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Changing track on 09 Dragon 800

I'm trying to change the track on my 2009 Dragon 800. I have the secondary clutch off, the speedo housing off and I'm lost at this point. I read a forum that said it should come right out of the chaincase side but it's not. Do I have to open the chain case too? Help!!

Charlie in Boise
 
Open thr chaincase, you will have to remove the chain and lower gear in order to remove the driveshaft
 
Pay attention to the number of washers on the inside of your secondary clutch.
Grease the jackshaft and speedo while your in there, but don't get any on your clutch.
Drain chaincase oil - careful not to strip out the plug.
Should only be 8-10 ft/lbs of torque on the plug, don't get nuts with it.
Remove can
Remove chaincase cover
Remove bottom gear, I slide both top and bottom gears off with chain.
Good time to replace the gaskets, bearings, chain, seals etc...
Remove skid, I hang the sled with a come-a-long from the rafters.
Drive shaft should be loose after speedo bracket and bottom gear.
Having an extra hand is very helpful for the skid and pushing the track up to gain clearance for drive shaft removal.
If there isn't enough clearance side to side you may need/want to unbolt the brake/chaincase.
Chaincase holds 11oz, sparkplug wrench works the best for the filler plug. Small funnel with a hose or a lube pump is to refill.

Watch the seal around the chaincase cover, you don't want leaks.

Good luck.
 
Pay attention to the number of washers on the inside of your secondary clutch.
Grease the jackshaft and speedo while your in there, but don't get any on your clutch.
Drain chaincase oil - careful not to strip out the plug.
Should only be 8-10 ft/lbs of torque on the plug, don't get nuts with it.
Remove can
Remove chaincase cover
Remove bottom gear, I slide both top and bottom gears off with chain.
Good time to replace the gaskets, bearings, chain, seals etc...
Remove skid, I hang the sled with a come-a-long from the rafters.
Drive shaft should be loose after speedo bracket and bottom gear.
Having an extra hand is very helpful for the skid and pushing the track up to gain clearance for drive shaft removal.
If there isn't enough clearance side to side you may need/want to unbolt the brake/chaincase.
Chaincase holds 11oz, sparkplug wrench works the best for the filler plug. Small funnel with a hose or a lube pump is to refill.

Watch the seal around the chaincase cover, you don't want leaks.

Good luck.

Everything he said except last the sled on it's side. Makes life much easier! :D

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2
 
With the rear of the sled raised, you can unhook the rear springs and kick them outside of the track and rotate them to the back taking tension off of them. I usually have a ratchet strap to pull the front arm down towards the rails too. I use 3/8" metal rods through the suspension mounting holes to hold the track up inside the tunnel when removing the skid, plus 1x2's in the bottom of the track to lift the skid up over the drive nubs.

I don't have any pictures of mine in action, but annotated this SnoWester pic a while ago for another thread.
 
Last edited:
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