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Checking Track Tension

How are you guys checking your track tension? According to my service manual I need to lift the sled and place a 10lb weight on the track, I understand that part. What I don't get is that the manual says not to lift the sled by the bumper and to use a sled lift instead.

What is a sled lift, and why would it change the track sag by lifting from a different spot?
 
I just use a tie down strap in the holes at the end of the boards that go up at an angle and lift from there, I dont ever use the ten pounds after the first initial stretch I just tighten it enough that it doesnt rachet anymore
 
The reason they dont want you to lift it by the bumper is that it may break the bumper, no joke and not trying to poke fun, just the truth.
 
I have always either put it on a lift or hung it by the bumper. I cant remember the distance but you hang the 10lb weight a specific distance from the rear wheels and measure the deflection on the track. After your initial stretch there is very little adjustment needed.
 
The bumper is not designed to hold the weight of your sled so Polaris will not recommend it. You can use the bumper, but do so at your own risk. It should work fine, but don't get crazy and run your sled to check the track tension, you'll risk launching it. The foot rail bars where they attach to the rear of the tunnel works well also.

Your track will stretch quite a bit, check it often to keep it from ratcheting and ruining the nubs on the inside of your track.
 
Thanks for the replies. I have been lifting the sled from the bumper for other stuff and it seems to hold up fine. I think I will just do that for my track tension as well. I just wanted to make sure that lifting from the rear is not putting some kind of load on the suspension. I don't see how that is physically possible, but that is what the service manual is trying to tell me.
 
I lift mine from the bumper, and even store it over the summer with a bumper jack. However, I did make a jack that lifts at the outside edges of the bumper where the tube goes into the aluminum. I took a 60's Chrysler bumper jack I had laying around and some scrap square tubing I had and welded this up:

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I don't know what sled you have but if it has a chain, check that too! They do stretch.
 
Even if your sled isn't ratcheting a loose track will cause trenching and the sled won't get on top of the snow as well. It affects the attack angle of the track.
 
Loose tracks perform poorly compared to properly tensioned tracks.

Rolling resistance pulling the track by hand while the sled is suspended has NOTHING to rolliing resistance on the ground on the power....contrary to some views of this topic.
 
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My Pro was making a terrible mechanical noise last year when I was braking going down hill. Something I had never heard before on any sled. Finally figured out it was just the track ratcheting. I thought I had the track plenty tight and I for sure figured that the engine under full power climbing in deep snow would cause it to ratchet way sooner than just going down hill on the brakes. I had to tighten the track tighter than the 10lb weight spec to get it to stop.
 
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