paramount to belt life. Folding any belt is not recommended. C and R belts cannot be folded or back bent. That will break the carbon cords.
Where Polaris put our belt holder is not conducive to good belt life. The belts go under tremendous heat soaks every ride. When you take a 3211216 out of the holder it wants to keep that shape, that’s not good for a belt that turns thousands of rpm.
Just a thought, we surly don’t fold our radial tires for storage.

 

[JH@CM]

Turns out the old school belt holders that just pinched in the middle were pretty optimal, after all!

 

[TRS]

Turns out the old school belt holders that just pinched in the middle were pretty optimal, after all!

Yes sir.
Think about how much revenue Polaris generates in belt sales.

 

[BigAir]

Depends a lot on your center to center. If you have corrected center to center. I recommend a stock length belt(3211216/45R4553/45C4553)
If your center to center is not corrected(11.6”) as the 800’s and most 850’s and 9R’s. The 47C4572, 47R4572, 47R4572-26 work. These belts are .190” longer and .030” wider than stock belts. They make up for the 11.6” center to center.
What ever belt you decide to run, make sure your belt to sheave measurement is from .020-.030”. In the west our primary’s get warm and swell .020” pretty quick.
The P22 is the issue here. It’s belt to sheave measurement can be anywhere from 0-.120”. That cannot be adjusted easily. TJ has been working on getting that adjustment workable.
The P85 can be shimmed to spec. to allow the use of any belt width and/or flyweight profile.
The R belts material can get soft/sticky when ran hard on the Boost.
Proper break in and storage is paramount to belt life. Folding any belt is not recommended. C and R belts cannot be folded or back bent. That will break the carbon cords.
Where Polaris put our belt holder is not conducive to good belt life. The belts go under tremendous heat soaks every ride. When you take a 3211216 out of the holder it wants to keep that shape, that’s not good for a belt that turns thousands of rpm.
Just a thought, we surly don’t fold our radial tires for storage.

Thank you so much, Tony, for posting all that. That answers the last few questions that I hadn't gotten out of our PM conversation and I finally have a good understanding of which belts I should be running. Thanks again!

 

[TRS]

For those wanting to get their Patriot motors in proper alignment and center to center, we offer adjustable motor mounts.

 

[kylant]

what is the difference between the R and C gates belts?

 

[BeartoothBaron]

They're quite a bit different: different rubber compounds and cord material. The C uses carbon cords and neoprene rubber, vs kevlar and EPDM rubber for the R. The R was designed to handle more heat and power: Gates specifically recommends the R over the C for >800 and/or turbo applications. I've mostly run the C12 for quite a while, and been pretty happy with them. The C should be a little smoother and easier on the clutches - up to the point you overpower or overheat it. What's too much could be hard to predict; a 9R at 10k' is less powerful than an 800 at 5k,' plus there's the question of how optimized the clutching is, riding style, typical riding conditions, yada yada yada. I think the C12 would be the pick for the 650; maybe not ideal for an 850 in some cases, but plenty of people have run them successfully.

 

[neverenoughsnow]

Depends a lot on your center to center. If you have corrected center to center. I recommend a stock length belt(3211216/45R4553/45C4553)
If your center to center is not corrected(11.6”) as the 800’s and most 850’s and 9R’s. The 47C4572, 47R4572, 47R4572-26 work. These belts are .190” longer and .030” wider than stock belts. They make up for the 11.6” center to center.
What ever belt you decide to run, make sure your belt to sheave measurement is from .020-.030”. In the west our primary’s get warm and swell .020” pretty quick.
The P22 is the issue here. It’s belt to sheave measurement can be anywhere from 0-.120”. That cannot be adjusted easily. TJ has been working on getting that adjustment workable.
The P85 can be shimmed to spec. to allow the use of any belt width and/or flyweight profile.
The R belts material can get soft/sticky when ran hard on the Boost.
Proper break in and storage is paramount to belt life. Folding any belt is not recommended. C and R belts cannot be folded or back bent. That will break the carbon cords.
Where Polaris put our belt holder is not conducive to good belt life. The belts go under tremendous heat soaks every ride. When you take a 3211216 out of the holder it wants to keep that shape, that’s not good for a belt that turns thousands of rpm.
Just a thought, we surly don’t fold our radial tires for storage.

Thank you, for all the info. It helps alot of us out. My problem..... 2023 9R with Indy Dan p-85 and Team Tied, running the 45R4553. So far they seem to be not riding up high enough in secondary. They are also getting so flexible after breakin that the clutches slam, like the belt slaps. Cant adjust up secondary any tighter . With belt at top of secondary ,I bet I have 2-3" of deflection. Also what does the 26 mean on the 47R4572-26?

 

[TRS]

The 26 is the belt side angle. 13* each side.
The 47 belts are .190” longer than the 45 belts.
What is your belt to sheave measurement?
Have you checked center to center as well?
With that much deflection and being out of secondary adjustment, something isn’t right.
Sounds like you are building a lot of belt heat as well.

 

[AdrenalineAddict]

I have been running the 45R4553 successfully on my NA 850 Matryx. I had to make the switch because in northern Nevada 40 degree riding days are quite common and the under hood heat simply gets out of control. Once the sheaves turn brown running the 216, performance suffers big time. The R belts handle the heat a lot better and belt life is huge. Over the course of the last 3 seasons I have logged approximately 6,600 mountain climbing miles on 2 belts. I put about 3,000 miles on the belt I’m currently running and have no intentions of changing it before season. The only requirement to running the R is occasional sheave scuffing.

 

[madmax]

IMO, just because you can get 3,000 miles out of a belt, doesn’t mean you should. The belt will slowly wear and get narrower causing inefficient clutching and performance will suffer. Once I get a belt to 800-1,000 miles it goes into the spare belt like and a new belt goes on.