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Cleaning exhaust valves, how to

Is there a way to test the seal while its on the sled?
like with a vacume tester? I tried both mine and they wont pull any vacume, is this normal?

if they are anything like 'doos -they work off the pressure of the exhaust gases (greater than atmospheric -@ 14.7 psi at sea level....etc) not a vacuum. i can't remember the test procedure or pressure though:D:beer; supposed to fully open at something like 5-6 psi i think depends on spring rate and preload specs for your machine & application,elevation... eg.-piped sleds usually put softer rate springs to open faster,to work with the clutching etc.sometimes you can get the guilotines to clean up pretty easy with wd-40 and a stiff bristle nail brush or light polish with wd/light oil and REALLY FINE grit sand cloth (like a machinist would use to polish automotive cranks) and a "tooth brush" for the slide etc.as always it's best to start mild and work "up" with any procedure on machined parts...ya can always go to the next level- but when they're ****ed...that's it -THEY'RE ****ED!
 
everything ive seen is on target except the Polaris blue with no trouble Ive notseen these results before, IMO the valves would be like snot after only a few miles on 100% pol blue, I use blue marble but not totally sold on it, not saying it's not good just seems the valves get snotty after 1000 miles or so.
 
Wyo using a ss and the other alum? they are different in weight so reasoning would say that they will open differently with the same springs.
 
everything ive seen is on target except the Polaris blue with no trouble Ive notseen these results before, IMO the valves would be like snot after only a few miles on 100% pol blue, I use blue marble but not totally sold on it, not saying it's not good just seems the valves get snotty after 1000 miles or so.

The recommended cleaning interval from the Polaris Factory is every 1000 miles...

As easy as the small block engine are to remove the VES valves, 2 bolts per valve... and how much it can affect the performance... I clean mine every 500 miles or so.

If you rub a film of synt grease on the gaskets.. they will come off without sticking and needing another. I keep 2 sets of VES base gaskets on hand just in case..

I have used Amsoil interceptor, VES Gold, XPS full synth and Redine... I've experienced everything from gummed up valves to good at less than 1000 miles..

I run Castrol std 2 stroke, Injex, and Pol Blue without any issues... Plus the cost differnce is HUGE... I spend less with the std oil and that is if I still factor in the cost of my labor time.... Plus I KNOW that they are clean and working properly.

Every 1500 miles... I remove the Y-pipe, stuff some towels in there and clean the VES slot thoroughly...

Not one VES related issue to date.
 
Some of the valves are Titanium, some Stainless.

The ECU and EV solenoid valve controls the opening of the VES valve on the polaris..
 
I have an older one so there not controlled by the ecu not all are done that way.He did not state which sled he had just guessing on my part.
 
MH your correct on the intervals so I'm trying it on my new sled (POL blue) just to see; the cost dif is so that I can buy the wife a few goodies with the savings
 
VES valve cleaning

The best product I found to clean the exhaust valve is carburetor cleaner made by gunk. It is intended for soaking carburetors to clean them when rebuilding them. Strip the bellows off of the valve. Soak the valves for the day and then just rinse them off in the varsol tank. No scrubbing or scrapping. They come out just like new and no scratches for the carbon to adhere to for next time.
 
Thanks, MH Great info.....I have done mine several times over the years...I have never replaced the gaskets. There is no oil leakage.....and they are not torn. Very careful removing...what's the advantage to using only new gaskets??
 
Also...

Just like clutch springs, the exhaust valve springs fatigue over time. To keep optimum tune... replace them every 2000 miles or 2 yrs whichever is first.

Use only new gaskets BECAUSE ... compression of the old one and small tears or oil soaking can cause leaks that can lead to poor performance and reliability problems.

For the cost of the gaskets... why risk it... buy 6 so you will have them on hand for future cleanings.

Happy riding
 
I switched over to polaris blue oil in my 09 D8, mid last winter, and have run it for about 250 miles this year again. I have pulled my valves many times checking my pistons, and they are still clean. As good as no build up what so ever. Seems to run a lot cleaner than my 700 VES ever did on the polaris gold oil. Have reused my gaskets everytime, they come off with out sticking no problem, so I say "if it's not broke don't fix it".
 
Great info, but does any one here besides me go to the length of cleaning out the air transfer ports in the cylinder ports carefully with a q-tip (pausing to dig a cotton q-tip plug out of the tiny orifice every couple of minutes):eek:

I also use q-tips to swab out the slots that the valve plates ride in, it gets factory clean when I'm done, but is this overkill?:confused:

And while I'm at it, I ask if anyone here has disabled the VES solenoid on the 800CFI like I have read about in other posts? Where they disconnect the solenoid from the rubber hos at the tee and then plug the tee off? Supposed to help low end acceleration?
 
Great info, but does any one here besides me go to the length of cleaning out the air transfer ports in the cylinder ports carefully with a q-tip (pausing to dig a cotton q-tip plug out of the tiny orifice every couple of minutes):eek:

I also use q-tips to swab out the slots that the valve plates ride in, it gets factory clean when I'm done, but is this overkill?:confused:

And while I'm at it, I ask if anyone here has disabled the VES solenoid on the 800CFI like I have read about in other posts? Where they disconnect the solenoid from the rubber hos at the tee and then plug the tee off? Supposed to help low end acceleration?

Its not overkill at all. Sometimes that port in the engine will get carboned up so bad that you need to use a clothes hanger to get through there. Just make sure your piston is in bottom postion. On the other hand, you can get a little carbon inside your combustion chamber doing it this way. When that port is clogged your exhaust valves will not run correctly and you will lose RPMs.
 
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