Check your quick drive bolts
- Thread starter goridedoo
- Start date
I will check ours, would you know the torque or is it just G-N-T!
Do they come with thread locker from the factory? I'd definitely add some, if so. I also swapped to ARP hardware for the drive sprockets on my old sled, and I remember some guys doing that on the Pro. Couldn't hurt here...
They do. They’ve also resolved broken bolt issues. I used to use loctite when reinstalling… quit doing it a few years ago, haven’t had any issues. I just torque from 45-50. I’m thinking they didn’t get torqued at the factory.
Like you say, loctite can’t hurt.
Yeah, I do wonder if the thread locker (which Polaris uses on a lot of bolts you wouldn't think need it) is to compensate for the all-too-strong possibility that some bolts don't get torqued correctly. It's probably not necessary on something like a driveshaft that doesn't see as much vibration as engine fasteners, but nothing wrong with it. I do remember there being some changes on the QD bolts not long after it came out, so probably not a big priority to replace those; maybe another "couldn't hurt." You could probably put more torque on the ARP bolt, although I'm not sure if the washer Polaris uses is rigid or a spring washer; if it's the latter, cranking it down would defeat the purpose.
I’m no expert… but…
When using a lubricant or thread locker (acts as lube when wet) when one is not called for in the instructions then you need to use a wet torque which is typically 20% (some say as high as 40%) less than dry.
Essentially, the lubrication allows the hardware to apply the desired clamping force at a lower torque value. Using a dry torque number in a wet application will overstretch and possibly compromise the hardware.
If you “retorque” after thread-locker has cured and the hardware moves then you just broke the bond and you’ll have to start over if you need or desire the thread-locker.
one can use a visual aid such as tamper paint to see if the hardware has loosened.
When using a lubricant or thread locker (acts as lube when wet) when one is not called for in the instructions then you need to use a wet torque which is typically 20% (some say as high as 40%) less than dry.
Essentially, the lubrication allows the hardware to apply the desired clamping force at a lower torque value. Using a dry torque number in a wet application will overstretch and possibly compromise the hardware.
If you “retorque” after thread-locker has cured and the hardware moves then you just broke the bond and you’ll have to start over if you need or desire the thread-locker.
one can use a visual aid such as tamper paint to see if the hardware has loosened.
decided to look my sled over now that it’s over 300km and I discovered the lower qd bolt was finger tight. Removed both qd bolts and retorqued with a small amount of loctite. Top qd bolt looks like it has something on the threads while the bottom bolt only has a little bit of oil. 
