clutch alignment and float

[Kraven]

Here is a sled that started out over 11.6" center to center and .110" of lead in. With all the motors I have checked, only one was within Polaris spec.
Started doing this with the delivery of the 2011 Pro. Thousands of miles without any bolt or strap failures to date.
This is a simple explanation of the process.
Booth straps were drilled out to .500". Straps are then mounted back on the engine loosely, followed by mounting the motor back into the chassis. Torque up the motor mount bolts and torque arm. This will put the motor straps in a neutral position, zero directional load. Adjust the motor to your spec. and tighten the motor strap bolts while in the chassis. I built a wrench to help facilitate the tightening, but standard will work. The recoil removed helps access the mag side. Recheck your measurements. Now you are ready to remove the socket head cap screws, lift the motor and torque the motor strap bolts. Bolt the motor back in and replace all the removed parts and you should be ready to ride.
When this sled was finished it was 11.516" center to center and .08" lead in. I like any where from 0.00"-.030" lead in.

Excellent info^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

My 2013 PRO-R 800, C/C short by 1/8", and a good amount of engine "twist"

My bud's 2012 600, C/C O.K., a good amount of engine twist , again

 

[LoudHandle]

ttt for the season post #45 is the meat and potatoes info. other good info scattered thru out post once engine placement is founded.

 

[Spaarky]

Bump... for me to keep track of.

 

[FrankTheTank]

Thanks TRS for great info, just fixed a sled with 0,10" lead in and 11.6" center to center.
Got it to 0,030" lead in and 11,5 cc.

What do you think of extra torque stops on the ProRides?
Do we need them?
What type is best?

 

[icr]

Which tool works best for electric start models?

 

[LoudHandle]

TTT for the coming season, This thread should be added to the tech post if it hasn't already. Thanks!

 

[Spaarky]

me2

 

[mountainhorse]

TTT for Travis.


.

 

[bigchevrolet]

To bad there isn't a clutch tool out there like the osp turbo cat one for the pros or for many models....it takes all the guess out of any of this..slap it on and of it doesn't fit correctly change something...done deal..they even come with shims to allow for twist to whatever thickness you desire. I know it's a cat tool but what a high quality piece. Now that I'm rambling I'm wonder how close the sheaves are in size design between cat and poo?

 

[Spaarky]

Tony... Which tool is the best and which SLP tool should a person be using? I thought I had the right one. Now speed racer has me all confused and wondering if I used the right one. I need to shut my phone off.

 

[TRS]

Tony... Which tool is the best and which SLP tool should a person be using? I thought I had the right one. Now speed racer has me all confused and wondering if I used the right one. I need to shut my phone off.

I use the SLP 20-191. It is designed for the old TSS-98 but I use it for the TSS-04. You will need to have .100" clearance between the bar and front of secondary.

 

[Spaarky]

Sawweeeeetttt. That's what I have and I did it correctly. Locked, cocked and half ready to rock.

 

[mountainhorse]

TTT

 

[bryceraisanen]

Bump just so it saves the post n I can find it

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