changing race gas to pump gas

[WKR]

i have a bd race gas kit new and want to run a low boost setup on my m7. i was thinking stock fuel pump, one set of injectors no more than 8lbs, this would get rid of the intercooler, aux fuel pump, and all the messy wiring capacitor and regulator, any thoughts on whether this work work very well, or should i just install everything and turn down the boost. i have ran big boost on m7s before, so i have already scratched that itch. just want 200hp with reliability to run over buddies 880s

 

[RACINSTATION]

PM me your info and I have a good setup for you.

 

[hatchers]

consider an actuator that has the adustabilty of 5-20lbs of boost....they are big as hell and hard to fit, but its the best way to go, the bracket that mounts to the compressor can be a pain and the linkage can also be hard to align up somewhat close.

Fun Fact: you will get a boost leak if you forget to tighen the charge tube clamps.....dont ask

 

[matt159]

consider an actuator that has the adustabilty of 5-20lbs of boost....they are big as hell and hard to fit, but its the best way to go, the bracket that mounts to the compressor can be a pain and the linkage can also be hard to align up somewhat close.

Have a picture of that? Do you still adjust it with the boost T?

 

[hatchers]

Have a picture of that? Do you still adjust it with the boost T?

no picture, they all do the same thing, some big and some small......yes you still adjust a boost tee regulator thingy

 

[hughesfoundation]

Have a picture of that? Do you still adjust it with the boost T?

I just got one from BD, you can see picture on their site in the instruction section. You can still use the boost adj, or remove it. If you leave it on you will be able to increase your boost range by maybe 6lbs. I wanted to be able to go from race to pump if needed. I am considering removing the intercooler but keeping the second set of injectors. I do see some problems with trying to clutch for the wide range but think I will set it up for 10lbs. most of the time and reclutch if I have several days of pump gas trail rides. Has anyone out there played with a dual setup?

 

[matt159]

I only have 9 days of experience riding my RGT, but at this point I would not want to get rid of my intercooler & BOV. Charge temps have stayed cool between 90 & 130 degrees even after multiple 1 minute wide open pulls thanks to the little electric fan. From threads I read here, non-intercooled temps are 180-200 at 11-12 lbs. That increase in charge temp is like dropping 2 psi due to air expansion. I think the intercooler weight is easily worth 2 psi (~20hp) and I don't notice any significant lag.

 

[Mod800R]

on my race gas twisted m8 all i did was install a low boost acuator, adjusted the boost to 6psi @1500-2000ft, and adjusted my boost fuel on the attitude box...

kept the high flow pump,extra 2 injectors, and everthing else in the race kit...

only downfall i can see is it would be harder on fuel than a pump gas only kit?>anyone?

 

[Hopeitsnowzalot]

Hi to Lo

You'll need a controller, of course, to handle the 2 inj. vs. 4, maybe you can trade it in, depending on whose you have, or reprogram?.
You wont be able to run 4 injectors with the stock pump. Been there.

No need for a low psi actuator. Thanks Gus. Take the boost ref. from the pipe side. Since the pressure is lower by a few lbs, it cheats the actuator. (10-7lbs, results will vary). Response is quicker, too. (see attachment). I also put in a couple of petcocks so I can switch from low boost (inducer pipe side) to high boost/normal (exducer/charge side). I used a fairly long fitting and silicon hose, make sure to clamp it tight (in the pict theres a tiewrap holding it on for initial bench test).

 

[glassman]

I have the BD race kit but i have both a low boost (up to 8 lbs) and a high boost (8 - 14) actuator, and depending on the fuel i am running i bolt on the correct actuator and ride. No other adjustments needed. I have no intercooler and only run up to 10 lbs with 50/50 av and pump. My air temps do get up to about 160 or so though, but at 8 lbs they only see about 120. My opinion, put it all in and you have the best of both worlds.

 

[hatchers]

You'll need a controller, of course, to handle the 2 inj. vs. 4, maybe you can trade it in, depending on whose you have, or reprogram?

incorrect

 

[WKR]

put it all in

ok i put it all in, i am running a high flow intank fuel pump. i wired it by itself to the accesary plug using the capacitor and rectifier. i will run the bd box/afr/oil pump off the stock fuel pump power source. i have no headlights or tail light, i am running stock gauge cluster. comments on wether this will work and do i still need to run the resistor for the headlight delete or can i scrap that because of the large fuel pump and extra gauges? thanks for all the tips thus far.

 

[Hopeitsnowzalot]

no ground

ok i put it all in, i am running a high flow intank fuel pump. i wired it by itself to the accesary plug using the capacitor and rectifier. i will run the bd box/afr/oil pump off the stock fuel pump power source. i have no headlights or tail light, i am running stock gauge cluster. comments on wether this will work and do i still need to run the resistor for the headlight delete or can i scrap that because of the large fuel pump and extra gauges? thanks for all the tips thus far.

ONE THING HERE is that a lot of these guys are talking about M8s, and the older M7s are a different beast.

Make sure there is NO CHASSIS GROUND on that rectifier!

Unplug your lights. (I have enough juice to run the cat gauges with the lightbulbs unplugged). You may have to unplug your tail-light and your gauge cluster if you are using an electric oil pump. I use a mechanical.

also, the turbosmart in-tank FPR is the way to go! (less strain on pump=lower amp draw).