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Chain tension...? Track slipping

so it sounds like my track is slipping when im in High gear Climbing..... is this do to my chain tension? if so how much do i tighten the bolt?

or does it have to do with the track. I have a timber sled rear suspension kit. could it have anything to do with this new mod?

07 REV.
 
Turn in the chain tension adjuster knob finger tight - then back off 1/4 turn (or whatever is closest to get the pin in).

You'll ratchet a track if you don't have enough front track shock pressure - some of these aftermarket suspension guys like to run little to no preload on that front track shock = FAIL in wet heavy snow. Crank up the tension some or pull in the straps one notch. Track should only have 1/2-1" free hang at center even with extroverts (don't believe the hype about loose tracks).

Have FUN!

G MAN
 
Turn in the chain tension adjuster knob finger tight - then back off 1/4 turn (or whatever is closest to get the pin in).

You'll ratchet a track if you don't have enough front track shock pressure - some of these aftermarket suspension guys like to run little to no preload on that front track shock = FAIL in wet heavy snow. Crank up the tension some or pull in the straps one notch. Track should only have 1/2-1" free hang at center even with extroverts (don't believe the hype about loose tracks).

Have FUN!

G MAN

Now a disclaimer goes out simply because I have NO experience with the Timber rear skid and they might suggest running them string tight.....if so.....just another reason for me to keep my money in my pocket.(more than likely antoher rear skid)

I agree with most but.......1/2 to 1" droop only? Holy Fawk how often do you go through sliders man? I run up to 3" on my Mod with a Mtn Master Skid and she doesn't ratchet, nor does she hit the top of my tunnel, nor does it wear out the front of my sliders.....and rolls with one hand pushing on the seat and with ZERO idler wheels in the skid(only my 2 wheel kit out back)......and your telling peeps to run them string tight? Excuse me but either you replace hifax's all the time, run a dozen idler wheels, or just plain giving out bad information.

No extroverts, short lugs, old-school rides with little suspension and your on the money.......but I'm afraid I'm gonna hafta call you out on the thought of running a track string tight on anything within the last 5 years.

Believe it or not but a looser track(without ratcheting) has proven gains on track dyno's versus banjo tight like your advice.....shakin my head*

Again I must re-iterate(so nobody gets their pants in a twist) if Timber recommends having the track that tight....then so be it....ALL of my stockers with stock skids run between 2 - 2-1/2" clearance from the rails to the track....never once ratchet. All of my demo's from 2006-2010 Summits were run like this. Never had rubber on the tunnel, never had excessive slider wear(wear the track contacts the front of the sliders) And always gained trackspeed.....sorry if they do not match your preferences but my real world results(in BC - maybe Oregon snow is just that much different?) are all I need to keep doing what I'm doing.
 
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so it sounds like my track is slipping when im in High gear Climbing..... is this do to my chain tension? if so how much do i tighten the bolt?

or does it have to do with the track. I have a timber sled rear suspension kit. could it have anything to do with this new mod?

07 REV.

And it has nothing to do with your chain tension if your track is ratcheting. Had a guy with a CMX belt drive think the same thing......blown belt and driveshaft bearings resulted in a $1000 repair bill. Sucks when you need a machine shop in house and have to contract it out!

I do agree with gman on the fact that your front shock in the timber prob has little to no tension on it.
 
Not a chance and I've spoken with the engineers at Camoploast about this too. When a track spins up to speed it will distort badly and detract from top speed ESPECIALLY with only two extrovert drivers and a 2 wheel kit for the rear. I get over 1500 miles per set of hyfax with only the very front set of idlers. You are dead wrong Reeb; you've just bought into the myth that a loose track is faster because of static friction. Why do you think the Mach Z runs 4 introvert drivers and a tight track??? Because it IS faster!

Another myth is that more sets of idlers = faster sled/less resistance. Ask Camoplast about that one too. The more idlers the more the track distorts = slower top speeds. You do need to get some pressure off the leading edge of the hyfax to prevent melting on anything over 80-90ish mph (and that includes whether you have scratchers or not) thus the need for front set only. Polaris did it right this year with their Pro RMK - comes with under 1/2" free hang, internal drivers and only front set of idlers. Someone has been listening to Camoplast!!! The Pro is hardly "old school"!

Have FUN!

G MAN

PS - I know it sounds crazy but ask the track tension question over in the Pro RMK Section. I've heard of no premature slider failures over there and the spec states 3/8-1/2" slack measured 16" in front of the rear idlers WITH a 10 lb weight hanging from the track!!! Now that is even tighter than what I'm comfy with but that's the spec straight from the owner's manual!

PSS - Personally I think we're going to see extrovert drivers go the way of ported tracks... seemed like a good idea!
 
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And like RKT has managed to show us time and time again..........engineers are dead wrong sometimes.....a notepad might show you the equation for the answer, but real world shows us a different path......and there's no hype I've boughten into....I have a track dyno to verify my results.....and consistent(as we can get) runs to show differences.

I don't run any idlers at all(on my Rev I do run two in the front because of rail profile)....and get very similar miles as you. About 2 seasons average out to 3000-3500km for me and a set of sliders.

I'm sorry but are we talking speed here? Hate to be rude but I could give 2 sh*ts about 80-90mph....my sled is geared for under 80mph because in the mountains - where I ride....I barely see over 60mph when climbing(My Rev).....and can't go more than 60mph when hammered down on a 3-4ft moguled trail without being WAY out of control.....again....when did we start talking speed?

Sorry but a very simple test I've done with my sleds are as follows: All used the same force and body weight to start the push....varies after the sled started rolling. (two hands on the rear bumper and most of my body weight behind it)

New track no holes, 1" sag......sled skids along concrete floor for 3-4ft before slowly rotating as I gather speed. Slow down the force of me pushing and track starts skidding along the floor again.

Track is now broken in - tighten track tension back up to 1" sag and try rolling sled across same concrete floor. 3-4ft before it starts to rotate again, onylt his time it keeps turning even if I reduce pressure(just don't stop)

Track with 3" sag and it DOESN'T skid at all.....just rolls

Track with 3" sag and ported 2-3-2 pattern and single handed the track DOESN'T skid, and effort to roll is dramatically reduced. Infact I have pushed my sled with one hand while walking to the side of it while I was pushing it 30ft across the shop floor.

All of this has been done before, but the last time was about 3 months ago when I put a new Camo Extreme 156 on my Mod.

Engineers have degrees and the smarts.....but nobody is gonna tell me my "redneck" testing methods prove anything other than what I saw for myself.

Bunch of smart fellas at Camoplast no doubt - but they need a major re-do in the marketing dept with the whole delaminating issue and warranty being voided on 80% of all failures in the past few years. I don;t blame the engineers for that, they made a track like they were supposed to(processes aside) just nobody in marketing felt the need to tell the consumers what everyone inside Camoplast knew already.....but that's another thread entirely.

Sorry to take such a strong stand against you here, but between my "testing" my track dyno, and what I see day in and out......this is a discussion where you aren't going to change my mind.

One other thing.......University of Alberta made their own dyno when competeing in the Clean Snowmobile Challenge and found that rolling resistance is enhanced with a boatload of extra wheels....might not achieve top speeds(who are we here? Midwest forums?) but when it came to coasting tests......a sled with 10+(can't remember the number they ended up with as they were testing weight versus performance) idler wheels far outperformed a sled with the standard 4-6 idlers.

I usually like to find some common ground on topics....but I can show you real world results over and over and over again to prove my point versus yours. I liken our thoughts to that of clutching - 2 totally different aproaches net very similar results.
Again, another thread, another time. You answered the OP's question and I've de-railed the thread far too much already.

Cheers!

To your PS and PPS -

I got a customer who refused to use semi or syn oil in his wife's fancooled sled - because the owners manual calls for nothing but mineral....he also uses semi-syn in his SDI and nothing more....because the manual says....now his E-Tec - he uses Full Syn but only after me reading to him the bulletin from Doo stating to run full Syn cause on his oil tank and in his manual it says semi-syn only....but he runs full synthetic oils in all his vehicles because Dodge says at MINIMUM user Mineral and better quality oils are recommended for engine longevity.....but doesn't believe the same to be true with his bikes and sleds......cause BRP doesn't mention at MINIMUM. They just say...USE THIS.

Despite what OEM's tell us - a lot of us beat to a different drummer.....BRP said they achieved the perfect clutching on the 2010 Summits(Engineers words not mine) and yet I still managed to find 15% more power to the ground than stock clutching.....so much for OEM's knowing what they are talking about eh!
And unlike the masses - just because OEM's go off the deep end with certain aftermarket upgrades(porting a track) doesn't mean they don't work. What next? Are we gonna see steel skis and suspensions filled with idler wheels again because an engineer sells marketing onthe pros vs cons? Deep lugs, scratchers, 2 wheel kits, coil over skids, float skids, plastic skis, extroverts, etc etc are all products of the aftermarket - If we believed everything the OEM's said withblinders on we'd still be running around on 9700 Blizzards and Indy 500's!
 
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IMO you are both correct.....there is too tight AND too loose. You don't want a track balooning too much up front (remember ALL the slack goes to the short area between leaving the drivers and the first paddle hitting the snow). Different skids will cause the track to tighten different amounts as they go through motion of travel....like older M-10's needed a very loose track and it was still banjo tight under some compression, while other skids don't require as much slack. I ran my Cat track looser than my Doo. A little experimenting on a hill with side by side tracks will show you what a particular setup (skid and how it's adjusted) likes.....too tight or too loose will show a drop in track speed from what I have seen.
Another thought.....with a track dyno you have changed things a bit with the track not in firm contact with hyfax.....I'm not sure how that might effect things, if it does at all...???
 
I've seen 1-4hp swing when running a track too tight, and too loose. Another thing to remember with trackdyno's is that if you use the replacement "skid" from dynojet you will see between 7-10% more performance vs. using the skid under the sled and only changing the rear axle. This results in skewed performance on the hill. We scrapped the rails dynojet sold us after about 200 runs(over a week period with testing in between) on our shop Summit X 670(and a few customer sleds) and haven't looked back since(wow 13 years!)

And Brew - hence my disclaimer - every skid is different and since I have NO(ok I have some but very little) experience with the Mtn Tamer skid....maybe that's where they like to run them? I'm not sure.......I do know my M-10 binds hard without enough sag. It likes over 3.5". And ratchets in the right(wrong) conditions if I give it over 4" sag.
My Mtn Master(Ekholm) skid will not ratchet period.......3" sag is all I let it go cause I feel that's all that's needed. Doesn't bind and doesn't ratchet.....might have to gear up some though.....sled had 72mph trackspeed going uphill......and 74mph trackspeed going down the same hill. Haha Think it can pull a few more teeth? hehe

I did have excessive slider wear on my 08 XP though! It was only the righthand side......figured it was cause I was learning the balance point and would ride(mostly) on the RH side down the trail on one ski......record was 23km on one ski averaging about 35mph. But that's not what we are talkin about is it :P
 
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>>If we believed everything the OEM's said withblinders on we'd still be running around on 9700 Blizzards and Indy 500's!<<

And if we believe everything the aftermarket guys say? Good luck with that; plenty of aftermarket companies are out of business because their ideas didn't live up to the hype. And I certainly did NOT say the OEM's are always right, in fact I suggested the OEM spec was too tight for my tastes. At the end of the day I think it pretty obvious that track tension is a variable dependent on the suspension design. When in doubt the two finger rule has never let me down.

Have FUN!

G MAN
 
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