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sled pilot
New member
Is there a tool or technique to changing belts with this set up? I know that you can push against the sheave and rotate it backwards but it is difficult. Any one know a better way Thanks in advance Thomas
Changing belt on turbo nytro with shockwave helix
- Thread starter sled pilot
- Start date
Its a S L U T!!!! Best is a freind who just ate his wheaties....one push on the helix and turn while the other pulls up on the belt!!!!
Get the belt over the top of the secondary as much as possible. Grab the break with your right hand, push the helix with your left foot while holding the break and it will open up enough for you to push the belt down the sheeves with your left hand. Bam! Done it a hundread times by my self, it's super easy this way.
No kidding, put down your purse sally!
Use your foot and push aginst the helix, in and back toward the right side footwell (diaganal) it will open right up!
No kidding, put down your purse sally!QUOTE]
i think you deserve an award...that was some funny crap.
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sled pilot
New member
12mm socket
WakeGD how can a 12mm socket give a mechanical advantage? I am used to skidoo's system that utilizes a tool to separate the sheaves. I was able to muscle the sheaves apart ... not exactly easy. As for big boy pants and sally purse you are the reason why some people will not post... try to remember no such thing as a stupid question....just stupid responses.
WakeGD how can a 12mm socket give a mechanical advantage? I am used to skidoo's system that utilizes a tool to separate the sheaves. I was able to muscle the sheaves apart ... not exactly easy. As for big boy pants and sally purse you are the reason why some people will not post... try to remember no such thing as a stupid question....just stupid responses.
oh man.. gues we cant have any fun around here.
I think he was getting at taking the wrench/socket/whatever and putting it on one of the helix bolts and twisting a little to give you a little more leverage on twisting the helix in to help open the sheaves a little... seems like it would work to me. or I might be way off base. it may look goofy, but if you can get a boot rammed in the lower part of the belt that is hanging , push down on that a little while you twist the sheaves, it helps pull it down making it loser. a little time and yuo learn some tricks, I came of a doo as well and it took me a while at first, now they just about pop off for me.
and lighten up.. its all in fun... the internet dont bite.
Just twist (tighten and push on the socket) one of the helix 12mm nuts and the secondary will open up. Then pull the belt out. It is very easy. I have never tried the boot method, I'm sure it works great too.
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sled pilot
New member
Boot and the 12mm
Thanks guys I do appreciate the help. New to the machine and blew three belts the first day. We rode in over 100cm of fresh. Not enough venting and no heat wrap on the turbo exhaust. That turbo throws a ton of heat. Pretty much liquified the belts. It was fun while they lasted.
Thanks guys I do appreciate the help. New to the machine and blew three belts the first day. We rode in over 100cm of fresh. Not enough venting and no heat wrap on the turbo exhaust. That turbo throws a ton of heat. Pretty much liquified the belts. It was fun while they lasted.
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I doubt it was the turbo heat that was your belt issue. We found that plugging the vents in the side plastic clutch side helps dramatically with belt life, especially in powder. With the tiny powder particles of h20 they get through those vents and into the clutches causing belt slip which creates 10 times more heat then what is under your hood initally. Belt slip is a belt killer.
Also where you load your supertips has a lot to do with belt life. Make sure you evenly distribute your weight and make sure you have plenty on the tip as this is what gives you belt squeeze on top end where you are prone to slip your belt.
Also where you load your supertips has a lot to do with belt life. Make sure you evenly distribute your weight and make sure you have plenty on the tip as this is what gives you belt squeeze on top end where you are prone to slip your belt.
a healthy dose of header wrap, 3-4 layers thick.. the coating for it.. and vents around the turbo help a lot to just keep overal temps down. but I was having issues with slippage and holy crap.. watch belts disappear!!!
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sled pilot
New member
Got it sorted out... Shock wave clutch tool!
Not having the brute strength that some have on this thread. I devised a simple yet effective tool that spreads the sheaves on the secondary with the shockwave helix. A long bolt with a washer that is the same thread as the retention bolt works great. You can easily do this with or without a sally purse or big boy pants. Lastly big thank you to Zebiraross with the post on water being the cause of blown belts... Tightened up the enviromental seals and no belt issues all day...Thanks for the help.
Not having the brute strength that some have on this thread. I devised a simple yet effective tool that spreads the sheaves on the secondary with the shockwave helix. A long bolt with a washer that is the same thread as the retention bolt works great. You can easily do this with or without a sally purse or big boy pants. Lastly big thank you to Zebiraross with the post on water being the cause of blown belts... Tightened up the enviromental seals and no belt issues all day...Thanks for the help.
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Lets see some pics with the tool on the sled in action....Its a b!tch to do it I know...anything easier would be great.
No problem. Glad your getting it worked out.
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PASSSED YOU
New member
easiest way is to have boost cruisin homskillet lift up your sled and then you pull up on the belt done or just pull and let your track roll if possible
C
canucklehead
Well-known member
Yeah let's see some pics, I'm tired of changing belts for thistle.
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